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2007 Norge gremlins

GannonAlex

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 24, 2016
Messages
24
Location
Ann Arbor, Mi. USA
Hi everyone, Thanks for the add...it's my first post here but I've been doing searches around here a bit. I'm a returning Guzzi owner, I recently purchased a 2007 Norge and a few issues have cropped up So I'm looking for some hive mind owner help here if possible. Most of my issues might be to be common in nature to the model/year from what I've seen? The most pressing is that once the bike warms up (about a half hour)the neutral light will not engage. And while that in itself is no big deal, if you stop it OR put down the kickstand (that'll kill it when it's hot) then it won't start until it's cool...I've been stranded. Putting the stand up or clutch in while in gear will not help...I cleaned the clutch sensor switch but it just won't start until cool again. I've read in places that it's most likely a hard to access connector on the gearbox for the nuetral sensor but in those cases I read that it would still start...just not get neutral. These were older posts so any updates would be appreciated as I'm putting her up on the lift this weekend and going through some things. Other thing to resolve is a soft rear brake...can I just use a speed bleeder and bleed them or will I have ABS issues? Also I've read about oil pump issues on this year? Not sure if this matters but my last six vin is 112729. As well, coming to lights RPMs take a while to reach idle...common? Are there any reasons I should avoid this bike/model/year or just typical Guzzi stuff? Any and all info is appreciated. I got this so I could ditch my R1200RT but I can't even take the Norge out for a day trip and not get stuck so I guess the RT stays for now...but one needs to go, SOON. Thanks in advance. Gannon
 
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Will this ever be the reliable touring machine (or even just day trip/commuter) to replace my R1200RT or am I just dreaming? I had an 1998 V11EV I toured on and piled the miles on...I loved that bike.
 
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It appears the clutch switch isn't working correctly either. There is a schematic for your bike in the Downloads section. Get to a dealer and see if there is a record of the oil pump being replaced, or if possible check with the previous owner. Parts and Service manuals are also available in the Downloads section. The ABS system can be bled using standard techniques. I'm not a fan of speed bleeders, but they should work. If the rear pedal continues to go soft, then it is an ABS control unit issue. There is an outfit in Nebraska that rebuilds these. The same guys that rebuild the BMW units. The two valve per cylinder engine is very reliable. Once you get these kinks out, the RT will be for sale.
 
Thanks for the reply John.
I'm gonna start on her today and download the manual. Ill be testing my lame schematic reading skills I suppose but from what I gather from your post is that normally with the clutch pulled it should start regardless of the neutral indicator being flakey? Is that correct?
I've cleaned that switch really well at the lever but it hasn't made a difference but I haven't tested it yet with a multimeter wherever it ends to be able to put a meter on it so...
Id love to speak with the previous owner but I purchased the bike from Cleveland moto who was reselling it as a trade in and I seem to be having difficulty reaching him through them because he apparently moved. As well the bike was purchased and serviced at a closed MG dealer called Speakers Cycles in Ohio so I'm not sure how to find info on whether the pump was replaced. There are no MG dealers nearby to Ann Arbor Michigan so I'm flying by the seat of my pants here. I used to have Larry Klein (RIP) at GT Motors and then Eurocycles but Larry has passed and Eurocycles closed. Not sure how to look into the pump issue without the owner or dealer who may have serviced it. :-(
Curious...why don't you like the speed bleeders? I put them on my Triumph Speed Triple a couple years ago so I can make that a one person job. I'm needing to actually bleed those brakes now....are there issues?
 
Look in the owners manual for the previous owners information. It may be there. Also, put your serial number in Google search and you may be surprised to see what comes up. One thing may be the previous owner listing it for sale and you can get a number from there. Don't necessarily buy the "He Moved" thing. The dealer may not want to tell you. Some won't. The bike should start in gear with the clutch pulled in with the sidestand up. Not sure with the sidestand down but me thinks not. There is a discussion on here about the oil pumps but my 2007 had the last numbers 13496 which is not much more than yours and I put 26,000 miles on it and I remember I never worried about it as I think mine was safe. It is still running fine for the next owner. I like the 2V engine better than my new 4V engine but the rest of the bike is a bit better. The ABS thing is a PIA and I had it. If there is a place to rebuild it I recommend that as a winter project but just bleed it for now.
 
Thanks. Yeah no owners info in the manual or warranty service book(no service specific info notated there either) but I do have the owners name on an insurance card left under the seat. That would require some detective work. Did a vin search and nothing comes up either.
This motor reminds me of my other Guzzis....I also currently have an Eldorado(20 plus years but not currently on the road. I didn't wanna deal with Rollerization crap so......
 
Thanks. Yeah no owners info in the manual or warranty service book(no service specific info notated there either) but I do have the owners name on an insurance card left under the seat. That would require some detective work. Did a vin search and nothing comes up either. This motor reminds me of my other Guzzis....I also currently have an Eldorado(20 plus years but not currently on the road. I didn't wanna deal with Rollerization crap so......

The Rollerization crap only applies to the pre 2013 4 valve motors which yours doesn't have. I had the same problem with the neutral light on mine, it turned out to be a loose connector on the top of the switch.
 
Right...that's why I bought the 4 valve.

I'm having trouble locating exactly where this possible loose connector on the switch/sensor is...I've download the service manual but I've wasted lots of time already.
 
Right...that's why I bought the 4 valve.

I'm having trouble locating exactly where this possible loose connector on the switch/sensor is...I've download the service manual but I've wasted lots of time already.
It is on top of the switch, Located on the back of the gearbox, above the output shaft. The switch is vertically mounted apx 1' tall
 
I can't read any of the letter colors on the service manual electrical schematics....any one tell where the clutch switch wire goes so I can test it? This thing should start with the clutch in, in gear. I may have helped the nuetral sensor connection but I need a backup to get home. Anyone? Ciao
 
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It would also seem the connection to the neutral sensor is fine. When it's warm the bike just won't start. And won't start hot or cold with the clutch pulled in gear...I've cleaned the clutch switch. so no progress
 
Maybe the kickstand switch? Possibly it"s location to the hot engine/exhaust is causing a failure? Hard to diagnose on the web. Also, how is it failing to start? Cranks over and nothing, hit the key and all goes dark? Maybe something totally different. The 2007 is prone to Startus interuptus. Also the ground wire to the engine corrodes. On my California the positive cable on the starter was loose from the factory and intermittently failed to start.
 
The chopstick method made me suddenly hungry. :p Your bike is gorgeous, sounds like a little tweaking and you should be happy for a long time to come.
 
"Maybe the kickstand switch? Possibly it"s location to the hot engine/exhaust is causing a failure? Hard to diagnose on the web. Also, how is it failing to start? Cranks over and nothing, hit the key and all goes dark? Maybe something totally different. The 2007 is prone to Startus interuptus. Also the ground wire to the engine corrodes. On my California the positive cable on the starter was loose from the factory and intermittently failed to start."

I'll check the kickstand switch...it could well be a factor, it's on the list anyway along with every other connector/switch.
It won't crank when the starting issue happens...nothing else, all lights on the dash still on just won't engage starter like it's in gear(because the neutral light is off in neutral)...this is only after bike is hot and has been ridden.
I had it idling today for quite some time, stopping it and starting it and letting it idle...it got really hot but nuetral stayed lit. Weird. It wasn't until I took it out for a ride that the nuetral light went out and I knew manipulating the neutral sensor connector was not the issue.
Oh...and that stupid tank connector. Ugh
Startups Interuotus sucks. Lol
 
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