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'13-15 V7 Over-charging? PLEASE READ

Discussion in 'V7/V85/V9 Chat & Tech' started by GT-Rx®, Feb 16, 2016.

  1. Rocksteady

    Rocksteady Just got it firing!

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    Cool, looks like you have a V7 Racer as well? Did the plugs fit or did you have to alter/solder them? Did you need to buy or make a bracket to attach it to the bike?
    Thanks!
     
  2. Stradagene

    Stradagene Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Famiglia

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    The plugs do fit, but it is not possible to remove them from the stock unit, so yes I had to solder them on.
    And the mounting points do not match up with the stock mounting points, so I made an aluminum bracket for mounting. That might have been a bit overkill just to mount, but I was happy with the result.
     
  3. Stamatios

    Stamatios Just got it firing!

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    Hello everyone

    asking this for a friend in despair.
    He bought an new 2016 V7 Racer with the extended warranty and he is on his third stator.
    So far Guzzi has stood up to the warranty and changed 2 of them (first at 17.000 km, second and 24.000 km).
    For this third one he still got no explanation of what or how this happens and his warranty expires in 4 months.
    I would really appreciate any feedback or advice as I am a V7/2 owner myself and at 19.500 km (with no extended warranty I am feeling a little unsafe about what the future will bring me.

    I am thinking that the issue may be somewhere else and not on the stator itself that three times was “fried”.

    best regards and thank you in advance
     
  4. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    What is the voltage output when running?
     
  5. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Stator or voltage regulator? I've merged this thread with this well covered topic. Please read from the beginning.
     
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  6. Stamatios

    Stamatios Just got it firing!

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    13 to 14.5 max. There seems to be no issue there.
     
  7. Stamatios

    Stamatios Just got it firing!

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    Thanks.
     
  8. Dinsdale Piranha

    Dinsdale Piranha Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    YES!

    During my just completed 13,000Km soirée around SE Oz my battery failed,due (yes you guessed it) to overcharging. Ran all the tests and sure enough, 15.6V at idle and >16V at >3,000rpm. I said elsewhere in this thread that I have a FH020AA for this bike, but alas and alac, I was lazy. I s'pose I'll install now that the horse has bolted.

    Point of interested: There are very few bikes out there for which either a FH020AA or an SH847 is not ideal.
     
  9. Ryan Tabata

    Ryan Tabata Just got it firing!

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    I’ve searched this reasonably long forum to find somebody who made a silly mistake like I did... so far, I’m that special

    I have a 2013 V7 Stone according to a parts catalog by VIN. That catalog lists my part number as 883878, a six wire, single phase RR. My bike is a 2014 on my registration for whatever reason and I bought the part for the 2014, it’s 2D000043, a seven wire, three phase rectifier. Is this a suitable RR, even though they have different phases? The bolt holes are perfectly aligned.

    Should I order the one from GuzziTech? If so, which one? I see that there is a ‘new’ one that apretarte to also have seven wires and another one that appears to have six wires. I’d like to try to avoid ruining my battery since the unit that just died was putting out 15.5 VDC at idle.
     
  10. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    First, congrats on the V7 and welcome to the GT Forum. Hope you'll add your info to the Registry here; https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/v7-registry-picture-thread-add-your-bike.9108/

    So the problem lies in that the stock parts are paperweights, new or not. You can simply run two of the three yellow wires if you care to wire the pugs yourself, but one of the upgraded versions I sell on the STORE above is ideal. Most places won't take returns on electrical components, so try what you have if you can't return it. Just monitor voltage closely.
     
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  11. Ryan Tabata

    Ryan Tabata Just got it firing!

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    Thanks! I’ll add my info soon! This is really my first time adding anything to the forums, but I’ve used them to troubleshoot the other common problems. The fuel filter being one and the kickstand sensor being the other.

    when you say one of the ones from GuzziTech, which one would you choose for my bike? The new three phase, or the other single phase? Hopefully I can make the cut off for free shipping too!
     
  12. vagrant

    vagrant High Miler GT Contributor

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  13. JeffinSF

    JeffinSF Just got it firing!

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  14. Dinsdale Piranha

    Dinsdale Piranha Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Virtually all automotive r/r have a 3 terminal plug and a 2 terminal plug. These are sometimes moulded into 1 5 terminal plug. The 3 plug is where the yellow wires directly from your stator connect. This is the AC output from your stator / input into your r/r. There is no special sequence for connecting these 3 yellow wires to the 3 terminals. My V7iii has a single phase stator, hence only 2 yellow wires. Connect them to any 2 terminals in the 3 terminal socket.

    The other (the 2 terminal plug) is for the regulated DC output from your r/r to your battery. It is absolutely polar. DON'T connect them the wrong way around. It's best to run these directly to your battery terminals via about a 30 amp fuse.

    This the 21st century! The OEM Guzzi r/r is barely 20th century tech - and poorly executed at that. It's Junk! Not even heavy enough for a paper weight. Anything less than a MOSFET r/r is wasted time and money. The Shindengen FH020AA is hard to beat - in fact it's the only one I'll use.

    Modern series r/r are good too, though I've found that they don't really like a variable input sometimes. The Shindengen SH847 is an excellent choice if you must have a series r/r. Series r/r will run your stator cooler, which is almost essential if you're racing, but, imo, is not worth it on a streetie - they're quite a bit more expensive.

    Shindengen is THE name in automotive rectifier/regulators. They're pretty easy to retro-fit, on a V7 at least, as others have demonstrated in this thread.

    Anyone who says that any output voltage above 14.4V is normal is just plain WRONG! You'll probably get way with 14.5V at a pinch without battery damage. The Shindengen FH020AA will output a rock steady 14.4V from idle through to forever. Non-MOSFET r/r will normally run really hot - too hot to touch - that's normal. A MOSFET r/r will run cool to the touch. A series r/r will run your alternator cooler.

    This bloke sells really good kits roadstercycle.com - Todd doesn't sell anything like him - but he should.

    Phew!!
     
  15. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Choose any two of the three and wire into your stock plug.
     
  16. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    The ESR versions I sell are MOSFET and are plug and play. I tried to work with the site you linked, and he was uncooperative saying "why should I discount to you when I can simply sell direct to your customers at retail."
     
  17. Dinsdale Piranha

    Dinsdale Piranha Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Sorry for that Todd. The last time this topic came up you told me that none of yours were MOSFET. Really glad to see that you've added a MOSFET r/r to your repertoire. As for the bloke at Roadstercycle, obviously, not being a dealer I had no problems having him accept my money - his loss!

    So for the rest of the forum, if you're having (over)charging problems, buy an ESR r/r from Todd. In fact, just buy one anyway, coz the junk thing on there now will cost more dearly in the long run.

    EDIT: Todd, I just went to your shop and checked out your ESR r/r. You say nothing about MOSFETs. It's that technology which makes superior. Nobody would know that they're buying anything better than the OEM junk.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2020 at 7:39 AM

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