1983 Le Mans III

[DanPez]

I'm going to be a proud owner of a bouncing baby Le Mans III .... cigars are on order! :lol:
Actually I’ve found myself a winter project.
Purchase it from the second owner who had it 10 years ….picking it up this weekend by truck because it’s not plated and because its been stored for a while.

The bike is in excellent condition, for an 83! Was repainted ….powder coated frame, suspension very hard in the rear, air shocks in the front, brakes are in good condition, It has 67,000km and the valves, piston rings, were redone 20,000 km ago by Harper Moto Guzzi. An external oil filter pan conversion was done and he’s got plenty of spare parts (Original seat, gaskets, o-rings, seals, etc) to part with.

The front brake light switch has to be replaced and the (horn, flasher) control has to be changed along with the kill switch control assembly.
Needs new tires …. What would you recommend?


Drove it around the block ……man it’s different from the Stelvio.
(Café Racer) This bike is meant to lean when turning …..runs great but seems a little sluggish.
The throttle grip sticks slightly and doesn’t snap back (is this normal?)…..don’t know if it’s the rubber grip rubbing or the carburetor cables needs greasing but never the less the engine runs smooth and revs nicely.



I would need some advice on the maintenance required at 67,000km.
I'm looking for a complete check list of things to do before putting it on the road ..... (Safety inspection is required)

 

[Rafael]

Wow Dan, What a beauty! Congrats. My buddy had put on Dunlap GT 501's on his LMs III before he sold it. We didn't get to wear them out but they handled fine. Avon no longer makes the supervenom for those rims- formerly my favorites. Stay away from Avon's Roadrunners. They're okay but dance around on rain grooves.

My guess is that the sluggishness your feeling on the LMs may be that your accustomed to the Stelvio.

This model has a very strong throttle return springs and were sometimes replaced with a weaker springs. When the springs are replaced without replacing the carb crank tops with a flat tops, the slides tend to hang up a bit. Three different strength springs are available.

1.) Make sure the drive splines on the trans output shaft, U-joint, drive shaft and cush-drive are greased. Wurth spline grease works great.
2.) Make sure all the caliper pistons move and retract normally/evenly.
3.) Brake lines should not expand when the MC is squeezed.

Try to find out if the bearings were replaced when the frame was powder coated, they usually are. Otherwise I think the regular fluid change and tune up should be enough.

When it comes time to change the battery, go for an Odyssey. Their application chart calls for a PC925 but you can go with the much smaller PC 545 if you install a Valeo starter.

Still have the points?

Have fun.

 

[Series4]

Congratulations. By coincidence I am also a new owner of an LM3 that I picked up in the UK with 63k miles on it and rode it through France and Italy. It may feel sluggish because you need to use more revs. Because of relatively large chokes/valves they need some airspeed through the intakes and they tend to wake up from +4.5k revs. It could also need some flogging to clean things up. Ditto for the flexible brake lines, they will almost certainly be rotten if they haven't been used. Moto Corsa put Bridgestone Battlaxs on mine and they seem to be fine. Otherwise Michelin Road Pilots [Edit: Michelin Macadams]. Make sure (having been stranded in rural France on a Sunday) there's absolutely no water in the fuel system! Timing chain tensioner is the only other thing that comes to mind. Looks like yours has Konis on the rear rather than the original air shocks? They'll be fine, it's old-school suspension so the faster you go the better it gets.

Peter

 

[DanPez]

Thanks for the tips guys!

The baby is at home. :laugh:
I picked it up today, by truck, an drove home 150km.
As a bonus he gave me his Guzziology Book - What a resource :!:

The bearing were changed when they powder coated the bike.
I checked the brake lines ... no expansion but the outside rubber looks a little dry. (May be worth while to change them)
As far as the points are concerned I gotta check.
The battery gets weak after 2 tries ......but sure enough well primed the bike thereafter make 1 cycle and it ignites. :woohoo:
The funny thing is the throttle sticking seems to loosen up when the engine is hot. :blink:
Everything seems to run smoother when its hot ... the sluggishness seems to go away also. :cheer:

The rear shocks are Koni .... like you said Peter.
The front are air shocks .... would anyone know what they should be set at?

