• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Mattwds5

Just got it firing!
Joined
Feb 4, 2018
Messages
3
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Hello... I was recently given my grandfathers 1000SP... It had a bad battery and when it died on me one day, I ignorantly tried to jump the bike with my wifes car and something started to smoke when I tried to start it (still kicking myself). I pushed it home, got a new battery and now it won't start. I noticed what looked like a burnt part on the rectifier and have since replaced that but still no luck. The bike will turn over, all lights work and such, but it doesn't look like I am getting any spark from the spark plug. I appreciate any input in advance.
 
I've jumped both my T3 and LMIII off a 12v battery charger (with a jump start cycle) with no problems. I've had more problems with corroded and loose ground wires then anything else. Hopefully something simple.
 
I've jumped both my T3 and LMIII off a 12v battery charger (with a jump start cycle) with no problems. I've had more problems with corroded and loose ground wires then anything else. Hopefully something simple.


I'm hoping its something simple but I haven't been able to see anything other than what looked like the burnt rectifier. Something on the bike immediately started smoking when I jumped it with my wife car and the cheap cables clamps burned off. I have fairly limited knowledge with electrical components so I'm not sure exactly what happened there.
 
There is a schematic for your bike in the downloads section. Check to see if you are getting voltage to the coils ( key on and points must be open to read voltage there). If not, start tracing the power circuit. Wouldn't hurt to check all your fuses, but the ignition circuit is not fused if I remember correctly. You should still start with a fried rectifier, you just won't charge the battery when running.
 
Sounds like you had the polarity wrong, positive from the car goes to the positive on the bike battery, better check the wife's car, could have damaged the alternator, then you'll be in trouble.
Kev
Assuming the bike battery was discharged, it's unlikely to have affected the car electrics. Well lets hope so anyway.
 
Car is fine. This happened about a month ago. I have replaced the rectifier already. I appreciate all the replies. Will be trying what John recommended this week and will post updates.
 
Always start with the fuses first.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cse
Matt, here's some electrical issues I experienced with my Lemans III:

"The electrical issue had me stumped. It would turn over fine until everything would go blank. No warning lights or anything with the key turned on. Completely dead. The fuse bus only had battery voltage to the bottom two fuses (12.7vdc). After 30 minutes it would crank then nothing. I ended up cleaning all of the terminals I could access and then cutting off the damaged end of the main wire from battery to the rectifier and replacing it. It seems to be ok now but I'm waiting on the fuel tank parts to get it running again. I think maybe there was too much resistance in the wire and it was heating up. Electricity is a mystery to me."

Then this:

" The electrical issue turned out to be a lose ground connection on the battery cable where it attaches to the frame. It was pretty much hidden from view but the starts are fast now without further problems."

So I was never really sure which it was but if there is internal corrosion in the wires, where you can't see it, you'll have a lot of resistance. The wire was always hot to the touch after cranking. You can always run a jumper wire to see if the wire may be cooked. I haven't had any problems since. I had even replaced the battery thinking it was bad.
 
Kicks over but no spark? Sounds like the dizzy or starter solenoid may be fried. Same thing happened to my very first car thanks to a dodgy killswitch. Fried dizzy. Not sure if that model uses a dizzy or a pair of solenoids like my Nevada, but get that part checked. Could also be the spark leads, so i suggest checking them first
 
Kicks over but no spark? Sounds like the dizzy or starter solenoid may be fried. Same thing happened to my very first car thanks to a dodgy killswitch. Fried dizzy. Not sure if that model uses a dizzy or a pair of solenoids like my Nevada, but get that part checked. Could also be the spark leads, so i suggest checking them first

Starter solenoid is not part of the ignition circuit. If the bike turns over the solenoid is functioning.
 
Starter solenoid is not part of the ignition circuit. If the bike turns over the solenoid is functioning.
Coils, then. Perhaps i got my terminology wrong. I've seen this kind of thing happen with cars. The parts opposite the spark end of the leads. I do hope, for his sake, it's not them. They're expensive no matter what you got
 
Has it got standard points ignition? If so, generic 3.5 ohm coils are not expensive.

If it has an aftermarket ignition system, then that might be your problem.
 
We haven't heard from the original poster for 6 days. I suggest we wait to hear from him before we make any more guesses as to his problem. He needs to get some troubleshooting done and report back before anything meaningful can be said.
 
I dont know if the 1000SP it is like that but some Guzzis you need to close the side stand or the engine will turn but it wont spark..
 
Back
Top