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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

I've noticed my V7 will over charge, so I've been running with the high beam on all the time. Looks as if that is taking care of it.
Pull and check your headlight bulb connection. It will melt. I highly recommend fixing the problem before it kills the cam sensor, battery and ultimately the ECU. Just be forewarned as I've repaired many now.
 
Will diagnostics show idle and running voltage, or is a voltmeter mandatory? Want to check this out before doing potential damage. I have over 9k miles on the bike. Switched to an Anti-G Lith probably around 4k miles or so ago.
 
I get 5 - 7 years out of my AGM batteries as well. But I have no doubt over-charging them will shorten that life. For me the only batteries I seem to get good life out of are AGM batteries. I do not really take great care of them, either.

I would think the diagnostic software would only show current voltage. If the bike is idling it would show idle voltage, if you rev the motor up it would show that voltage. But if the motor is not running it would only show battery voltage. I could be wrong, but that is the way diag software I have used works.
 
Will diagnostics show idle and running voltage, or is a voltmeter mandatory?
As Mike stated above, the Diagnostic Tools will show a little low vs. what it is at the battery, but it will be close enough. Be sure to check as the Lith-I will not tolerate over 14.4 as it will swell/quit/be rendered useless in short order.
 
I get 5 - 7 years out of my AGM batteries as well
Not directed at you Mike, but worthy of a post here again, as I've posted this many times. I've had a great deal of bikes over the last 5 years in my shop here, and based on both on my observations and data supplied to me by in-the-know industry guys, newer AGMs just won't last that long. Older AGMs were much better because of older "allowable lead content" laws when they were produced.
I've replaced a dozen or so in the last few years on bikes newer then even 2013 on all models, including all of my personal 8Vs.
 
Not directed at you Mike, but worthy of a post here again, as I've posted this many times. I've had a great deal of bikes over the last 5 years in my shop here, and based on both on my observations and data supplied to me by in-the-know industry guys, newer AGMs just won't last that long. Older AGMs were much better because of older "allowable lead content" laws when they were produced.
I've replaced a dozen or so in the last few years on bikes newer then even 2013 on all models, including all of my personal 8Vs.
I have heard your experiences on this in the past, but I am simply relaying my experiences as well. I have a fair number of bikes using a fair number of batteries. Whenever I buy a non-AGM battery I don't get very long service from it. But when I buy AGM batteries I usually get a long service life from it. One of my AGM batteries I had replaced with another smaller AGM battery. It has lasted a long time even though it is not even in service anymore. I charge it every now and then with a simple charger. Occasionally when I need a jump or back up battery I put it in use. It always works. I also have newer AGM batteries that also keep chugging along. The newest one I bought about 9 months ago, but I have not actually put it in service because I realized that I already had an AGM battery that was not in use that would fit the Lario (close enough on size). So I popped the older one in (maybe 4 years old) and off I went. I had changed that battery right before we went on a long tour as I did not want to be left stranded. I assume I will pull the unused one out of the box at some point and throw it in a different bike, and I am pretty sure it will work just fine. That said, I do not think all AGM batteries, or all batteries in general, are created equal. I have found some brands are great, some are hit or miss, and some are not worth shit. I don't want to start a brand war, I just want to point out that some brands are better than others.

Oh, and I think the best way to look at the battery reading in diagnostics is it is showing you the voltage at the ECU, not the voltage at the battery. Due to wire resistance the voltage at the ECU is usually lower than it is directly at the battery. But for charging the battery what really counts is what the voltage reading at the battery is.
 
Pull and check your headlight bulb connection. It will melt. I highly recommend fixing the problem before it kills the cam sensor, battery and ultimately the ECU. Just be forewarned as I've repaired many now.

Just got back from taking the bike to the shop. It was pulling 16.2 volts at 3,000 rpm's and 15.8 at idle. Good thing I still have some warranty left.
 
Good idea Pokey,

It had to damage the battery somewhat. I'll ask for a replacement.

Have not had issue with it at all, but down the road, who knows.

Darn good I read this post, knew it was charging high, didn't know it was this bad gheeeeeez..
 
I edited the first post of this thread to put some of my thoughts down. Worth a read.
 
Just checked my idle voltage, 15.5v, immediately ordered a V7II regulator and a new battery, will the GT-RX reflash tool read error codes to check the cam sensor and ecu?
 
Was reading on another forum some other guy who is running heated gear on his bike is also showing 15 plus volts at idle. Then he complains he can't run heated gear or something like that.

I think a void exists in these shops. My shop is acting like deer staring into the lights over here, AGAIN as always. They didn't leave me feeling totally confident yesterday when I drop the bike off. Lot of rolling eyes and blank looks, telling me this is the first bike to come in with this issue. They were more interested in my dog then the bike.

Tod..... can you do me a favor and call Elk Grove Power Sports, 916-714-7223 and talk to the Maintenance supervisor and explain this to him? The reference on the bike is the White 2013 with the racer seat and Napoleon bar ends.
 
Sorry, simply don't have the time. Feel free to link them to this thread.

Mr Tod,

I'll link them to the thread, thanks much for the input and hope you make up that kit cause this stock electrical system B lacking.

The manager by the way In Elk Grove is aware of you and your work with these bikes since I've spoken very highly of you up here.
 
I just checked my 3 week old 2015 V7 with 1400 miles on it. 17.0 at idle and 17.4 at 3-4000 RPM. just great! call in to selling dealer.
I don't know if it did this from the start but when the key is turned on it shows like a capital A without the cross line then A I N and what looks like a capital E without the top cross line. I see nothing like this in the code page provided here.
 
Thanks Todd, and company. Gotta hook mine up to the Diag and see what's up as I can't remember what it was reading last time, but I think idle was in a good range. We shall see.

On a side note, was 64 degrees today in Baltimore! Had been about two months or so since my last ride.
 
key is turned on it shows like a capital A without the cross line then A I N
That's the Maintenance warning, meaning service. It sounds like it wasn't reset at the 600 mile service, which I would ask if they re-torqued the heads, else they'll leak.
17 at idle is one of the highest I've ever seen/heard, get that fixed ASAP. I personally wouldn't run it until fixed.
 
Is this about the time that maybe we need a re-call from GUZZI? This is getting ridiculous. Then the venting issues with oil usage and spitting oil and water into the injectors...... WTF!!!
 
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