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2006 Breva 1100 Schematic

I very much doubt some voltage regulators are set too low, they aren't made by Guzzi of course.

BUT on my Norge (identical wiring to the Breva) I had a low charge voltage at the battery (around 13.25v). The fault was partly a high resistance joint somewhere in the wire from the alternator main output, via the 30A inline fuse and another ln line connector to the battery. I ran a new heavier wire from the alternator direct to the battery positive, and immediately got 14.25 volts at tickover.

No amount of replacement alternators or regulators would have cured my low charge voltage, as the fault was in the wiring. And since your Breva is older than my Norge, I suggest you look there too.

Oh, and it's well known that the dash voltage readout can be lower than that measured across the battery, but after my wiring repair, it was much closer on my bike.

Howdy,

To each his own, mine was indeed set too low, as was mentioned by a dealer service dept, also have about a .7 volt drop between alternator output and battery.

When I changed the regulator to a properly set one, raised my battery voltage about .7 volts.

Haven't gotten around to adding a more robust wire from alternator to battery, on mine, which I'm hoping will bring it up another .5 to .7 volt.

DZ
 
What kind of problem are you having? Voltage drop issues?

I did several things to my bike to make things better. I ran a ten gauge wire from the Alternator output to the battey. Don't recall exactly how much but I was getting a significant drop from the alternator output to the battery, this corrected this. As affore mentioned, my factory regulator was set too low, so installed another which corrected this. Battery was getting significantly undercharge, which would take a toll on them and aggravate the following lectrical issues.

Other problem I had was the ECU cranking would get locked out due to a spike when the solenoid engaged. It's been in print but I ran a heavier wire to the start relay, directly from the battery, this helped this issue, but didn't fix it totally. Apparently they don't have adequite filtering on the ECU voltage sense. For awhile I ran a wire from the starter solenoid input and a wire from the battery and let them stick out under the side of the seat. If it didn't start I'd just touch them and it always started. Some use of my voltmeter showed the relay that engages the starter solenoid is highly resistive, so even if it engaged, the starter solenoid wouldn't pull in. The above two wires solved that, but sucked, was always going to just install a push button switch, never got around to it. I was going to install a GM starter relay, replacing the worthless Guzzi relay, but never got around to this either. Tried a new Guzzi relay, but it was just as bad.

Then my battery shot craps and I installed a new battery, and WALA it's always started since. Apparently my old battery, from new, had too high an internal impedance for their lectrics. But the lectrics on the Guzzi do suck. The old battery would always crank the motor, the Guzzi lectrcs wouldn't allow it to.

Other than the lectrics, which now seem pretty well sorted out, I like the Guzzi. The annoying thing is, the dealer had to know all of this, but never told me. Had to figger it all out myself. The dealer should do a proper wiring job, on the bike, to make it ridable, in my opinion.
Is there a happy ending to this thread? I am fighting the same.
 
Is there a happy ending to this thread? I am fighting the same.
Forgot to mention. The problem I was having where nothing happened when pushing the start button was caused by, in the dark of night, trying to figger out why it wouldn't start, which was due to the above voltage drop issue, which blew a fuse, I managed to turn over the Bank Angle Sensor. So, in the dark of night, put in a new fuse, still wouldn't start.

Nobody mentioned this. Just has that goofy label on one of the schematic inputs. It's an attitude sensitive device to detect if the bike is laying down. Whoda thought? It fit the socket for it, just fine, upside down. Seems like there was an arrow in the rubber or somewhere showing which way it should be installed, if you know there is even such a thing. Apparently very few people do, and nobody suggested this as an issue. Caused me weeks of grief now have a lot of spare electrical parts.
 
What kind of problem are you having? Voltage drop issues?

I did several things to my bike to make things better. I ran a ten gauge wire from the Alternator output to the battey. Don't recall exactly how much but I was getting a significant drop from the alternator output to the battery, this corrected this. As affore mentioned, my factory regulator was set too low, so installed another which corrected this. Battery was getting significantly undercharge, which would take a toll on them and aggravate the following lectrical issues.

Other problem I had was the ECU cranking would get locked out due to a spike when the solenoid engaged. It's been in print but I ran a heavier wire to the start relay, directly from the battery, this helped this issue, but didn't fix it totally. Apparently they don't have adequite filtering on the ECU voltage sense. For awhile I ran a wire from the starter solenoid input and a wire from the battery and let them stick out under the side of the seat. If it didn't start I'd just touch them and it always started. Some use of my voltmeter showed the relay that engages the starter solenoid is highly resistive, so even if it engaged, the starter solenoid wouldn't pull in. The above two wires solved that, but sucked, was always going to just install a push button switch, never got around to it. I was going to install a GM starter relay, replacing the worthless Guzzi relay, but never got around to this either. Tried a new Guzzi relay, but it was just as bad.