The tyres definitely have to be changed on my bike.
It has 100/90/18 in the front and (120/90/18 in the rear instead of 110/90/18).
I like the thread pattern of the Dunlop GT501 Sport Bias Front Tire and Avon AM41 Venom but cant find the right size for the rear. Michelin I had bad experience with them .... so thats out of my list.

Or else
Metzeler - Lasertec Bias Sport Touring (120-138$ costly)
Pirelli Sport Demon Sport Touring (92-100$ so and so)
Bridgestone Spitfire S-11 (53-62$ lowest priced)
Any experience on these?

But for now have to replenish my funds inch:

 

[Penis Rotor]

Are there two valves on the forks? One central to each fork cap? Or is there one valve and a joining tube to the other cap? If the former they are FAC aftermarket dampers and while most people run 'em ith zero pressure you can add a few lbs with a bicycle pump if you wish.

If they are the type with a coining tube they are the original Sebac dampers. They will probably be blown by now and the air valve delivers air into a pair of horrid little Italian condoms one in the top of each damper. this system is neither use nor ornament, it's only purpose is to separate the oil and air in the damper but since the oil will of all escaped past the seals by now it is pointless. Adding air as about as much use as tits on a bull. Ignore it and budget for a set of FAC's in the near future.

Mk III is one of the very best Guzzis ever made. Check the carb jetting. A common mistake people make is to put 'Mk I/II' jetting in them believeing that the small jets in the Mk III were installed for environmental regulations. this is NOT so the Mk III's use a 'Lean Burn' carburetor and puting bigger jets in just makes 'em run horribly rich, drinking fuel and wearing the rings and guides out super-quick!

Also check your gearbox number, (Behind the starter motor.) Some Mk III's came with the ZD straight cut gearbox. Whle IMHO the 'standard' 'T' box is actually better for road use having a ZD effectively doubles the value of the bike!!!!

Pete

 

[baloches]

Congratulations Dan, nice score

 

[guzzibob]

About tires-depends on what you want, how you ride. I do suggest stock tire sizes (100/90-18 front, 110/90-18 rear) if you still have the stock skinny 2.15 rims, which are really too narrow to best utilize anything bigger. Another suggested Michelin Macadams. They have been my favorite all purpose (meaning reasonable stick for my mildly sporting riding plus about 7-8k miles front, 6k rear) tires for my old Tontis for quite a while-but they have been discontinued. Too bad, I like them a lot. Now use Avon Roadriders (NOT the same as Roadrunners), about the same as Macadams in stick with a bit less mileage. Have used GT501's & Spitfires in the past, prefer Roadriders. On the other hand-if you value road stick & feel above all else, you can't beat Sport Demons-but don't be surprised if they are toast by 2500-3000 miles. For that reason, although I love the way they feel, I use Roadriders instead.

As for carb jetting, most Guzzis of this era & later come way too lean down low, way too rich up high, & benefit greatly from informed, proper rejetting. A lot of those who monkey with the jetting have no idea what they are doing. Takes some time & effort, but generally not much cash as most of the bits (other than slides) are pretty cheap. I don't have a Guzzi with the 36 PHF's that yours have so can't just tell you what jets to use. Since Roper suggests stock jetting may work well on this particular model, would certainly try that first if something else is in there, or at least use that as a starting point. Don't even think about fooling around with the jetting (beyond trying stock) without getting the Dell Orto tuning guide, a very helpful book when you take the time to carefully read & understand it.

 

[Series4]

Re: 1983 Le Mans III Dellorto guide

As if by magic...

http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/dellorto ... rto_2.html
http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/dellorto ... _book.html

Also, if the bike hasn't had much use, go through every single electrical connection especially the big molexes behind the fairing, and the fusebox.

