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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

I would say no. There is not enough room to trim the wires stagger the joints solder crimp and shrink wrap it.
It's fiddly work but not difficult.
It took me 4 hours because I kept changing my mind on how to mount it and what size wire to use on the output side: I used10 ga.
I have an unused mounting plate that will work if you don't have crash bars on your bike.
The worst part is that my local radio shack closed so I couldn't get the connectors I wanted. I used hardware store connectors and stripped off the plastic sleeves and shrink wrapped the joints
 
shrink wrapping might not need to be done in this instance. I might try to tackle it without having to remove the harness.
 
From what I recall, I was able to get to the 2 connectors without removing the tank. Looking at the connectors now, there's easy open access. If you unbolt the VR itself, you have even more access.
 
Those OEM connectors are difficult to locate, Todd, as you pointed out. I searched for several hours, concentrating on European electronics suppliers but no luck. I suspect they are made for Guzzi, to Guzzi specs and are not an off the shelf product.
 
hose OEM connectors are difficult to locate, Todd, as you pointed out. I searched for several hours, concentrating on European electronics suppliers but no luck. I suspect they are made for Guzzi, to Guzzi specs and are not an off the shelf product.
Yes, thanks for looking. Think you'd have to look to the Middle East to find them.
 
You can buy electrical connections at any auto part store that the wires push into and are as formidable as anything OEM.

I've use them on sailboats and never had an issue even with a salt environment. My navigation/radar/radio equipment in some way always end up jury rigged. Never have had an issue one with those plugs. End up knock down once in a storm and everything came back on line without an issue. If it can take that it can go through a rain storm on a bike.

You can also find good canon plugs that they use in aviation, although those are very expensive, but totally weather proof. The thing good about those they use a screw locking ring. I often use those for my back up/primary GPS units.
 
Waterproof heat shrink butt connectors are available to make neat splices so you can reuse your stock plugs
I got mine from Amazon but many marine supply shops have them.
Use10ga wire from the VR and splice the red wire to both of the bike's red white wires. 10ga black to both green wires.
Or run 10ga to both battery terminals and let the current back feed through the stock harness
Just Remember to reconnect the stock wires to the battery
 
Waterproof heat shrink butt connectors are available to make neat splices so you can reuse your stock plugs
I got mine from Amazon but many marine supply shops have them.
Use10ga wire from the VR and splice the red wire to both of the bike's red white wires. 10ga black to both green wires.
Or run 10ga to both battery terminals and let the current back feed through the stock harness
Just Remember to reconnect the stock wires to the battery

I'm just snipping off the wires at the old VR and crimping/soldering the terminals on from the Shindengen kit and popping them in the new plugs. I'm not doing the bypass to the battery. Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see where I'll need to have shrink wrap butt connectors.
 
The shrink wrap connectors make a neat waterproof connection
Or you can shrink wrap regular connectors as you will probably be encasing the wires in a sheath or tubing anyway
 
OK, update on my early delivery 2013 V7 Stone:

OK, REAL TEST (running voltage monitor) to follow later in this post.

BUT, last night/this morning I had the first indication that all might not be right.


It occurred to me when thinking about this last night that over the past few years that the V7 has been in the fleet that during the winter months when I rotate a Battery Tender through the bikes (I do that once a month, to each bike for a few hours or a day) that the V7 has always been the slowest to change from RED to flashing Green to solid Green.

I didn't think much of it because at first it wasn't far off from the Sportster, which in retrospect might have been a red flag since the Sportster battery was ALREADY 6 years old the day I brought the V7 home for the first time. By the time I noticed this similarity I think it was 8 years old!

So last night I go out to plug the charger in (changing of the month means it's time again, for reference the "nice" bikes - meaning the Duc and Goose - have been asleep since the end of Nov/beg of Dec when they salted the roads for the first time).

Last night I plugged the Battery Tender into the Goose and waited a few minutes, still RED, ok, I'll check back.

I checked an hour later, STILL RED - UH OHHH.

I checked 2 hours later, STILL RED - OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH.

I checked this morning - OK, it's GREEN.

I unplug the tender from the V7 and plug it into the 2 year older, couple of thousand less miles Ducati that gets ridden less often but which was charged within hours of the last time the V7 was charged AND - FLASHING GREEN BEFORE I EVEN GET TO THE GARAGE DOOR.


So that was my first indication that the battery in the V7 is NOT as healthy as the 2 year older battery in the Ducati.

At that point I kinda knew what I was going to find when I had a chance to test it this afternoon.

OK, so a cold start this afternoon gave me 15.4 Volts from 1-4k rpm.

I figured I've had it for years and it's probably always done this, so I took it for a ride (to drain the fuel a bit, I figure it's probably easier to pull the tank to do this anyway, and I might as well replace that fuel filter now if that's the case).

When I got back it was reading 12.8 volts at idle, but still 15.4 anywhere above that.

I need a voltage regulator, and I'm starting to believe I won't be alone.

