• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Griso Fuel Cap leak

Brent S

Just got it firing!
Joined
Oct 18, 2014
Messages
21
Location
Melbourne
Hi all.

Had the 2014 Griso in for its first service recently, and as part of that I had the fuel tank breather tubes checked, as I was getting pressurisation in the tank. Now there's no pressure build up, but I can smell fuel anytime the bike is stopped. Checked the cap and it's definitely coming from there, like the rubber seal isn't sealing properly. Can see the wet fuel having bypassed the seal. Not leaking anywhere else. Definitely the fuel cap seal.

Not sure whether it was mere coincidence that this has started immediately after the service guys lifted the tank off to check the breather pipes, but it seems weird. Have checked the seal for dust, dirt or damage and it's all clean, as you'd expect for a 6 week old bike.

Any ideas? Fix? Thanks.

Brent.
 
Prime suspect is kinked / trapped /squashed breather pipes. It's very easy to get it wrong when putting the tank back on. Everything looks fine as you lower the tank back into place but as the pipes are quite soft & flexible they don't always push thru' the space and bend instead. I had exactly this problem. It was most evident when I filled the tank brim full with a hot engine = the fuel expanded with the engine heat and the 'leak' was plain to see. I guess with a partially filled tank you would get the smell without any liquid evidence. With care and a bit of fiddling I managed to re-route / straighten the breathers without completely removing the tank again.
 
Will, you make a good point, but the tank is now 'breathing' fine, as there's no pressure in it when I open the cap. Previously, there'd be a big woosh of pressure when I opened the cap, so it was certainly sealing very well before (i.e. when the breather pipe was blocked). So, I've assumed that the breather is now OK. Its just that the rubber seal around the cap appears to have failed, or at least its not sealing as it was before. That's the weird thing.
 
Will, you make a good point, but the tank is now 'breathing' fine, as there's no pressure in it when I open the cap. Previously, there'd be a big woosh of pressure when I opened the cap, so it was certainly sealing very well before (i.e. when the breather pipe was blocked). So, I've assumed that the breather is now OK. Its just that the rubber seal around the cap appears to have failed, or at least its not sealing as it was before. That's the weird thing.

When I had the problem with the breathers there was no "woosh" or pressurizing of the tank - possibly because the pipes were not creating a complete air lock. I'd still consider it worth checking them again. Otherwise....when the dealer had the tank off did they remove the filler cap & disturb the seal / gasket? I think in the early days of Griso production there was a problem with the seal not always being installed correctly = the breather hole was not aligned with the breather pipe correctly. Maybe if they had it apart they didn't put it back right?
 
Back
Top