• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

2007 Norge Starter issue

You couldn't leave that permanently as the front pilot and rear lights are also powered from fuse B and they would then remain on.

No, it wasn't suggested to be a permanent fix, only an easy method to determine whether the "startus interruptus" fix is going to cure the non-starting. Once the starter button is pushed, just brush the free end of the cable (connected to the battery positive) across the back of fuse B is usually sufficient.
All, here is the latest communications from Larry at MPH reviewing what they have tried so far.


I did do the load test on the battery, in fact I tried swapping it out.

I have been doing some digging myself. I looks like a bad ground may have been the under laying issue. I've been told a bad ground will blow the ECU. When I out the ECU from Guzzi tech in last week I got the ECU disconnect icon. Regardless of what I did I could not lose it. I spoke to Todd and he says the unit was good when it left there. Since I have no way of bench testing the ECU I have to rely on his thoughts. I put your ECU back in and now I am getting the same ECU disconnect icon. Which gives me more to go on. What I've come up with is a bad ground. I had already checked for that, one of the first things I checked. However the ground for the ECU didn't go directly back to the battery, it does now, but I fear the damage is already done. I am waiting for Todd, Guzzi Tech to get back to me, I want to overnight your ECU as well as his ECU to him to have them tested and reflashed, hopefully that will correct the issue.

Interesting to see what they find with the ECU. A bad ground at the ECU can cause issues but would take a lot to blow the ECU in that situation, but guess it is possible. Good to know it was not the battery.

Other thing they may want to look at is the maintenance relay (pretty sure the 2007 has one, but not 100%). It will also cause a no start issue if it is bad. Basically it will not allow the bike to start if it is not triggered. It is there to restrict a start in a low voltage situation. Since it does not sound like a low voltage situation, it may actually be an issue with the relay. Worth a look just to be sure.
It takes awhile to jog my memory, but I did recall while rereading this thread -- and, especially, about the earth/ground issue -- that early Norges (and mebbe vB11's, too) had a known ground problem where, IRCC, the negative cable attached near the starter. Was a mild PITA too get to that on the Norge, and I remember checking mine and finding it tight. Many were not.

Now back to knowledgeable folks ... ;)

Bill that is a common problem on a lot of the Carc bikes. The ground lug sometimes doubles as a nut for the starter cover. That is an issue on the Stelvio. Sometimes when you unscrew the starter cover bolt, the lug can come loose. Not sure if the Norge has the same issues, but that is a common place for a grounding issue.
i have a 2007 Norge that makes a loud click when starter is depressed. I have added the starter relay fix already. If I connect alligator clip to positive on battery and yellow wire of starter relay she fires up. It's been at MPH shop in Houston since August, 31st and they haven't figured out either.
I can email a video of sound if anyone wants to hear it, can't figure out how to post it here.
Hey @Brad, have you or MPH ever found the problem with your bike? I am interested in what the fix was, as I am working on a friend's bike with the same problem.
I have stated this time and time again. Almost without exception, this is the primary culprit of this problem.
Me too... but everyone loves to chime in and tell me how their old battery is still good, and they haven't had any problems. YMMV.
I figured my friend's bike out. The battery was testing good all day long. The bolt that holds the negative cable to the battery was too long by about 0.02mm, leaving the feeling that the bolt was tight, meanwhile the ground cables were barely touching the battery post. It's been starting all day long. Thank you to this group for the inspiration to search in the unconventional areas.