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2009 Fuel Line Connector

That’s life in the service industry - Stupid customers money pays my bills.

Ps: They aren’t really stupid sometimes they just don’t get it... and that’s what keeps us gainfully employed

Don

Yep, that's the way I see it too. The goal of the service provider is to ethically extract money from the customers' wallets. And to be really successful in doing so, you sometimes must "spoon-feed" the customer; essentially you have to do whatever ethical means it takes to make the transaction happen.

Jason
 
Gentlemen, this is not a business!

I belong to many forums on many topics related to my interests and hobbies. Whenever I ask for help or instruction. I realize that I have my “hat in my hand - looking for a handout” and I am grateful for the assistance I receive for free and never bite the hand that feeds me.

I would tolerate just about anything around here if my opening line of a response was “Your credit card number please…?”

However, this is a labor of love and camaraderie created and funded by Todd and there are those of us who gift our time, experience, knowledge and resources to help others to add to the great wonderfulness that is GuzziTech.

Niceness counts.
 
Scott -

It was a JOKE! It was a freely admitted statement of my OWN failure to appreciate what folks have done when I was the one who didn't read the whole thing and do what I should have. It was said in context of my patient wife helping me (women being patient and forward-looking), a man who won't take direction and who won't "back up" when he's moved forward too far without reflection.

Haven't you ever been in a situation where you think that you're doing the right thing, you cuss and fume, and then find out that it's your own fault? It's one of the common experiences that human males everywhere share.

If YOU had read the whole post of mine without flying hot at an imagined slight, you would have seen that I was sincerely thanking you, John Z., and everyone else for your help, that I was showing appreciation for the effort you've put in to share your experiences, and that I had taken advantage of it and will try to take some of the load off you in the future.

I forget sometimes how ready people are to take offense, to think that everything they see is a personal insult to them. I'm going to post and ask some more questions about stuff. I would appreciate your help and insight, but if my way of asking bothers you or causes your blood pressure to rise, please just ignore them and go on to the next. I'm really not trying to cause trouble. As a wise man has said, "Everything seems excessive, now, and too intense, too important. It’s really a terrible affront to the majesty of the ordinary and the beautiful simplicity of life". Words to live by.

Lannis
 
Glad you got it off Lannis, I knew you could do it!! Just old stuff not used. BUT now it works. If your bike's been reliable why take it apart. It will come apart easier next time. Hey, I have broke a few, nothing new.
 
Glad you got it off Lannis, I knew you could do it!! Just old stuff not used. BUT now it works. If your bike's been reliable why take it apart. It will come apart easier next time. Hey, I have broke a few, nothing new.

Steve -

The Stelvio has been a bit frustrating over the years, but overall reliable; it's never let me down on the road. It's generally ridden two-up with a touring load, so 450 pounds payload. The stock rear suspension was completed sacked out after about 15000 miles, so a new rear suspension from Todd and new heavier front fork springs sorted that out, and it's been fine since. Of course, being a 2009, it had the bad hard-faced cam followers ... I had those replaced at 39,000 miles; I don't know of any 8-valve that went much farther than that on the original defective followers, and they've been fine since - the valve lash hasn't changed at all. I changed the brake and clutch fluid this spring; the brake fluid was perfectly clear, the clutch fluid was nasty although the clutch was still working fine.

The present oil leak started all at once during the semi-annual Mutton Run to Western Kentucky. It started at a gas stop, leaving a dinner-plate sized puddle of oil under the bike at each stop, but made it home losing only a couple millimeters on the dipstick in 500 miles.

Although we have another transcontinental touring bike now, I will probably keep the Stelvio. It's in its robust middle age, running well, familiar, doing everything that its supposed to, and I don't worry about cosmetics and such. Sort of like me....

Lannis
 
No, do not do that unless you have the $500 fuel injection hose tool to reconnect it afterwards! You will regret it.

Did you read my explanation posts in their entirely?

Use some silicon spray on the pawls and collar side.

Press the connectors together first to back off the pawls. Then pull gently straight back.

It does not take force. If you are using force, then you are doing it wrong 100%

Having done it all successfully now, and took it apart and put it together and fooled with it and understand how it works ....

I would add the following just after the sentence "Use some silicon spray on the pawls and collar side".

"Holding the elbow and the fuel line tightly, alternately pull and push the two together until you feel about 1/16" of motion between the two, with a definite "click" at both ends. This may take a few minutes and a dozen or so push-pull cycles. Then hold the gray locking ring and the fuel line, and do the same - push and pull them alternately together until you feel about 1/32" of motion. This will get rid of stiction due to varnish or dirt which may prevent proper operation of the joint".

