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2001 CALIFORNIA SPECIAL 1100 WILL NOT START

DOMENICK FOTI

Just got it firing!
GT Famiglia
Joined
Jul 14, 2020
Messages
9
Location
LAS VEGAS
PURCHASED THIS BIKE MONTH AGO AND ENJOYED RIDE IT NTILL COUPLE DAYS AGO NO TROUBLE .THE NEXT DAY THE BIKE DID NOT START TOUGHT WAS OUT OF FUEL , I REFUELED AND NOTHING , CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS AND NOTHING , PULL THE SPARL PLUGS OUT CILINDER HEAD AND CONNECTED THE SPARK PLUGS METAL PART WITH THE FRAME PRIME THE SYSTEM (I CAN EAR THE FUEL PUMP ) CRANK THE ENGINE AND IDID NOT SEE ANY SPARKS ACROSS THE ELECTRODES ! BOTH COILS ARE BAD ? OR THERE IS SOMENTHING THAT PREVENT THE IGNITION LIKE A SWITCH ? ANY INSIGHTS WILL BE APPRECIATE THANK YOU
 
Check the usual suspects. Engine cutoff switch, side stand switch. Let us know what you find there. Also please stop yelling (all CAPS) it is difficult to read
 
Checked the usual "suspects" ,removed relays and fuses clean the contacts ,replaced the battery with new one ,engine cut off works .the bike does not have side stand switch .you can ear the fuel pump pressurize and the the fuel injector relays going when when you flip the kill switch to the ON position but the bike cranks but not fire . Also i noticed no spark and no fuel inside the combustion chamber
 
this is a don't panic but do keep it simple for now. On EV's I have had a problem with the kill switch because I never use it. a shot of deoxit and a bunch of flips on and off and it's cured.
the crank position sensor needs to be cleaned once in a while. it will have shims under it don't lose them. I automatically replace all relays with new 5 prongs. they have an assortment of cheapies from the factory and at least with the 5 prongs, you can rotate one forward to check them. get the wrong factory in the wrong hole and you have a problem. the ignition switch is notorious for getting dirty and failing to pass juice. flush it with contact cleaner and put a towel under it to catch the drippings.
Last but not least is the TPS. if it's stuck in a partially open position it won't fire. easy to test look for 540-520 with the throttle off and for it to change as the throttle opens.
 
No spark and no fuel lead to a phase position sensor fail or ECU fail. Hopefully it is the phase sensor. If you need to replace it the gap is 0.7mm to the phenolic wheel. Even if the TPS was off proper adjustment, you would get spark and fuel. To get voltage readings you have to back probe the connector at the TPS and the range is in Mv. Also as Vagrant said the ignition switch is a weak point on these bikes and too much current goes through the contacts. I've seen failures of the ignition switch and set up relays to handle the current load.
 
No spark and no fuel lead to a phase position sensor fail or ECU fail. Hopefully it is the phase sensor. If you need to replace it the gap is 0.7mm to the phenolic wheel. Even if the TPS was off proper adjustment, you would get spark and fuel. To get voltage readings you have to back probe the connector at the TPS and the range is in Mv. Also as Vagrant said the ignition switch is a weak point on these bikes and too much current goes through the contacts. I've seen failures of the ignition switch and set up relays to handle the current load.
The phase position sensor that you mention is the same as the timing sensor (sens813) item #53 on the electrical diagram ? and how should i check it again ?
 
The phase position sensor that you mention is the same as the timing sensor (sens813) item #53 on the electrical diagram ? and how should i check it again ?

Which diagram are you looking at? Actually I don't need to know. It is the sensor next to the oil pressure sensor. The P8 manual in the downloads will tell you how to test it.
 
Which diagram are you looking at? Actually I don't need to know. It is the sensor next to the oil pressure sensor. The P8 manual in the downloads will tell you how to test it.
I did downloaded the diagram , thank you for that , manual says that the resistance across that sensor should be 680 ohms . Now , i did not take the gas tank to have access to the connector side i have disconnected the wires connector at the ecu , removed the phase sensor , took the reading at the sensor side one lead to the core contact and the other lead on metal part of the sensor and the reading was zero ohms.I hope this is the trouble if so can you tell where can i find the part ?thank you
 
I did downloaded the diagram , thank you for that , manual says that the resistance across that sensor should be 680 ohms . Now , i did not take the gas tank to have access to the connector side i have disconnected the wires connector at the ecu , removed the phase sensor , took the reading at the sensor side one lead to the core contact and the other lead on metal part of the sensor and the reading was zero ohms.I hope this is the trouble if so can you tell where can i find the part ?thank you

You need to disconnect the connector to the phase sensor and read the two leads. Any dealer can get you a new phase sensor if it needs replacement.
 
You may not need to remove tank, look under L/H frame cover in front of tank and follow sensor wire up. May be right in that space, worth a try.
 
You may not need to remove tank, look under L/H frame cover in front of tank and
follow sensor wire up. May be right in that space, worth a try.
I end up to remove the tank so while at i will replace the fuel filter ( that never was replaced before , the bike has 18000 miles )and a checked the sensor connectors pins between the first and the third and there was no reading therefore faulty . i ordered a new sensor and new fuel filter
 
I end up to remove the tank so while at i will replace the fuel filter ( that never was replaced before , the bike has 18000 miles )and a checked the sensor connectors pins between the first and the third and there was no reading therefore faulty . i ordered a new sensor and new fuel filter

Looking at the schematic, 1 and 2 are what you should check. 3 is a shield connection.
 
this is a don't panic but do keep it simple for now. On EV's I have had a problem with the kill switch because I never use it. a shot of deoxit and a bunch of flips on and off and it's cured.
the crank position sensor needs to be cleaned once in a while. it will have shims under it don't lose them. I automatically replace all relays with new 5 prongs. they have an assortment of cheapies from the factory and at least with the 5 prongs, you can rotate one forward to check them. get the wrong factory in the wrong hole and you have a problem. the ignition switch is notorious for getting dirty and failing to pass juice. flush it with contact cleaner and put a towel under it to catch the drippings.
Last but not least is the TPS. if it's stuck in a partially open position it won't fire. easy to test look for 540-520 with the throttle off and for it to change as the throttle opens.
Trouble was the phase sensor , replaced with new one and started just fine . thank you for your help
 
this is a don't panic but do keep it simple for now. On EV's I have had a problem with the kill switch because I never use it. a shot of deoxit and a bunch of flips on and off and it's cured.
I automatically replace all relays with new 5 prongs. they have an assortment of cheapies from the factory and at least with the 5 prongs, you can rotate one forward to check them. get the wrong factory in the wrong hole and you have a problem. the ignition switch is notorious for getting dirty and failing to pass juice. flush it with contact cleaner and put a towel under it to catch the drippings.
Last but not least is the TPS. if it's stuck in a partially open position it won't fire. easy to test look for 540-520 with the throttle off and for it to change as the throttle opens.
 
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