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1997 1100 Sport with Coughing / Hiccup / Engine Cutting Off Issues

MedicAndy

MedicAndy

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Apr 19, 2016
Messages
58
Location
Raleigh, NC, US
I just purchased this 24k mile bike a couple of month ago, and I finally had some time this week to do an oil and filter change, and a gearbox and final drive service. I also installed a set of new plugs, cleaned and re-oiled the K&N filters, installed a new front tire, and a new rear brake rotor and pads. I started and rode her only one for a short time after I fueled her up with ethanol free 93 octane with some Sea Foam additive, since this bike didn't run for several month before I bought her, back in November to allow the clean gas and Sea Foam to get into the injectors.

I started her up yesterday and took her out for a 60 minute ride for the first time since I bought this bike last November. The engine fired right up, and she does sound great. She idles fine and rides great in all gears. I did noticed, after the engine warmed up, that this bike has a cough or occasional hiccup, which cuts the engine off if I'm sitting at a standstill or while I have the clutch pulled while rolling to a stop. She does start up again without any issues as soon as I hit the starter button. I also feel her cough at low speeds / rpm's. The coughing goes away when the speed goes above 25 mph or so. The only way for me to keep the bike from cutting off when I get to a stop is to give some gas to let the engine idle around 2k rpm's. I have not yet changed the fuel filter or checked / adjusted the valves. I don't know how to check and adjust the valves, so this is on my list to learn. (Which is as soon as I find someone who can show and teach me on how it gets done)!

The engine idles very smooth around 800 - 900 rpm's. Any thoughts on what the cause of the coughing, followed by the engine cutting off could be?

Andy

P1150208
 
Several issues here. First, 1100 FI engines should idle at 1200 +/- 50 RPM. You need to do a TPS reset on this bike and TB balance after you adjust the valves to 0.004 inch intake and 0.006 inch exhaust. See this thread https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/new-alaris-centurion-vdsts-info-instructions.1676/page-2 California TPS reset procedure. Use the 1100 Sport value of 378mV for idle stop position. Let us know how that works. It may become necessary to remove the injectors and have them cleaned, but try to set if up correctly first. Also with the intake and exhaust mods you may need fueling help from Todd.
 
John has it well covered above, but the hiccup both at idle and at ~3k RPM is inherent with this era of Spines. Once you have it 100% mechanically sound (with it's age, I highly recommend pulling the injectors and having them cleaned @ rceng.com or eq - seafoam simply doesn't do it)... then it is likely fueling related. What EPROM is in the ECU? Also, the phonic wheel sensor (cam timing sensor) is super sensitive (make sure it's clean), so between it and the slop in the cam chain flapper (tensioner), gives an occasional missed signal to the ECU; This is the hiccup. Solve it by replacing the OEM flapper with a bow type like THIS ONE found at MGCycle.com.

Keep us posted on how it goes.
 
Forgot to mention that these engines run best with the stock air box. Drawing air from a large still environment works better than pod filters.
 
I probably spent about $4K trying to cure that problem on my (long gone) Sport 1100i. New computers, chips, port job, sensors - you name it. Turned out to be a crap timing chain tensioner. Get the after market chain tensioner and install it.
 
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