• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Search results for query: *

  1. N

    V7 Starter switch fail - No Power - Power Loss

    My ignition switch only had those 2 wires. The first pic I posted was from this thread, as I had not opened up my switch yet. It’s much easier than I initially expected. I pushed the bars to the right to full lock, then the bottom of the switch is easily accessed.
  2. N

    V7 Starter switch fail - No Power - Power Loss

    I’ve just experienced this issue as well on my 2013 v7, at 24k. The power would go out to the instrument panel, the engine would die and I would have to restart. I was wiggling wire bundles to recreate the symptoms and the culprit was for the key switch assembly. I pulled the plastic bottom...
  3. N

    Turn signal conundrum

    I agree; it’s pretty frustrating. All 4 behave the same, though, so I don’t think it’s an internal fault, just a cheaply made Chinese component. I also removed the battery tray and cleaned up the contact areas and made sure there was metal to metal contact at all connections. There was a lot...
  4. N

    Turn signal conundrum

    Well I found the main issue with the signals, and it’s the signals themselves. The threaded stalks do not tolerate grounding to the bike, and heat up VERY quickly. The signals work fine when grounded via the integral grounding wires. Rather than buy a different style, I’m just going to...
  5. N

    Turn signal conundrum

    So far 3 of 15 wires in the main harness don’t match the colors listed in the schematics... but they look original. The mess really starts in the harness between the 15-pin and the 12-pin connections. One of the turn signal wires had a quick-splice going to a ground point. Yuck.
  6. N

    Turn signal conundrum

    The flasher is working, but not consistently. It’s rated for 25 amps so I think that is more than enough for a couple 21W signals. I’m going to start troubleshooting the ground fault today. As ugly as the wiring is I’m sure to find something.
  7. N

    Turn signal conundrum

    Thanks all for the info so far. The flashing unit was the generic version of the OEM replacement sent from Harper’s. The original, and now new signals are 21W each. I’ll have to check for the 42W flasher.
  8. N

    Turn signal conundrum

    I believe I have a grounding(earth) fault somewhere. I changed the grounding locations on both signals and now they work. Also, I’m getting about 300 millivolts across the positive and ground connections for the signals, with the switch off. Shouldn’t it be closer to zero? Also, the front...
  9. N

    Turn signal conundrum

    Working out the problems in the electrics on my ‘75 850t. One of the PO’s removed all the turn signals and bastardized the associated wiring in the process (along with starter, horn, and brake light wiring). Everything worked as wired, it just wasn’t technically accurate, and the provisions for...
  10. N

    Coil Really Hot

    Still running them. I replaced the plug wires and so far everything seems fine.
  11. N

    XMSN output oil seal stuck

    Yes, bent tip needle nose or long nose pliers. After a short trip to the search engine, I realize that they don’t have a common nomenclature. It seems to change depending on manufacturer. Either way, they worked. I think most seal tools would get the job done, aside from the anchor type, but...
  12. N

    XMSN output oil seal stuck

    Harbor freight heat gun... check. Offset pliers... check. Stuck seal... out in 3 minutes!
  13. N

    XMSN output oil seal stuck

    Thank you, John. Yep, retaining nut, speedo drive, and drive ball are removed. I don’t have a heat gun, but I suppose I could try carefully and slowly with a bbq lighter. I could always use an offset plier; better pick one of those up. That will probably give the best bite on the material.
  14. N

    XMSN output oil seal stuck

    This is my last, and longest lasting oil leak to correct before the bike goes back together to ride. The PO used a non-standard seal in this spot. It is metallic, thin, and didn’t actually seal at all against the speedo drive. There isn’t any seal material, it’s just a flat washer-like piece...
  15. N

    Tach Needle spins in circles

    After “carefully” removing the top bezel and glass (now cracked... oops) I was able to inspect the guts. The copper return/resistance spring for the needle was broken and bird-nested around the needle shaft.
  16. N

    Coil Really Hot

    That makes sense why the other coil wasn’t also hot. I checked the resistance and got 3.3 ohms. They’re the original coils, so they’re probably due for replacement anyway.
  17. N

    Coil Really Hot

    I decided to post this here rather than the vintage section because I assume ignition coils are pretty widespread. The bike is a ‘75 850T. I noticed that with the ignition turned on with the key, engine not running, that the coil for the right cylinder is getting very hot, and heating up the...
  18. N

    Tach Needle spins in circles

    I’m reviving a 1975 850T after a short 8 year storage period. I’m troubleshooting several issues, but my skills/knowledge only take me so far (Haynes manual just arrived). Without throwing money and a bucket of new parts at it, I can’t figure out the tachometer. The needle rotates clockwise 360...
Back
Top