• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Question about clutch adjustment on Breva 750

oceanluvr30

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Jul 18, 2012
Messages
97
Location
Stuart, FL USA
I recently installed a set of risers on my Breva 750, which moved the handlebars up and back towards the rider. However, now, it appears whenever i crank the wheel all the way over to the right, [during a slow start] the clutch does not want to catch and the rpm's increase. I can let the clutch lever out all the way with little friction. I tried to adjust the cable at the lever with very little improvement. The clutch works fine when the wheel is in any other direction and the gears shift smoothly with not too much pull. I bought the risers from Harpers who assured me these risers were for a Breva and there would be no need to adjust the cables. It could be this was always the case when the wheel is locked to the right, and I just never noticed, but would sure like some comments.

BTW, I love the risers, they sure make a difference and I like the more upright riding position.




IMG_2205.jpg
IMG_2206.jpg
 
This isn't uncommon when adding risers or changing bars on any bike. Take a look at the clutch and throttle cable routing. You may be able to gain some slack with better routing of the cables.
 
This isn't uncommon when adding risers or changing bars on any bike. Take a look at the clutch and throttle cable routing. You may be able to gain some slack with better routing of the cables.

John,
Do you think it is because i don't have enough slack? If i loosen the adjuster at the clutch lever end the clutch does not catch until the lever is way out, even when the wheel is straight. When i tighten it, the clutch lever is catches quicker in all positions except when the wheel is full lock to the right.
 
Last edited:
With the wheel straight ahead, the clutch free play should be 3-4mm measured at the lever to housing interface. If moving the bars changes that, then the cable needs to be re-routes as sign did. Also the throttle cable needs better routing as the RPMs increase when you go full right. You should not have to change your free play adjustment on either set of cables if the routing is good. The new owners manuals from Guzzi are terrible, no useful information on how to do anything. See page 26 of this manual. http://guzzitek.org/utilisation/pb/V35_V65Florida_1991Util(GB).pdf
 
With the wheel straight ahead, the clutch free play should be 3-4mm measured at the lever to housing interface. If moving the bars changes that, then the cable needs to be re-routes as sign did. Also the throttle cable needs better routing as the RPMs increase when you go full right. You should not have to change your free play adjustment on either set of cables if the routing is good. The new owners manuals from Guzzi are terrible, no useful information on how to do anything. See page 26 of this manual. http://guzzitek.org/utilisation/pb/V35_V65Florida_1991Util(GB).pdf

Thanks John, as always you are very helpful
 
Ok, I re-routed the clutch cable and it seems to be working fine now. Just needs a bit of minor adjustments. I have not re-routed the throttle cable yet and not sure i need to as it seems to be OK. Thanks guys!
 
Back
Top