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drive shaft noise

M

Matthew Stoker

Just got it firing!
Joined
Aug 28, 2014
Messages
7
Location
Bridgewater, VA
Hello,
I have a 93 California iii. I recently road it 500 miles and now have a different noise that I haven't heard before. Basically when I'm moving and give it throttle there is no abnormal sounds. As soon as I release the throttle I hear a clanking sounding kind of noise. I haven't noticed any degradation in performance. Thanks guys
 
Possible problem with the cardan joint or carrier bearing. This will require removal of the swing arm to confirm. Considering the age of the bike and possible mileage, it wouldn't be unreasonable to replace both. Replacing the carrier bearing can be difficult if you haven't done one before.

Other causes could be the gearbox input or output shaft bearing, but you would see oil loss from the associated shaft seals if either bearing was failing.

Do check this out before you do any more riding. Carrier bearing or cardan failure wouldn't be pretty.
 
In my experience, u-joint induced noise, often felt as sort of a "thrumming" in the RH footpeg, is often caused by the UJ's spigot end that fits into the carrier bearing spinning in the bearing. The UJ spigot end is supposed to be a light press fit in the carrier bearing I.D., but because it is a rather marginal design, this is not an unusual condition. You can check to see if the UJ spigot still has its interference fit by loosening the rear UJ boot clamp then pull the boot forward to expose the UJ. Use a big screw driver to pry against the UJ and see if you can move it forward and aft on the gearbox output spline. If you can do that, then you need to replace both the UJ and the carrier bearing.

I've tried the Locktite product for repairing this, but it didn't last long. You'll need large snap ring pliers to remove the bearing retaining snap ring and then a press to remove & install the bearing. You will also need a locating tool (I made one from a piece of PVC pipe) to hold the new UJ straight while pressing it into the carrier bearing.

GD
 
I pulled the boot last night to take a look at the U-joint after doing more research. I haven't tried the forward aft pull, I'll try that this morning. When I rotate the wheel it takes the UJ a second to catch and one of the arms rotates and hits against the the other y joint. It looked like some metal shavings were in there as part of the UJ yoke was shiney. How expensive/hard to find parts for is this job? Thanks
 
Hey, so it's just the U-joint that is bad. To replace it how difficult is it/what special tools are needed to do the U-joint replacement job. Would I need a jack or a garage to do the work? Is there already a thread somewhere were I can see step by step directions. The local shop wants 700 to fix it. They also said it was 350 for the part itself. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
Try this: .guzzitech.com/forums/threads/flippin-a-u-joint.6917/
but I'm sure if you purchased Richo's tombe (Guzziology) with the savings it will have a good cover of you needs . You could do it on the side of the road if necessary
 
Matthew Stoker said:
Hey, so it's just the U-joint that is bad. To replace it how difficult is it/what special tools are needed to do the U-joint replacement job. Would I need a jack or a garage to do the work? Is there already a thread somewhere were I can see step by step directions. The local shop wants 700 to fix it. They also said it was 350 for the part itself. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Click to expand...


I would just get the cardan and a new boot. If you bike has a center stand, that is all you need to support the bike. Remove the rear wheel, rear drive and swing arm. You should be able to pop the cardan out. Might take a light tap to get the new one to seat in the carrier bearing. On assembly the hardest thing is to get the cardan onto the output shaft of the gearbox, and the swing arm to position correctly in the frame. Center the swing arm by having the swing arm pins exposed an equal distance. I try to get within 0.5 mm
 
Ok Great! I think I'll attempt this one on my own! It looks like all the parts in the pictures for my bikes use the double cardan while when I looked into my bike it only looked like a single joint. My rear wheel is 17" and has disc brakes. Do I have a "special" bike or what part number would fit best?
 
Matthew Stoker said:
Ok Great! I think I'll attempt this one on my own! It looks like all the parts in the pictures for my bikes use the double cardan while when I looked into my bike it only looked like a single joint. My rear wheel is 17" and has disc brakes. Do I have a "special" bike or what part number would fit best?
Click to expand...

Here is the swing arm group for a 1993 California. http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-...california-iii-carbureted-1000-1987-1995.html

For some reason the link for the FI model doesn't give the correct group, but it is the same parts for FI and carb bikes.
 
Nice! Mine is carbureted. Should I but any new seals/o-rings/clips as well. Sorry about all these questions, just want to make sure I order all the necessary parts so I don't start the project and have it half finished waiting for something stupid.
 
You could replace the gearbox output seal while the swing arm is off, but that requires special tools. Also there is a little steel ball under the drive ring for the speedometer cable that if you aren't careful can disappear on you. My suggestion is to just do the carden joint.
 
Matthew Stoker said:
Hey, so it's just the U-joint that is bad. To replace it how difficult is it/what special tools are needed to do the U-joint replacement job. Would I need a jack or a garage to do the work? Is there already a thread somewhere were I can see step by step directions. The local shop wants 700 to fix it. They also said it was 350 for the part itself. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Click to expand...

John Chicoine in MA may be able to rebuild the u-joint.

U-joint rebuilds, all Loopframe, Tonti and later models using
20x44, 22x49 or 22x50 crosses. Professionally done using new
crosses imported from Europe. $140 including shipping. John P.
Chicoine, Box 481, Russell, Massachusetts 01071. Cell: 413-454-
8002. Email: jchicoine@verizon.net
 
I think I'll be checking mine soon, I've noticed there seems to be some backlash in the drive as I roll the bike backwards and forwards plus with over 55,000 miles on the clock and an unknown history it would be a wise move I think.
 
I just did the Cardan joint. Here is what it looked like once I got it out next to the new part going in. thanks for the help. I saved about 450 dollars doing it on my own. That guzziology book will be really helpful in the future!
 

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