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2003 rosso corso

BRIAN

Just got it firing!
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Messages
16
I just picked this bike up after it sat for 2-3 years..I drained and flushed the fuel system and installed a new battery. I turned the switch on and checked that the lights, horn and turn signals all worked. I then cranked the bike and it ran well but I had no horn, high beam and tach but the turns worked. I checked the fuses and they were all good. I checked all the wiring for connections and all looked good. At times when I turn the switch on I will have the missing things working until I use one and it's like a fuse or breaker shuts everything down. Now I can't get it to run, it's not getting fuel, the plugs are dry.

This is my first modern goose and I'm lost..any suggestions for a new goose novice?
 
Hi,

everyone reads but doesn't answer...
Let me start with a tiny idea.
I don't know much, but it's like your bike shut those things like during starting your bike.
Has it somewhere in its electris system somekind of relais that shuts those things?
If it is, maybe that keeps hanging.

I hope some real Guzzi specialist reads this and can provide you with the right answers.
Good luck and have much fun with your Guzzi later...

Ad B
 
Could there be moisture/condensation in the wiring or connectors? Wouldn't hurt to check all connections and clean them up.
Has the bike been washed recently? Stored outside? How was the bike stored over the past 2-3 years?

I had problems similar to this on my yamaha a few years back when I hosed it down too much in cold weather. Took forever to dry it out.
 
Everything has worked at one time or another so you might have to spend more time on the electrics. Start by pulling the fuse box and cleaning the contacts from the back then work outwards.
 
Thanx to those that replied. The bike was stored indoors but was real dusty so I washed it down and dried it off and took special care to not direct water or air at any electrical connection. Since all the issues are centered around the left switch I disassembled it and sprayed it with wd40. I have disconnected the fuse block to check it over and all was well..testing shows full power to all pins.

The bike was parked at a shop that had replaced the starter relay and I see on the wiring digram that the problem functions go thru it but the bike cranks and ran, at one time, so I assume the relay is working. When I turn the key on I hear the fuel pump power up and then I hear a relay click. I can turn the switch on-off or hit the kill button and it will do the same thing everytime.

I'm hoping to pick up some relays this morning and try replacing some and see if that helps. I have been a goose owner for 20 years but they have all been round barrels and this bike with all the electrics is unchartered territory for me. Add to that that the closest dealer is over 100 miles away and I therefore have to try to sort this out if I can.
 
Brian,

Moto Fugazzi gave you the best advice.

Disconnect every connector and clean them. My preferred cleaner is TV tuner and contact cleaner available from Radio Shack in the US. These gremlins point to intermittent open circuits. Even though the connectors are together, even an amount of corrosion you can't see will prevent current from passing through.
 
Those bikes are notorious for issues with the 5 relays that control the electrical system. They are under the seat, five relays in a row. Often one will fail to activate and you will not get power to certain sub-systems. Try moving the relays around and see if the problem moves or goes away.
Some people say the problem is corrosion at the connectors for the relays and others (myself included) think it is an issue with relays not strong enough for the job. There is a fair amount of power going through them.
 
I did try moving the relays around but not positive results. I notice that there are two different sizes. Does that make a difference? I'm going to the Ducati shop to see if the duc relays are the same and if they are i"ll get a couple and plug them in to see if anything changes.

if that does not help I'll try cleaning the connections.

I have a feeling I'm chasing my tail and it will turn out to be a simple thing that I either overlooked or caused myself.
 
Electrical systems can seem somewhat "mystical", but they really aren't. As long as the smoke doesn't get out...

Sorry, kidding...April fools comment I guess.

The advice given on cleaning the contacts is very good. Normally, for every used bike I've owned, the first thing I do is ensure that the chassis ground is solid and not corroded. A little contact cleaner, some sand paper and dielectric grease are your friends here. Then, I go the contacts themselves; headlight, tail lights, brake lights, horn...the Molex connectors...all of them. Be very careful if you used electric motor cleaner as it can break plastics down pretty quickly. Then, I move back to the fuse/relay box. Same program. If relays are problem (and they are on this bike) either replace all of them (not a bad idea and certainly not supid expensive) or rig yourself a test rig to ensure each on is operating properly and consistently.

