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1994 Cali III

banquo

Just got it firing!
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Messages
23
Hi - 1st post, so be gentle... :oops:
I'm not even sure I'm posting in the right place or if the bike is a 'Tonti'....????
I've just purchased a Cali III, first registered in January 1994, but what seems to be a 1993 model, as it's fitted with twin Dellortos. It's had one owner from new, and has been standing doing nothing for the last 6 years or so.
It has 45,000 miles on it, and was used mainly for European touring. It seems to be pretty original, although it's had a taller screen fitted. Pipes and air filter are stock.
I know nothing about this model, and have never owned a Guzzi twin, so could somebody be good enough to tell me a little about what to look out for mechanically....?
First thing I'm going to do is change all the oils, and I've been provided with a new sump gaket, air filter and oil filter, as well as a brass sump plug (why?) and a washer, that looks like it fits that plug.
I gather that you need to drop the sump to change the oil filter, and that I need a 10W-40 oil for the engine.
Any old 10W-40, or does it need to be one designed for motorcycles?
Someone who used to own one is providing some final drive oil, and I guess the gearbox oil is nothing special.
Anything I can do to check the U/Js?
I know from the original owner that it has never broken down, and no work has been done other than routine servicing. It starts and rides OK, with no scary noises. Vibration is enough that the rear view mirrors are useless, but I'm not sure if that's normal (someone said the carbs might need balanced?). Throttle is extremely heavy, but I'm told that's normal.
Brakes seem to work OK and it passed an MOT (government transport dept.) test in November, so is considered fully roadworthy.
I'd be interested in any tips, dos and don'ts and general things to look out for. ;)
Have I made a good choice, or entered a whole new world of pain? :S
 
I assume from the reference to the MOT, you are in the UK.
If you are getting lots of vibration, then it does sound as if the carbs are out of sync, that is the cables are not adjusted so that both open together.
You can get lighter springs for the carbs too, there are three weights, and guzzi fit the heaviest, whereas the lightest weight springs are more than adequate, and make the throttle much lighter. You can get all the carb bits from these nice people.
http://www.dellorto.co.uk/
 
Thanks for that Brian,
Yes, up here in sunny but cold Scotland.
I'd heard about lighter return springs, but it was suggested these could give rise to slide bouncing, or failure to return....
I take it from your comments that you have experience that this isn't the case, which would be good!
 
Also the engine would be better with 15W50 or 20W50 (10w40 was recommended for the later hydro valve models). If you are doing a change with fully synthetic, she will be happy with 5,000 mile change intervals and changing the oil filter every other change. When you do drop the pan for changing the filter, look for small bits of rubber in the sump. That will tell you the cam chain rubbing block is failing and it is time to replace the chain and improve the tensioner http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=347. You can find out the month and year of manufacture by looking at the VIN plate on the steering head. If made after May it is considered the next year model (at least in the US). Also the 1993 uses the short filter unless it has been adapted to the later type. This only requires changing the fitting the filter screws to http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php ... ts_id=2403 then you can use the larger UFI or Bosch 3330 filter.
 
Thanks John, I picked up a couple of manuals with the sale, but they seem to be for earlier models. I'll need to locate a Workshop Repair Manual for my year and model from somewhere....
 
banquo said:
Thanks John, I picked up a couple of manuals with the sale, but they seem to be for earlier models. I'll need to locate a Workshop Repair Manual for my year and model from somewhere....

Try this: http://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/Calif10 ... -GB%29.pdf plus you will need information from this one http://www.guzzitek.org/atelier/gb/1000 ... _GB%29.pdf

The earlier model manuals age good for the basic engine, gearbox, and bevel drive. Guzzi didn't change much back then.
 
Thanx again for your help John. I'll give those links a try! B)
 
Cal III's came in a number of variants depending on which parts bins got drawn from. You say the throttle pull is very heavy, which leads me to ask which carbs you have. Some of these came with 40 mm PHF's & the big valve motor, same motor as on LM IV & V & 1000S, & for sure a very heavy pull if stock springs still in there-and/or if the cables need a lube badly. Some came with the Bosch starter, some with the later, smaller but much more powerful (& preferable if you have the big valve motor) Valeo's. Some came with the Motoplat pointless igniton (parts NLA), some with old style points-if they haven't been changed out for Dyna's or whatever. Other variations also may apply, but those are the big ones. Besides workshop manuals, you would very much benefit from a copy of Guzziology, made by & obtainable from Moto International in Seattle, Wash, USA. Endless supply of useful info there, get it for sure. Have no idea if there is a UK source for this.

Vibration is usually a carb balance issue, though it can mean the UJ is on the way out-however that usually reflects as vibration in footpegs/floorboards more than mirrors/handlebars. Only way to really check the UJ is to pull the rear wheel & swingarm. Not so hard to do really, just take your time. Since the bike is new to you & may still have original UJ, worth doing anyway.
 
Thanx Bob; I'll check that out when I get it home - sometime soon I hope.
 
Guzziology copies do come up on Ebay in the UK from time to time. Also some of the Guzzi dealers have stocked copies.
The WS manual for the Cali III is just a supplement to the one for the older bikes. I have a Spada III which is the same era.
I wasn't aware that any of the UK import models had large carbs, I thought they mostly came with the small 30mm. The SPIII has 36mm.
I use the lightest springs on my 36mm carbs and have never had a problem. Wrist is also 3 sizes smaller. Cable routing and lubrication is also critical.

