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2012 Norge 20 Amp fuse

romanowski

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Apr 19, 2012
Messages
43
Location
Cambridge
I have had my 2012 Norge since new and have never had an electrical issue. It now blows the 20 amp fuse that runs power to the relays. With the fuse blown, the engine will start, but the alternator stops charging the battery. I have replaced the alternator and all 4 relays, but the fuse keeps blowing.

Is there anyone else out there that has had this issue, and resolved it?

Thanks
Roman
 
Check for chaffing in the wiring. BTW, I thought the fuse to the alternator was a 30 amp fuse.
 
The 30 Amp fuse goes to the key switch and the instrument panel. The 20 amp fuse that I am having a problem with comes off the power supply, through the fuse then to the starter and headlamp relays.
 
The 30 Amp fuse goes to the key switch and the instrument panel. The 20 amp fuse that I am having a problem with comes off the power supply, through the fuse then to the starter and headlamp relays.


I'm looking at this schematic. https://www.guzzitech.com/phocadownload/norge_1200/Norge_1200_GT8V-Wiring_diagram.pdf The alternator should only not charge when the 40 amp fuse goes out. Which 20 amp fuse is failing, that is please state the color of the wires to that fuse? I don't see any relay coils powered by either 20 amp fuse. I do see one of those 20 amp fuses providing power for lights at the light logic relay. Do your lights fail when the fuse blows?
 
In the bottom right hand corner of the schematic, it is the 20 amp fuse with the red/green wire on one side and a green/white wire that goes to the #87 pin on the #6 relay and the #30 pin on the #5 relay. It is not a 40 amp fuse.

I will check the lights. I am going to test the starter motor bendix drive to be certain it is not sticking closed and drawing excessive current.
 
In the bottom right hand corner of the schematic, it is the 20 amp fuse with the red/green wire on one side and a green/white wire that goes to the #87 pin on the #6 relay and the #30 pin on the #5 relay. It is not a 40 amp fuse.

I will check the lights. I am going to test the starter motor bendix drive to be certain it is not sticking closed and drawing excessive current.


It looks like that fuse also provides power to the power port under the seat. Make sure there isn't a short in the harness to that power port as well.
 
I checked out a number of possibilities and still that fuse kept popping. I inadvertently, put the brights switch on, and voila: the fuse did not pop with the engine running!!!!! As soon as I dimmed the brights, the fuse would blow.

Its now 5:00 PM in Ontario and about 31 degrees outside. I will probe further tomorrow AM: this is starting to cut into my drinking time!
 
I checked out a number of possibilities and still that fuse kept popping. I inadvertently, put the brights switch on, and voila: the fuse did not pop with the engine running!!!!! As soon as I dimmed the brights, the fuse would blow.

Its now 5:00 PM in Ontario and about 31 degrees outside. I will probe further tomorrow AM: this is starting to cut into my drinking time!


Take a look at the wires running to your headlights. It looks like you may have a chaffed wire for low beam. You are getting close and should have drinking time soon!!
 
That is exactly where I found the problem: RS Low Beam. The H3 bulbs that I had installed last season were not insulated all the way to the connector. As a result the bare part shorted inside the low beam housing cover. Note to self: not all H3 bulbs are created equal!

Thanks for your input.
 

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  • H3 55 watt bulbs.JPG
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Those wires on the H3 bulbs have been an issue chafing on the reflector fitting before. Get some electrical sleeving slightly larger diameter and add an extra layer of insulation.
 
Thanks for the tip. I ended up buying two new bulbs that were insulated right to the connector. The old bulbs, though both still working were a year old, and I don't want to have one burn out while I am away from home touring.
 
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