It will take some time, and you really want to be methodical about it.

This "should" take care of any issues you have. If you were having this problem on a BMW, I think I could point you to one or two potential sources, but this one sounds like a whole host. Remember this also; I've yet to buy ANY vehicle that's sat for some time that the owner didn't say "...it ran great when I parked it..." Actually, it ran like crap, they didn't want to mess with it, THEN they parked it...until they got tired of looking at it and sold it. ;)

Good luck and let us know what you find!
 
Just replaced two relays and I have all the missing functions back except that it will not fire, dry plugs. I'm going to replace all the relays and see what happens.
 
Well I have 5 good relays in place but still not starting. Bike turns over and has spark but plugs are dry. I had the bike runnig good a few days ago. Is there some easy way to check if the injectors are working?
 
Well, the easiest way to see if they're working is to remove one and see if it squirts when it turns over. You probably need a piece of paper to see the pattern. Generally, when injectors fail the drip fuel. They normally don't stick closed, but they can.

How long did you have it running before? Ok, kinda weird...any chance the fuel cut off under the tank is closed?

I'm unsure of how the saftey switches work in regards to starter interupts on Guzzi's, but try the side stand switch just in case.

Lastly, check for spark...you know it's getting air, but you don't know about either fuel or spark. You can ground a plug while you're starting, or you can pull an air intake boot back and squirt some starter fluid in as you're turning it over. If you get spark, it should start to sputter.

You're close... :)
 
Not to ask stupidly obvious questions but when you turn the key to on do you here the fuel pump run for a few seconds?
 
I have all the electrical functions back..I had two bad relays. I have gotten it to run somewhat. It will crank and idle fine but soon seems to run out of gas on the left side. It keeps running on the right as long as I play with the throttle. When I open the gas cap it releases pressure and some gas spills. I am wondering if I have the fuel lines run correctly, I had to replace some and I think I have the vent- return correct up under the tank. I have the return run into the line that goes up to the rim of the tank and is sealed by a rubber plug on the cap when you close it. The vent tube runs into the line that ends in the open line on the rim of the gas cap ring. If I turn the ignition on with the cap open it will shoot gas into the air from the return hole. I think part of my nonrunning problem was solved when I reversed a pcv type valve in the fuel line. I still am not real sure I have the lines from the tank hooked up correctely.
Is there a source for a diagram of how the fuel lines should run?
 
If your fuel level is low, it can certainly do this.

If it starts and idles somewhat, you're now dealing with nasty injectors and old fuel. Your vent lines might be crossed up, but I kinda doubt your fuel lines themselves are crossed up.

Keep digging! :D
 
Brian,

Take the tip over valve out of the vent line (it isn't a fuel line nor a PCV valve) and throw it in the trash. Fuel routing, petcock, to fuel pump (be sure flow is correct) to fuel filter then injectors and pressure regulator. Outflow from the pressure regulator goes to a fitting at the front of the tank at the bottom.

Look at section 12 of this manual http://www.guzzitek.org/atelier/gb/1100 ... I_F%29.pdf it is the closest I could find for your bike.
 
Another idea: I'm not sure if the fuel pump is in the tank like the Griso. I know the Griso had fuel line problems inside the tank-the line would either disintegrate or fall off (I forget). If there is a "whishing" sound inside the tank, then the pump isn't connected properly.
 
Moto Fugazzi said:
Another idea: I'm not sure if the fuel pump is in the tank like the Griso. I know the Griso had fuel line problems inside the tank-the line would either disintegrate or fall off (I forget). If there is a "whishing" sound inside the tank, then the pump isn't connected properly.


Fuel line is not in the tank. It has an external fuel pump.
 
I agree with John about the tip over valve. Toss it.
Also make sure the fuel and vent lines aren't pinched or collapsed. I just read another fuel line post that said fuel lines are good for about 5 years. Probably less with our ethanol gas.
 
Big thanx to all who responded. I've got it running great now. What happened was that when I replaced some of the fuel lines I crossed them up when I put it back together. What is the tipover valve? Is it the pcv type fitting in the fuel line?
 
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