Then my battery shot craps and I installed a new battery, and WALA it's always started since. Apparently my old battery, from new, had too high an internal impedance for their lectrics. But the lectrics on the Guzzi do suck. The old battery would always crank the motor, the Guzzi lectrcs wouldn't allow it to.

Other than the lectrics, which now seem pretty well sorted out, I like the Guzzi. The annoying thing is, the dealer had to know all of this, but never told me. Had to figger it all out myself. The dealer should do a proper wiring job, on the bike, to make it ridable, in my opinion.
I have a new sealed deka battery. What battery worked for you with the Guzzi electrics? Did you ever have the dash show a ECU unplugged icon? My ECU and Dash diagnostics same as your's. Did you have to reset/re-code/etc you ECU or Dash? Any suggestion on the GM relay to try...I will run the alt to battery + wire. My problem still no plug spark and ECU UNPLUGGED ICON on dash still. there.
 
Doesn't sound like anything I encountered. Never had the ECU unplugged icon. This is well outside of my expertise. There are very knowledgeable guys on this site though. They helped me allot. Hopefully they can help you.

If it was mine, I'd check to make sure the ECU power lead has power on it, when the switch is on. At the ECU module pin. Also that ground is good, same thing at the ECU pin. Bad ground or bad power lead would kind of mean the same thing, no ECU power. Suppose if it's not getting power you could get all sorts of errors. Don't recall what battery I presently have, but do know I just spent more money. The cheaper battery didn't work. Believe later one was around $100, don't recall if AGM or not.

I have some GM cars from the late 80's and early 90's which seem to have the same fuel pump relay and had one laying about. Usually carry a spare, just in case. Needed to scare up a socket to plug it into, so was going to get one next trip to the junk yard, but never did. Being lazy, now that it has been starting reliably, never actually did it.

With more thought. The actuating coil in the GM relay has a lower impedance, so this made me nervous hooking it directly to the ECU, knowing how marginal everything else was. It was about half, if I recall correct. So was planning on using the Guzzi relay to drive the GM relay coil.

What worried me is the flywheel current and ECU coil driving output device, in the ECU. Also there must be a flywheel diode. If you rapidly open the switch to a coil, such as the relay coil, the current tries to keep flowing so they probably have a flywheel diode to give it somewhere to go. So the ECU output device and flywheel diode would both have to take double the current. So figgered on just leaving the wossy Guzzi relay there, and drive the GM relay coil with it. Again adding a flywheel diode to keep from arcing the Guzzi really contacts.

Not sure how much this means for you?

DZ
 
Doesn't sound like anything I encountered. Never had the ECU unplugged icon. This is well outside of my expertise. There are very knowledgeable guys on this site though. They helped me allot. Hopefully they can help you.

If it was mine, I'd check to make sure the ECU power lead has power on it, when the switch is on. At the ECU module pin. Also that ground is good, same thing at the ECU pin. Bad ground or bad power lead would kind of mean the same thing, no ECU power. Suppose if it's not getting power you could get all sorts of errors. Don't recall what battery I presently have, but do know I just spent more money. The cheaper battery didn't work. Believe later one was around $100, don't recall if AGM or not.

I have some GM cars from the late 80's and early 90's which seem to have the same fuel pump relay and had one laying about. Usually carry a spare, just in case. Needed to scare up a socket to plug it into, so was going to get one next trip to the junk yard, but never did. Being lazy, now that it has been starting reliably, never actually did it.

With more thought. The actuating coil in the GM relay has a lower impedance, so this made me nervous hooking it directly to the ECU, knowing how marginal everything else was. It was about half, if I recall correct. So was planning on using the Guzzi relay to drive the GM relay coil.

What worried me is the flywheel current and ECU coil driving output device, in the ECU. Also there must be a flywheel diode. If you rapidly open the switch to a coil, such as the relay coil, the current tries to keep flowing so they probably have a flywheel diode to give it somewhere to go. So the ECU output device and flywheel diode would both have to take double the current. So figgered on just leaving the wossy Guzzi relay there, and drive the GM relay coil with it. Again adding a flywheel diode to keep from arcing the Guzzi really contacts.

Not sure how much this means for you?

DZ
Thanks
 
ECU UNPLUGGED ICON SOLVED (for this particular issue) I had most conditions of this thread (no spark, no starter turning, diagnostic error messages, etc). The previous owner tried the suggestion of an additional fused direct connection from the battery to the power leg of the starter relay, but he just clipped (disconnected) the yellow and added the suggested fused wire. I simply re-connect the yellow (original power wire) up and spliced the fused wire into the now connected up yellow wire. All is well now. I really appreciate this forum, and will make another donation!
 
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