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2007 G11 just developed a fuel leak -- tank bottom

M

MrMorrisSD

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
85
Location
San Diego, CA
Hi folks. Last Saturday morning I was riding around my city and noticed a slight gas smell at every stop. Just confirmed tonight that there is a slight fuel leak at the bottom of the tank in the vicinity of the fuel pump assy/gasket. I purchased my bike "new" from the local dealer less than a year ago and still it only has about 1600 miles on it. (So it's still under warranty.) I pulled off the side fairing and can see that it's slightly wet around the FP base, and there was a small drop of gasoline on the left most bolt holding the pump in place (I think that's what the bolt is for).

I'm curious if this is a common problem. I am not sure what kind of event might have caused the issue. It was hot as blazes here in San Diego that morning, probably over 90-F by 10am when I noticed the problem. Normally I would assume that pressure might have built up in the tank, except that I have removed the canister assembly AND the little one-way valve that feeds it, so the tank basically vents straight to the atmosphere and CAN'T build pressure.
 
Several years ago on my Breva 1100 I had "weep " from the fuel pump assembly, I removed it but the rubber gasket was fine. It still leaked a little after reassembly so I put some none setting hylomar on the bolt threads that hold the pump in place. That fixed it and its been fine for the last 4 years. I suggest doing 1 bolt at a time as I had a hell of a job getting the rubber gasket back in place after i removed it , seemed to have swollen a bit.
Kevin
 
Thanks guys. I've seen pics of the gasket and in looking at it I wonder how it could "go bad". In retrospect though, I think I may have caused the problem inadvertently. After finishing one ride in the heat, I parked my bike at home and noticed that the tank vent hose (formerly attached the canister and now just bound to the CARC assy/brake hose) was spewing fuel vapor. So I figured, maybe I ought to put that little 1-way valve back in line and just live with a little tank pressure.

After that I rode to a gas station and filled the tank, then rode over to a friends house for a visit. By then the air temp was near 100 F and I had to park the bike directly in the sun. I figured nothing's going to hurt it just parked for half an hour. But looking back, maybe having a full tank and in that crazy heat, the gas expanded/vaporized and did something to the seal.

And this evening, I had a long discussion with a friend of mine and he was telling me that having a full tank on a MC while it sits in the sun on a hot day can cause all kinds of grief.

Dangit. I though the problem started earlier in the day when the tank was still relatively empty and venting to the atmosphere without restriction. But maybe then I was only smelling the vapors coming out the vent hose.

I did check pricing of the gasket online, at MG Cycle. They charge (ouch!) $62 US for it, and it's out of stock. I guess it's a warrantied part, but I would prefer to handle this sort of thing myself. I just don't trust most mechanics. And I am sure they won't do that fuel hose.filter improvement procedure shown in the other thread.
 
MrMorrisSD said:
And I am sure they won't do that fuel hose.filter improvement procedure shown in the other thread.
Click to expand...

If the fuel hose isn't a recall/warranty item, they will do it as a charged service. It will be worth the money getting rid of the problematic fuel line. Besides, to do the hose yourself, you will need the oetiker clamps to go with the hose. Let us know how you resolve this.
 
I might have found the problem. I got the tank loose this afternoon and while it was raised so as to disconnect the fuel line, I noticed something odd (literally) about the number of bolts holding the pump in place. I seem to have lost one along the way somewhere. And the FP base does seem wettest around this void. I looked on the top of the engine for it but in vain.

Guess it's back to the hardware store for me. I will see if replacing the bolt fixes my problem --- before doing anything more drastic. Manual says they're to be torqued to 6 N-m. I might has well re-torque all of them.

:-O
 

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MrMorrisSD said:
I might have found the problem. I got the tank loose this afternoon and while it was raised so as to disconnect the fuel line, I noticed something odd (literally) about the number of bolts holding the pump in place. I seem to have lost one along the way somewhere. And the FP base does seem wettest around this void. I looked on the top of the engine for it but in vain.

Guess it's back to the hardware store for me. I will see if replacing the bolt fixes my problem --- before doing anything more drastic. Manual says they're to be torqued to 6 N-m. I might has well re-torque all of them.

:-O
Click to expand...

I wouldn't recommend using a torque wrench for such a low torque, good possibility of causing damage. Just use a 1/4 inch drive socket and just get it snug. I still recommend replacing the fuel hose that can cause you problems down the road.
 
Good point, on both ideas. I hadn't actually thought about how low on the scale 6 N-m is: only about 4.5 ft-lbs (putting it into terms I understand better). I don't have a torque wrench I'd trust with a low number like that. I would just snug them up.

And I forgot about the hose fix this afternoon. I was having no luck with trying to remove that fitting. I read somewhere here that the procedure is to "push the hose into the fitting and pull on the gray ring" or something like that. I was trying that and getting no where, and I didn't want to break anything either.... like a $600 fuel pump fitting.

Anyone know of a video showing the correct technique?
 
Your almost there with the fuel line removal, support the tank on a block, and as you say -push the hose towards the red elbow with the right hand (it hardly moves) and with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand apply pressure to the grey ring, push the grey ring back towards the hose and slide the hose and fitting off the red elbow. To replace the fuel line just push the hose onto the red elbow (it doesnt click). Pull back on the hose to make sure its secure. Practice on a compressed air line, its the same type of fitting. I support the red elbow so no undue pressure will cause it to snap. Once you get the gist of it, its very easy and you'll be doing it one handed.
Cheers Kevin
 
For removal of the fuel line I've found it helps to disconnect the electrical connector to the pump and do a brief start attempt. That relieves the residual fuel pressure. Line comes off much easier.
 
Thanks all! Your advice was spot-on. I got the hose loose and the tank off. :D

Now that I have an unobstructed view of the bottom of the FP plate I can tell that there NEVER WAS a bolt in that position. The bolts I removed left scars from when they were torqued town. But where the bolt is missing, the surface is pristine. So it's off to the metric section of the local hardware store. I assume there is no problem reusing the gasket?

And I will probably put a little sealant on the bolts before tighting them. Is automotive RTV, like Permatex, acceptable? (I don't think we have Hermatite in this country.)

One spot of good news is that my pump's already configured the better way. I have not pulled it out all the way yet, but from what I can see it has the filter bent back down toward the bottom and it's zip-tied to the pump housing; the config is not the 'long stalk' setup as seen in the pics of the original 2007 fuel pump assemblies.
 
RTV is not gasoline resistant. You will need a product that is. BTW you are looking for hylomar not Hermatite. Most auto parts stores stock Hylomar.
 
Just to wrap this up, thanks John and everyone else. My bike is now fixed. (Actually it was fixed yesterday.) I found Hylomar at the local Pep Boys and goobered the bolts with it. No more gas leak.

It was a cheap fix relatively speaking---just cost me a Saturday. Glad I didn't take it to the dealer. Even though it would certainly have been covered under the warranty, the whole process would have been more trouble than it's worth. And I'm only out about $12 for the Hylomar and the bolts I had to find.
 
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