Also worth checking in to the UK club website. You will be able to contact local help there as likely as not if you need it.
www.motoguzziclub.co.uk
 
Cheers Brian - I'll investigate the carbs and try some softer springs. It's definitely the heaviest throttle I've ever come across, and although I'd wondered about getting one of those wrist rest things, I'd be far happier with a more sensible load. I have touched on the UK site, but (unusually) you have to be a club member to post, and I'm not at this time... :oops:

I'll put a watch on Guzziology, and see what comes up.
 
Thanks Rod; enjoyed the articles, and surprised at your freezing temperatures... :eek:hmy:
Sounds more like here, although we have to dodge only deer and sheep and I have never yet had to brake for a 'roo....
I have a mate out there who has raced at Bathurst.

Interesting your views on the boards and controls; I set off for my short test ride, seller watching anxiously as I failed repeatedly to engage second gear at all (trying to get my boot under the toe shift, which is no problem on the Falcone with foot pegs, but quite impossible on the Cali). I finally developed a technique of holding my toe to the left of the board, and using it as a pivot point to bring the heel down on the rear of the pedal to change up. Weird.
And the brake pedal? I have no idea what that little rubber bit is for...
No doubt all will become clear in time.... B)
Like you, I found the whole thing solid and confidence inspiring.

Thanks again.
 
If you are in Scotland this event will be in a few months;

30 Apr 2010 - 03 May 2010 Scottish Rally
The Victoria Hall, Cromarty, Highland. Pre-book only, tickets: £15. Ticket booking forms and instructions will be in Feb/March issue of Gambalunga. To help with Rally tasks please contact Dave on 0131 660 9443. For more information see the Scottish rally website.

Good place to meet other Guzzi riders and pick their brains over a beer or 3.
 
Dell Orto's work plenty fine, once properly jetted-which they often if not mostly aren't as they come from Guzzi. I'm not saying big carb/big valve Cal III's were or were not sent to UK, have no idea, just know that as they came in the US the big carb bikes require a King Kong like grip to use-which can be largely fixed- so I'm just guessing this one might be big valve. Also when you check to see the carb size on your bike, see if the cables are straight pull (cable going directly in to the top of the carb) or bell crank with a lever type arrangement, which enabled the standard Guzzi throttle of the day to be able to pull the 40 mm slides through their full range. The bell cranks make the effort required even higher-and come with additional springs on the cable itself right at the bell crank, which springs can be removed. Must have been designed by lawyers. On my big valve 1000S I removed the springs on the cable, got softer springs for inside the carbs, & added a twist assist. With all 3 the throttle went from truly brutal to actually not bad.

As for the floorboard business, my T3 is the floorboard version, I think with the same arrangement as yours, so I know what you mean, no way to get your toe underneath the front, you have correctly figured out that either way it's pressing down to shift, either with toe or heel. Once you get used to it, it will become second nature no problem. As for the little rubber knob on the brake lever, that does have a purpose, namely to rest your foot on if you are going hell for leather in the twisties so you do not have to keep picking your foot up off the floorboard. Not really comfortable to keep it there for long, but can be useful at times. After all as I am sure you know the brakes are integrated, with 1 front plus the rear disc operated off the foot, only the other front disc off the hand, so well over half the braking force comes from the foot brake.
 
Thanx both; as I've just bought it, and am a cheapskate, I'll be sticking with the stock carbs for now, but once I actually pick it up, I'll check out the carb size and cable arrangement, and let you know how I get on. I've been in touch with Eurocarb, but they can't suggest anything until I have the exact spec.
I will now revere the little rubber knob, and see if it will accommodate my boot... :lol:
With my size of leg, I guess my knee will be up around my chin somewhere, although I do have the advantage that I can get both feet flat on the ground when stopped... ;)
With a bit of luck, the weather will be good enough for me to collect it this weekend, and I'll get a chance to familiarize on the way home.
 
I suggest you stick with the Del'Orto carburetors. They work better than the bings. When BMW wanted to make a fast bike (The R90S) they fitted 40mm Del'Orto carburetors.
 
When BMW made R90S Bing didn't have suitable carbs but When BMW later made R100RS(faster than R90S) it has Bings. My -91 Cali3 idles much better, performs much better and fuel consumption is better with those 32mm Bings than with original 30mm Dellortos.
 
Useful to know.
I'll certainly be sticking with the stock carbs for now, on the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' theory.
It's interesting, and probably not that surprising that people will try out different carburettors, and get good results from them, because choice of carb. for any machine has more to do with the contracts the manufacturer decided to make, than what was optimised for the particular characteristics of that engine. A carb is a carb, and an engine is an engine, and to some extent, the carb doesn't really care what engine it's bolted on to, as long as it's set up for it.
i suppose the advantage of using stock carbs is that the work has already been done. Everyone will know what the jet sizes are, even for various states of tune, but if you use something non-stock, you may have more messing around getting them to fit, and optimising the performance and economy.
You get similar debates on other makes too, and everyone's been telling me I need to change the carb on my Harley (am I allowed to use that word on here... :roll: ) from CV to Mikuni, and how transformed the bike will be if I do that. Problem is,the stock CV carb has been on there for the last 40,000 miles, and is has needed not one bit of attention. It never needed adjusted, never went out of adjustment; it just worked, and it will stay on there until that changes.
The Dellortos on the Cali? Well, the only issue I have for now is the weight of the throttle, and I'm pretty sure that can be sorted on the cheap, with the advice given so far. But if the carbs finally wear out,that might be a different story. :dry:
I'm really grateful for everyone's help so far. Haven't even collected the bike yet, and already I have had a lot of support, all of it practical and useful. Thanx again! :)
 
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