Peter

 

[Moz]

looks v. nice the Mk III is a great Guzzi - probably the sweetest of the lemons too when running right and when they are they are rock solid... they do come alive above 4.5 rpm, more so after 5000 Stock jets but for the MK III! check guzziology
get yourself some braided brake lines.
and while you're spending money - get the tarrozi fork brace - best bang for your handling dollar and you will feel the difference... unless you can find some unobtainium 38mm marzocchis :roll:
I assume the brakes are still linked? stick with them - I love 'em even tho I change between the bellagio and the mk III every other day..
throttle should be snapping back - I have flat tops on mine - I'd think about new cables too if its been sitting & change your springs

Sport Demons - seriously, they are the best tyres I've had on my Mk III and if they wear a little quicker (not as much as some think) that is more than compensated for as they stick like horseshit at the trots - even in the wet

 

[DanPez]

I’m getting ahead of myself it’s getting to be an autumn project ….. I placed the bike on the lift last night and started taking it apart.
All I can say for now “Hats off to whoever invented Velcro”. :lol:
One of the side panels had almost 2 ft cut out of Velcro strip tape holding it in place.
The feeling I got is like opening up someone else’s memorabilia.

The front forks are one valve type jointed by a tube (Sebac?) and looking at the flexible I figured not more than 50psi will do the job to see if it leaks.
Well it did have a small leak when I pressurized it!
Transferring from one fork to the other works fine but the pneumatic tube was fairly dry and I was hearing the air pissing from the needle valve.
Changed tubing, removed and retighten the valve, put +/- 50psi pressure last night …. This morning so far so good! :woohoo: (Now's the fork oil)

I checked the gearbox and the identification is a standard T. No racing with this baby! :whistle:

While I had it on the lift I inspected properly the choke cables…..they’ll have to be changed.
Fuel lines are cracking ….. they’ll have to be changed.
Like you guys suggested … I’ll check stock jetting or at least use that as a starting point, WTF I have to clean the carbs anyway.

One thing that was starting to bother me, for the little time I rode it, was the flip/flop stock rearset …. they’ll have to be changed.
Hey I'm in no hurry ......one part / accessory at a time. inch:

 

[BravoBravo]

Congratulations on the new baby, Dan! Once you have done the necessary fettling, I am sure you will have a blast with it.

Bruce

 

[DanPez]

I'm in full swing.
I thought it would be worst.


Not the way it looks now ! :roll:

First list of parts to order / and change:
Front brake pressure switch does not make full contact,
Headlight assembly is rusted,
Throttle body was sticking causing no snap back .... carb springs have a good tension,
Horn .... found out why I have to change (horn, flasher) control switch a small air compressor was installed for 2 Fiamm air horns..... sounded like a freight train. They had probable cabled it directly to the factory switch assembly. Well it melted the horn button and was replaced with a momentary switch. (For now its got an isolation relay wired to the battery) hmy: :S

 

[Series4]

It looks like you've got a good one. Headlight should be fairly generic, I think Fiat 127 is a straight fit. The LH switch assemblies come up on EvilBay from time to time. Silicone spray lube down the cables will help. The velcro is there because the side covers are known to make bids for freedom at inopportune times. I recently lost one on the autostrada near Lecco, on my way to the Guzzi museum (poor me!).

Apart from that I like the Mk III so much I'm thinking of getting a second one.

Peter

 

[DanPez]

It looks like you've got a good one. Headlight should be fairly generic, I think Fiat 127 is a straight fit. The LH switch assemblies come up on EvilBay from time to time. Silicone spray lube down the cables will help. The velcro is there because the side covers are known to make bids for freedom at inopportune times. I recently lost one on the autostrada near Lecco, on my way to the Guzzi museum (poor me!).
Apart from that I like the Mk III so much I'm thinking of getting a second one.
Peter

Thanks for the tips!
I also asked a couple of suppliers for quotes on cost and delivery.
I'm working on a budget to replace what is necessary.

Strange enough these parts are easily accessible.

Edit:
I placed an order on the Pirelli Sport Demon Sport Touring ($270us total +D/T)

 

[Series4]

Re the stiff rear suspension of you lift the rubber band covers on the top of the rear shocks you'll see there's an adjuster there. Can't remember now which way is softer or indeed of there's a special method to use but it may help reduce the harshness

Peter

 

[DanPez]

Re the stiff rear suspension of you lift the rubber band covers on the top of the rear shocks you'll see there's an adjuster there. Can't remember now which way is softer or indeed of there's a special method to use but it may help reduce the harshness
Peter

I found the adjustments your talking about .... underneath the rubber band. (Thanks its good to know)
Mine are incremented from 1 to 4..... logically 1 being the softer.

There is also a preload adjustment .... slotted key or a large channel lock will rotate it.
Out of 3 setting mine were set maximun firmness.

