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Charge

Madkoffe

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Aug 11, 2013
Messages
37
Location
Burea
Hi.

My le mans 1000 charge 13,8v when its cold, but when its hot it only charge 13v, is this typical for a broke voltage regulator?
 
Could also be alternator showing signs that death is imminent.
 
Madkoffe said:
Is it normal with 12.4v on idle?

It depends on the state of your battery. The Guzzi charging system's output at idle will barely charge the system if everything is %100 - about 2000 RPM is when it is properly on charge.

The bosch system is despised by some but I think it very reliable once sorted and easy to fix. It is pretty much the same as that fitted to BMWs (careful: the rotor looks exactly the same but has a lower output)

You can find the full output of the system by connecting the rotor terminals directly to the battery and mapping the output vs RPM using a voltmeter. BTW should the regulator die while you are one the road you can do the same thing regulating the voltage by keeping beliw a specific RPM but this is a get you home fix as you can overcharge the battery.

Check brushes and measure rotor resistance as it is easy and takes two seconds but it is likely the regulator.

I would change to an electronic regulator out of hand - they are cheap and much better than the OEM regulator. If you can fit the adjustable one all the better.

I am not keen on the 'All in one' units that combine the regulator and rectifier. They look nice but If they die in east nowhere you are SOL. The rectifier is just a bunch of diodes and can be fixed by Ye Olde Electrics shop with a soldering iron should you break down in East Nowhere. The regulator can be replaced with any suitable regulator from any number of vehicles as available at any car parts store or wired around.

Other than that, replace all bulbs with LEDs where possible and fit a geared starter to reduce load.
 
Ok, thanks!
My battery is new!
I have the bosch system, i looked at the brushes, looks short, but i dont now if they are to short!
image_zps2d311686.jpg

I have order a new voltage regulator anyway!
 
Looks like they are getting worn, I'd just replace for the cost is minimal.

That said as long as they touch the slip ring they should be doing their job

John
 
I have order new brushes and voltage regulator, i think i have read that the Lucas Rita Ignition take much power, if you run short a few times it dont charges so much, can it be so simple?
 
Don't know about the RITA being power hungry, never heard that before but you could well be correct.

I used to run a RITA on an LM 1000 and the system is now on an LM 3 in South Africa and as far as I'm aware neither of us had a problem with it.

As Chris R stated the charging system needs quite a few revs to get it working at an adequate level, so its perfectly feasible that a combination of starting, running the headlight, lower RPM and short runs could well be gradually draining the battery over time.

They perform best if taken on a good long fast run, so either schedule in more fun time ;) or purchase a float charger like an Optimate, CTEK or the like.

My personal preference is the CTEK and I float the battery for a day once a week, but that's because I have an M-Unit on the bike which has a parasitic draw. Every couple of weeks should be more than enough.

Opinions vary on what's best some swear keep it hooked up all the time others just charge it now and again.

Just what I do

John
 
I changed the voltage regulator, now it charge 14,2v when i drive, seems ok!
 
Old Jock said:
D
My personal preference is the CTEK and I float the battery for a day once a week, but that's because I have an M-Unit on the bike which has a parasitic draw. Every couple of weeks should be more than enough.

John

Hi John,

I'm curious about the M-Unit parasitic load you're experiencing. I have M-Units on my Loop (V1) and Ducati 750 GT (V2) and, as it should be, there is no parasitic load on the system when power is off on either bike.

That said, I did have that problem on the Ducati. but tracked it down to the Electrosport ESR510 regulator / rectifier (the type for single phase Ducati systems & also a replacement for single phase Guzzis). It had about a .65A parasitic draw from new. I replaced it and there was still the same problem. I replaced that one with one from Ricks:

http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/10-001

Works great - zero parasitic draw w/ power off. I should add that Electrosport replaced the one ESR510 and then refunded when the second one had the same problem. When ordering from Rick, he said that this seemed to be a common problem with Electrosport units.

I posted the Ducati restoration saga here:

http://forum.bevelheaven.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=4543

George
Vancouver
 
Hi George

To be honest I've never gone to the bother of measuring it, I just new it did have a draw, although checking it now from the manual I see its miniscule, 1mA standby current. For some reason I thought it was more :roll:

Given I'm running an 18Ah battery I don't have to bother and when putting the charger onto the Odyssey it almost immediately goes straight onto float and stays there.

I do it for the other bike mainly the Duc 1098 which does have a definite draw from the immobilizer, although again its not great as that battery only takes seconds usually to float too.

Might move it to once a month and save myself the hassle, thanks for making me get up off my ass and check

John
 
Old Jock said:
Hi George

To be honest I've never gone to the bother of measuring it, I just new it did have a draw, although checking it now from the manual I see its miniscule, 1mA standby current. For some reason I thought it was more :roll:

Given I'm running an 18Ah battery I don't have to bother and when putting the charger onto the Odyssey it almost immediately goes straight onto float and stays there.

I do it for the other bike mainly the Duc 1098 which does have a definite draw from the immobilizer, although again its not great as that battery only takes seconds usually to float too.

Might move it to once a month and save myself the hassle, thanks for making me get up off my ass and check

John

Heh John,

It occurred to me that with the M-Unit, if you have the alarm armed it would probably have a bit of a draw, but I never use it. Oddly, the Guzzi Loop that I have with the V1 will retain its settings for brake light, switch type, etc. if you disconnect the battery, but the V2 retains all but the brake light settings, WTF?

I know that some electronics have a 'keep alive' function to remember settings and you get a bit of a draw from that, but it would seem a bit odd that some M-Unit settings would be remembered and some wouldn't after battery disconnect.

Well, it will just be one on the seven little mysteries. Love that M-Unit though.
 
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