Before I understood how it worked, I thought that simply applying pressure to the joint and ring would make it pop apart. But it obviously doesn't work that way ....

Lannis

 
Having done it all successfully now, and took it apart and put it together and fooled with it and understand how it works ....

I would add the following just after the sentence "Use some silicon spray on the pawls and collar side".

"Holding the elbow and the fuel line tightly, alternately pull and push the two together until you feel about 1/16" of motion between the two, with a definite "click" at both ends. This may take a few minutes and a dozen or so push-pull cycles. Then hold the gray locking ring and the fuel line, and do the same - push and pull them alternately together until you feel about 1/32" of motion. This will get rid of stiction due to varnish or dirt which may prevent proper operation of the joint".

Before I understood how it worked, I thought that simply applying pressure to the joint and ring would make it pop apart. But it obviously doesn't work that way ....

Lannis
Indeed - it doesn’t seen intuitive for us “Regular Clowns”
 
Posted elsewhere but…

We’ll try again...

RULE #1: The red elbow is EASILY BROKEN because it was never designed to have any external force put upon it! At no time during any of this, do you exert any lateral or vertical forces on the elbow itself. IT WILL BREAK EASIER THAN YOU REALIZE. IGNORE THIS RULE AT YOUR OWN PERIL.

MOST IMPORTANT CRITICAL CONCEPT: All of your GENTLE movements ARE ON THE fuel injection line side and involve movement only along the centerline axis of the red elbow connector which actually relieves tension on the elbow.

Procedure and Reasoning

1. Pull the fuse for the fuel pump.

2. Crank engine for a few seconds, it will start and then die, and the pressure will lower in the fuel injection line. Crank it one more time for a few seconds and the pressure within the injector itself will equalize with the fuel line pressure to the lowest pressure possible all the way back to the red elbow.

3. With one hand, from the fuel line side, grip the fuel line and GENTLY PRESS the whole assembly towards the elbow connector until it no longer moves. This moves you off of the locking rim on the elbow connector.

4. With your other hand, GENTLY PRESS the white collar back towards the fuel line, squeezing the entire fuel line connector assembly together. This releases the locking rim pawls on the collar which grab the locking rim, i.e. the latching mechanism.

5. While keeping these two components pressed together, GENTLY WIGGLE the whole fuel line connector assembly (BUT DO NOT EXTERT LATERAL OR VERTICAL PRESSURE ON THE RED ELBOW ITSELF) as you back it away and off of the elbow.

(The video doesn't do #3 the easiest way, because you don't have to push that hard, and it will only move a very small amount, but the outcome he got in the video was the same.

The important part of the video as far as you are concerned is the elbow connector and what it looks like at the moment the connector is removed {0:59}. You can clearly see the locking rim on the red elbow.

When he shows you the end of the fuel injection hose and white connector {1:01}, you can see the white pawls inside of it that grab the locking ring. I believe that having you actually see what these parts really look like, you will be able to visualize it in your mind as you disconnect it. It will be much easier as you will understand what is happening)

The trick is to relieve the pressure to the lowest point possible from injector to fuel pump, push the whole fuel line connector towards the elbow, then press the locking collar back towards the fuel line to release the locking pawls, then GENTLY WIGGLE it off the locking ring on the elbow and off of the elbow completely.

The reason you both press the fuel injection hose towards the elbow and then press the collar towards the fuel injection hose, is exactly the same for both - movement of the locking pawls. First you are relieving all pressure being exerted on the pawls. They will no longer be touching the locking rim. Then when you press the collar back towards the fuel injection line, they collar controls the mechanism that pushes the pawls out of the way so you can pass over the locking rim. The gentle wiggle is because the assembly is plastic, and sometimes, the pawls don't retract quite as far as they need to in order to clear the locking rim. By GENTLY wiggling the compressed assembly, you will aid in fully retracting the pawls to their maximum distance away from the center, thereby making it easy for the fuel line connector to clear the locking ring and then be slid off the elbow.

When you replace the line, you press the whole assembly gently onto the elbow and all the way past the locking ring until it stops and will go no further. {This is only possible if you have bleed out the fuel line like we did in Step 1} You want no pressure in the line so the you can press the connector PAST the locking ring so that the pawls fully extend to their maximum seating positions. You then GENTLY PULL back on the fuel line which fully seats the pawls on the locking rim. When the fuel pump is again engaged, the pressure within the line, will add pressure on the pawls against the locking ring, causing the hose to be locked in place with the pawls, via fuel line pressure, and as a result, the red elbow and the fuel injection line become a rigid assembly, unable to wiggle loose.

Good Luck ! You'll get it. Just be GENTLE. It doesn't require any force, only finesse and technique.
 
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