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2012 Stelvio NTX Valve Adjustment Procedure

Discussion in 'Stelvio Chat & Tech' started by leafman60, Jul 29, 2012.

  1. Kelvio

    Kelvio Just got it firing!

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    The Guzzi looks as easy as my old BMW R1100RT oilhead motor. That is a big plus.

    What is the book spec on how often this needs to be done?
    I know that how the bike sounds and starts is a factor on when you do an adjustment, but is there a mileage spec recommended?
     
  2. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Should be done at the same time as an oil change, 6,000 miles.
     
  3. boxermoose

    boxermoose Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Did the vales tonight at 5000miles in preparation for a trip coming up - the write-up is excellent & the nytie boot removal works a treat

    All my valves were about .002" loose - reset them to .006" intake (.15mm) and .008" exhaust (.20mm)
     
  4. Mike1230

    Mike1230 Just got it firing!

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    Okay, once and for all, would someone please confirm the gaps are .15mm intake and .20mm exhaust for the 8-valve? I'm coming up on my first service interval and would like to get it right the first time- okay, maybe the second time. After reading this thread I didn't get a warm and fuzzy feeling on which gaps were correct.

    The "Sevice Station Manual" says .10mm intake and .15mm exhaust.

    Is it imperative that I have the TBs sync'd and tps checked after valve adjustment?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  5. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    No but it doesn't hurt. But it is good practice to have the valves adjusted before you do a TB synch though. I can't help you on the specification. I'm still trying to find out myself.
     
  6. Goodvibes

    Goodvibes Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    John is without question correct about the factory interval. However, my experience has shown that you can easily double (or more) the valve adjust interval, and your plugs can go 20K miles and more. Not surprising given plugs are typically 'lifetime' parts for modern cars. Spend more time riding, less time fiddling.
     
  7. pete roper

    pete roper GT Godfather!

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    A5-A8 motors were specified as 0.1 inlet and 0.15 exhaust. Later motors this changed to 0.15 inlet and 0.2 exhaust. Since no part numbers that were relevant changed I can only assume it was done as a preventative measure to avoid risks associated with the tappets riding the cam base circles. Certainly if the newer 2O2 sensor engines are running the roller tappets then a change in clearance would be understandable. With the flat tappet motors I've never had any issues with running 0.1-0.15 even in extreme conditions. It was 38*C here yesterday, that's 100*F in the old money and I had to take my Griso into Canberra to pick up some steering head bearings for a Breva. It ran just fine, even when stuck in a queue of traffic for five minutes, which is more than can be said of the rider who wilted a bit! I've never run mine with bigger gaps than 0.1-0.15. Its expected to be 44*C here today, thats 111*F! If I go anywhere it'll be in an air conditioned car! :evil:

    As for interval for checking? I've found that they usually come set wide from the factory and will close up in the first few hundred Kms. I check them before a bike is delivered, I then check them at the first service and suggest to new owners that a check at 5,000km is a good idea but the factory say after the first service every 10,000km is fine. Certainly after the 10,000 service I find it very rare to find that they have changed more than a thou and while you probably could leave them longer than 10,000km I can't see why you would? Adjusting the valves is so simple and easy not doing it would seem to me to be a false economy. Most of my customers are happy to take my advice on the *Extra* interim check when the bike is new and, as I keep saying, I've NEVER had a cam or tappet failure on any 8V. Is the slightly anal obsession with checking the valve lash relevant? Who knows? But I'm not about to start trying to prove anything by stopping advising it! :D

    Pete

    PS. I have a dipstick thermometer in my G8 and as I said the conditions yesterday here were pretty extreme. While I wasn't thrashing the motor my trip to Canberra involves some 35km of riding each way. On the open road, cruising at about 130kph indicated, even in 38 degree heat, the oil temperature remained obstinately at 112-115*C. When I was stuck idling in traffic and stop/starting between lights in the baking sun the oil temperature rose briefly to 140*C where it stabilised and seemed to not want to get any hotter. Within five minutes of getting back up to speed on my return trip the oil temperature has dropped to 112-115*C once more.

    While temperatures in the cooling galleries would of been considerably higher than the overall sump temperature I see no reason to worry unduly about 'overheating' the motor. Conditions yesterday were about as *Extreme* as most motors are ever likely to see!
     
  8. canuck1969

    canuck1969 GT Reference GT Contributor

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    Pete,

    As always excellent information. As for the valve gaps, my 8V on my 2012 Stelvio was originally set up on 15 and 20 based on the world spec (even though the sticker on the bike was 10 and 15). After some issues realted to excessive noise and vibrations Guzzi told them to set them at 10 and 15 since the 15 and 20 was really meant for the roller tappet engines that are slated for late 2012/2013 production. Noise went away and vibrations reduced considerably. One would think that your conditions would constitute pretty severe for a flat tappet and all is good. Think I will be safe in Canada :mrgreen:
     
  9. Tonyduc

    Tonyduc Just got it firing!

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    Does anyone know if this procedure will apply to my 2011 Stelvio? I assume this is the same one as posted by Canuck1969.
     
  10. mrEnke

    mrEnke Just got it firing!

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    Just finished checking the valves on my Stelvio and this thread helped immensely, thanks!!!
     
  11. leafman60

    leafman60 Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Bumped by request.


    .
     
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  12. Nicolai

    Nicolai Just got it firing!

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    confusing thread rearding tappet clearances... and I appreciate your help once again:
    2013 Stelvio NTX ~29000 miles
    1) how do I know whether mine is A5 or A8 or some other model of engine?
    2) I set my tappet gap (not sure what rollers are) 0.1 INTAKE and 0.15 EXH
    3) having set them thrice in about 15,000 miles of riding (up to 40C air temp in traffic through Toronto!) BOTH times I was astonished to find them having TIGHTENED (by more than 0.02!) - ideas on what could cause this (I hope its not the valve seats!)??
    4) OIL question: I am running a German Full synthetic 10W40 and when I checked my valves last week (well below freezing in the garage) I found a thick coat of beige ΅mayonnaise' gunk on each of the tappet covers (a full 3-4 tablespoons each side). Ideas? This oil has run about 4000 miles through >40C and <-5C weather...

    Repeated thanks and happy holidays!
     
  13. canuck1969

    canuck1969 GT Reference GT Contributor

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    Well…first and foremost get that 10w40 out of there. Not the right oil for that engine. Needs to be 10w60. Now you are probably fine for the cold weather but will not end nicely when you are in hot weather and the engine starts to get hot. Motul 10w60 is readily available on southern Ontario.

    As far as the tappets make sure you are doing your measurements on a cold engine only. That much movement is not normal. Double check those measurements.

    The mayo is somewhat normal. Comes from the engine not coming to temperature from short runs in cold weather. The water in the oil does not burn off.

    Clean up the mayo and change the oil for 10w60.
     
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