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2007 Norge Just Died While Riding

brentis1

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
14
Hi Guys,

I went out for a ride yesterday on our 2007 Norge - 2 up and loaded with gear. At about 250km the bike just died. No warning lights but the dash still up. Pulled over and restarted no problems. Tried to think it was just a random gremlin but the. It happened again at about 350km, then repeatedly to the point where I had to restart 3 times in 50km to make it to our destination. It was a warm day (display showed 32DegreeC). No ECU faults showing. Dashboard faults showing 1,2,5,7,and 8 but there was no warning lights at any stage.

Fired her up this morning - perfect - but can make not guying to ride home the 500kms as I have no idea what the hell
Is happening?

Any ideas? I can only think it is a sensor problem or failure as things have got warmer. Bike has done many similar trips and never had an issue.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Cheers

Brent (New Zealand)
 
When you went to restart, did it immediately fire right up?

My thoughts first run to the simple like the ignition interlock on the side stand switch.

Did you accidentally hit the sidestsnd with your foot to cause it to shut off the engine? Is the switch loose? Intermittent failure. Is the switch clean and free of dirt and debris?

This does not sound like a mechanical or FI electrical issue to me.
 
With the fuel cap open, and pressurizing the fuel system, is there any sound or visual bubbling of air in the tank? Early filters would gradually or suddenly split (half plastic/metal), reducing fuel pressure below min. for running.
A technician I met some time ago had a fibreoptic attachment for his I-phone so he could check the filter without pulling the assembly.
(On the Griso, you can see the filter through the filler cap.) If you have records of a filter change in the past, you are probably ok in that area.
Hope you make it home safe.
 
Check the resistance on the cam sensor, had a similar stelvio problem a few years ago.
 
Guys, appreciate the ideas. I have changed out the original fuel filter for the metal fuel filter about 5000 k’s ago. There was nothing regular about the stopping. First one happened before my first fuel fill and remaining 4 after the fuel fill.
I’ll check the side stand switch but the ss warning never appeared.
The faults were all in memory.
Currently taking the bike home via car and trailer.
I’m certain there’s a connection with heat because the longer you left the bike before trying to restart the longer it would go for.
Will keep you posted after mechanic has had a look
 
Ray1150 may be on to something since it appears to be heat related. Another component that can fail with heat is an ignition coil, but usually only one fails not both. A third possibility may be the main ignition relay, but relays usually work consistently or doesn't work at all.
 
Thanks Guys - agreed about comments on ignition coil failure as it should only effect one cylinder. Battery was new at service 1500km ago and terminals are nice and clean but the mention of service made me think about something else………..

Part of the service was oil and filter but the service report does not state what oil was put into the bike. Is it possible if the mechanic put in 10W50, or less, and not 10W60 and that the oil is getting very thin when very hot, loosing pressure thru the pump, and the ECU is switching off to protect the engine?

Am following up now as to what oil type was used but am I chasing a red herring. ??

The bike has performed flawlessly for years so I don’t understand what would have changed. The only difference from previous rides was loading and ambient air temp which was between 30-33 degrees C.

I am interested in your expert opinions as I am but a humble electrician even though MG seems to be trying to turn me into a mechanic😂

Cheers

Brent
 
I think oil is a red herring.
It won't be connected to the fuel filter either anyway as when they go, they go, no second chance of restarting.
My money would be on the cam sensor, unless you are very unlucky and both ignition coils are failing.
 
Thanks Guys - agreed about comments on ignition coil failure as it should only effect one cylinder. Battery was new at service 1500km ago and terminals are nice and clean but the mention of service made me think about something else………..

Part of the service was oil and filter but the service report does not state what oil was put into the bike. Is it possible if the mechanic put in 10W50, or less, and not 10W60 and that the oil is getting very thin when very hot, loosing pressure thru the pump, and the ECU is switching off to protect the engine?

Am following up now as to what oil type was used but am I chasing a red herring. ??

The bike has performed flawlessly for years so I don’t understand what would have changed. The only difference from previous rides was loading and ambient air temp which was between 30-33 degrees C.

I am interested in your expert opinions as I am but a humble electrician even though MG seems to be trying to turn me into a mechanic😂

Cheers

Brent

I agree with Brian that in your case oil is a red falsa pista :giggle:, and think Scott's "switch" ideas are more likely the cause.

Still, my '07 had a similar experience to yours a few years ago from overheated oil in Brevard, N.C., on a very hot day in traffic and would not restart for a bit.

I'll not divert this into an oil thread, but will say that when that happened, I got a red light. I pulled over, shut it down, and it would not restart until it cooled. See Hot Oil Shutdown.

Good luck on finding cause.

Bill
 
First bet is cam sensor full of crap. Next re-do the battery connection. Just because it was just done doesn't mean it isn't bad. Flush the ignition switch with some electrical cleaner. Make sure you put a rag under it to catch the juice dropping out. Next is to clean, but, preferably replace all of the relays. I just buy all 5 prongs regardless as to what was in there.
 
And another for the cam sensor

My B11 suddenly took to cutting out at idle and that turned out to be the cam sensor dying.

My sensor was all swollen up.

Be careful not to loose the shim (and O ring IIRC) when you remove it. Shim may stick to the block
 
Thanks gentlemen - she is at the surgeons right now so I will keep you posted. I have suggested the first place to look is the cam sensor given your guys advice. Really handy having the forum as there isn't really a strong MG dealer network in NZ so you tend to be on your own a bit :) Cheers Brent
 
Thanks gentlemen - she is at the surgeons right now so I will keep you posted. I have suggested the first place to look is the cam sensor given your guys advice. Really handy having the forum as there isn't really a strong MG dealer network in NZ so you tend to be on your own a bit :) Cheers Brent

Spec for that sensor is 680 ohms +/- 10% at 20 degrees C.
 
Hi team, just a follow up post. I have just returned from a multi day 2000km ride on the Norge. This time she ran like a Swiss watch but in slightly cooler temperatureS (10 to 29 degree C days)

The visit to the surgeon revealed nothing. Diagnostics were clear. Crank sensor was working perfectly and kill switch and side stand switch were just fine. We changed the oil and filter whilst we were there.

Prior to this ride I removed the chin fairing so the engine could get as much cool air around it as possible.

It would appear as though the ambient air temp was too high, and we had too much load and not enough cool down breaks and something in the electronics just cut out at that temperature.

Lesson taken - don’t ride it two up, full loaded, for 300km without a break in 32 degree C plus days!!! Removing the chin fairing probably helps with cooling!!

Cheers

Brent
 
I'd still check the cam sensor wire for hardness. Mine (on a Quota) failed because of overheating since I didn't remove my winter sump cover in time for spring temperatures. I blew the alternator as wel... Feel if the cam sensor wire has any hard to bend areas and if so I would install a new one and keep the old one as a spare.
 
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