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2009 Stelvio Rear Wheel Damaged

Discussion in 'Stelvio Chat & Tech' started by gbund71ambassador, Aug 9, 2015.

  1. gbund71ambassador

    gbund71ambassador Just got it firing!

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    I removed my rear wheel to do a tire swap a few weeks ago and forgot to use locktite when installing. A week later I had the wheel come loose on me. I got it towed back to my house and inspected the wheel. Noticed scoring on the gear and the registration holes were oblonged. I believe I need a new rear wheel. Am I total idiot for not using loctite or did the wheel come off as a result of a larger issue say with alignment or bearings?

    3 Questions:
    1) Do I have a bigger problem on my hands? I know I should have used locktite but I'm surprised the wheel came off. I torqued the bolts down quite hard would have expected them to hold for more than say 100 miles.

    2) Does the Drive look intact? It seemed ok to me upon pretty close inspection. The threads are still intact and there was no damage to the gearing with the exception of some of the surface rust being scraped off. Is there anything else I should check before getting back in the saddle?

    3) Does anyone have a 2009 rear wheel for sale?

    4) What are suitable replacement wheels if an OEM is not available? I've seen posts about an 1100gs wheel working or other people even upgrading. What are some good replacements or upgrades? I mostly do highway and paved touring with the bike. Very few fire roads and almost no offroad.


    Any help would be much appreciated. Desperately wanting to get back on the road.
     

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  2. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Did you use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque? I've never used loctite on wheel bolts and only see this issue when someone fails to torque the bolts correctly. As for the condition of the wheel, a shot of the side the cones go in would help to access condition.
     
  3. gbund71ambassador

    gbund71ambassador Just got it firing!

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    I torqued the bolts down pretty hard. Used a long handled ratchet and cranked it down with a lot of force. Is that not correct? Is there some kind of torque sweet spot I missed? As far as the hub, I am pretty convinced that it is shot and will need to be replaced. It's the CARC I'm more concerned with as it looks intact and I think would be a very expensive repair.

    Thank you for your help and prompt response. Much appreciated.
     

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  4. Kevin.NZ

    Kevin.NZ High Miler

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    A long handled ratchet cranked down is not torqued, you need to use a calibrated torque wrench set correctly and do the bolts up diagonally , I think from memory its 80ft/lb or 110Nm. From the photos the hub looks fine, the cones don't seem distorted. Put the wheel back on, torque it up correctly and check the wheel runs true and even.
     
  5. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Agree with Kevin, and he is correct on the torque value. Get a good torque wrench. The wheel hub and CARC appear serviceable. Best on the rear wheel to torque to 50% on all bolts, then repeat the patter to final torque.
     
  6. elfrider

    elfrider Just got it firing!

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    What kevin and john have said is great advice.

    I just changed my rear wheel as well last week.

    110nM on the wheel bolts (and 50nM on the two bolts holding the brake caliper on).

    You don't need to use locktight, in fact I wouldn't. You SHOULD use a calibrated torque wrench unless you have one built into your arm. Also, I think it is always a good idea to recheck the torque after the first ride, just in case.
     

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