My little bro Jay (JAS67 on WG) and Cam (from WG) are gonna test there's this week, but our assumption is that we'll be order 4 voltage regulators by next week.

Todd any plans (I think we'd be willing to wait a few weeks) or should we source it and handle it ourselves?
 
Last edited:
OK, update on my early delivery 2013 V7 Stone:

OK, REAL TEST (running voltage monitor) to follow later in this post.

BUT, last night/this morning I had the first indication that all might not be right.


It occurred to me when thinking about this last night that over the past few years that the V7 has been in the fleet that during the winter months when I rotate a Battery Tender through the bikes (I do that once a month, to each bike for a few hours or a day) that the V7 has always been the slowest to change from RED to flashing Green to solid Green.

I didn't think much of it because at first it wasn't far off from the Sportster, which in retrospect might have been a red flag since the Sportster battery was ALREADY 6 years old the day I brought the V7 home for the first time. By the time I noticed this similarity I think it was 8 years old!

Last night I plugged the Battery Tender into the Goose and waited a few minutes, still RED, ok, I'll check back.

I checked an hour later, STILL RED - UH OHHH.

I checked 2 hours later, STILL RED - OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH.

I checked this morning - OK, it's GREEN.

I unplug the tender from the V7 and plug it into the 2 year older, couple of thousand less miles Ducati that gets ridden less often but which was charged within hours of the last time the V7 was charged AND - FLASHING GREEN BEFORE I EVEN GET TO THE GARAGE DOOR.


So that was my first indication that the battery in the V7 is NOT as healthy as the 2 year older battery in the Ducati.

At that point I kinda knew what I was going to find when I had a chance to test it this afternoon.

OK, so a cold start this afternoon gave me 15.4 Volts from 1-4k rpm.

I figured I've had it for years and it's probably always done this, so I took it for a ride (to drain the fuel a bit, I figure it's probably easier to pull the tank to do this anyway, and I might as well replace that fuel filter now if that's the case).

When I got back it was reading 12.8 volts at idle, but still 15.4 anywhere above that.

I need a voltage regulator, and I'm starting to believe I won't be alone.

My little bro Jay (JAS67 on WG) and Cam (from WG) are gonna test there's this week, but our assumption is that we'll be order 4 voltage regulators by next week.

Todd any plans (I think we'd be willing to wait a few weeks) or should we source it and handle it ourselves?

let us know what the filter looks like too. I have no desire to fix a filter on the 2015 for a few years.
ps. tank can be slid back about 3" and you can get into the neck easily with a hook to pull out the connectors.
 
BOTH of Jay's V7s tested out of range (15.3 and 15.5 respectively IIRC).

ONE of them is still under warranty and he's toying with getting a replacement OEM one just to see out of the box what happens. But he's also toying with just replacing both with a better one anyway. We should know more buy the weekend.

Cam can't test his till the weekend anyway. So we'll report back.
 
I changed the fuel filter in my V7this past weekend. 2 years old 3700 miles
The plastic is yellowed and swollen Probably would have failed this year
 
I changed the fuel filter in my V7this past weekend. 2 years old 3700 miles
The plastic is yellowed and swollen Probably would have failed this year

I had the dealer do mine at 3000 miles. Also yellowed, swollen and squishy.
 
I did, see above. It took replacement of the voltage regulator, cam sensor, battery and ECU/Throttle Body... All out of pocket for the owner.
Ok, I've read a lot of these posts so here is my 2 cents. 2013 V7 4600 miles original battery. Tested the output at idle 15,25 volts, reved to 2000rpm and voltage drops to 14.2,14.3. Does mean it's ok or is there still a problem?

So the V7II voltage regulator is the suggested replacement. Is it direct replacement (plug and Play). Do you stock those? If so how much are they? thanks
 
Ok, I've read a lot of these posts so here is my 2 cents. 2013 V7 4600 miles original battery. Tested the output at idle 15,25 volts, reved to 2000rpm and voltage drops to 14.2,14.3. Does mean it's ok or is there still a problem?

Redo the test.

If it really stays at 14.2-14.3 above idle you're good.

But it's a weird result.
 
Tested the output at idle 15,25 volts, reved to 2000rpm and voltage drops to 14.2,14.3. Does mean it's ok or is there still a problem?
So the V7II voltage regulator is the suggested replacement. Is it direct replacement (plug and Play). Do you stock those? If so how much are they? thanks
Larry, sometimes cold start will produce a high voltage. How old is the battery? My take on this is that the battery is on it's way out from abuse. What's the resting overnight voltage without charging it? Do you have a load tester?

I was on my way to offer a plug and play kit, but the DIY'ers here made me stop.
 
Replaced that fuel filter it was soft last year.

Still waiting for the shop to cal for me to pick up the bike after they replace the new VR.
 
Hey Todd, the WI Racer Team...

Do you have hats?

1297725856032_ORIGINAL.jpg
 
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