 

[DanPez]

I opened up the PHF 36 carbs tonight and found a difference in the jettings compared to the Owners Manual, that was given to me.
The question I'm asking myself is what should I start with .... there are different versions out there for the LM3?

Needle- K18 .... same as manuals,
Needle jet-AB265.... same as manuals
Main jet- 125 ..... my manual is 115, Italian manual of LM3 is 132
Idle jet- 57......my manual is 50, Italian manual of LM3 is 60
Choke jet-75.... 70 on both
Pump jet-33.....same as manual, Italian manual of LM3 is 38
Slide-50/3.....both manuals says 60/3

Which version would you recommend I should start with?
Or is there a better start-up setup?
One thing I noticed was when I removed the spark plugs they were black .... giving me the impression the bike was running way too rich!
The values of Main, Idle and Choke jets tells the story. :huh:

 

[Penis Rotor]

Mk III LeMans use 'Lean Burn' carbs. Going to 132 mains will make it run like shit. I thought AB 268's were standared atomiser size for Mk III's?

Does it have original pipes or something more 'Open'? And has it got the original airbox or pod filters? (Checked the pics, its got pods and what look like Lafranconi 'Competizzione' pipes?

If it has pods and/or open pipes going up to a 120 main *may* help a bit at the top end, plug chops will determine that. My guess is 125's are a bit big. K18's are right, you *Might* find an improvement if you raise the needle a notch.

To my mind everything else looks just about OK.

Pete

 

[el jedi]

Aloha Dan,

And a big time Congrats to you and your new baby! She's a beauty.

I'll skip all my Tech imput; It looks like them good old Guzzi boys took care of anything I'd have suggested,
they where pretty spot on, boy its nice to be in good hands.

The only thing I will add, is pretty much how happy I am for you, and say ahead of time how much your going to enjoy her.

I personnly have yet to own a Lemans III, but this bike is "The Guzzi" that flipped me into Guzzi'mania for ever.
I was about 19 or 20, riding around on raty old Nortons at the time, and like all two-wheeled jockies, had enjoyed looking at Guzzi and had managed to swap rides with a few V7, T3 and Eldo owners... cool, but I dont know.
Then my buddy Jay (Now known as Jay of Moto Italiano), came into some extra cash, and on a wim, picked up a beautiful and clean 83 Lemans III. We stared at for hours, finally there was justifacation for keep our Moto's in the kitchen. The next day we went ridding, and at one point, switched rides.

It was only a short swap, but had an ever lasting effect. After a few months, Jay got more loose with loaning her out to me.

So on a beautiful Nor Cal morning, I took off on her out hwy 9 from Santa Cruz, up to Lafonda, down to Alice, then up to SF, across the Golden Gate, hours and hours I spent taking her all the long ways home, on an already long ways from home ride (something un heard of on one of my teenage/early twenties British Irons). The more I road,the more I realized and fell in love with the whole Sport and Touring of Guzzi.

And I been a fan ever since. For some reason, I've always just bought a new Guzzi when the right Lemans III has come to market... And she has been like my Phantom "Guzzi" girl, little peeks here and there, then turns away, for more than twenty years now. Congrats.

Aloha,
el jedi

 

[DanPez]

Mk III LeMans use 'Lean Burn' carbs. Going to 132 mains will make it run like shit. I thought AB 268's were standared atomiser size for Mk III's?
Does it have original pipes or something more 'Open'? And has it got the original airbox or pod filters? (Checked the pics, its got pods and what look like Lafranconi 'Competizzione' pipes?
If it has pods and/or open pipes going up to a 120 main *may* help a bit at the top end, plug chops will determine that. My guess is 125's are a bit big. K18's are right, you *Might* find an improvement if you raise the needle a notch.
To my mind everything else looks just about OK.
Pete

On the part list I downloaded it specifies AB268's also .... but the manuals says different. (3 hundredths mm ?)
Exactly ..... It has K&N pods and Lafranconi 'Competizzione' pipes and your right breathing a little better may need slight increase.
Infact I saw it somewhere else the use of 120 jet ....but having K27's needles on the 2nd notch as a standard setting.
The K18's specify placing it on the 3rd notch.
Thanks