1. Pry off the silly little badges.
2.)Undo the 3mm hex bolt that holds on the HT lead cover and remove it.
How *NOT* to do it... see Tech bulletin:
3.) As you can see my plug caps are manked up. This is because they are incredibly soft, even with great care i managed to tear the rubber they are made of so the best idea would be to use forceps to remove them, I didn't have a set and paid the price. New HT leads, with caps, cost $88 a side here, ridiculous! so mine are now lashed up with silastic and insulating tape. Sure it's ugly, but it works and you can't see it. But for others who don't want to screw up like I did? Get forceps to get the caps off and then tie a loop of twine around the sealing rings on the plug cap. It can be hidden under the HT lead cover and used next time to extract the cap without risk.
4.) Using an extension and plug socket, extract the plug.
5.) Undo the 4 rocker cover retaining bolts.
6.) Lift off the plastic bling and note that there are 'Tampons' beneath the screws, Yes, that's what they're called in Italian, it translates to 'Plug' :lol: There are these sealing washers under all four bolts but on the rear pair where the bling is they go ABOVE the bling.
7.) Don't loose the front pair either.
8.) The rocker cover can now be lifted off, the gasket is a nitrile/viton type and is re-useable.
Now repeat this opperation on the other cylinder head. Now we can get to the valve adjust.
9.) Pry out the rubber bung from the front of the alternator belt cover.
10.) Using a 24mm socket and a ratchet turn the nut, (Which is on the end of the crank.) CLOCKWISE as viewed from the front and wathch the valve gear. Each cylinder is a separate operation, it matters not a jot which one you start with. WAtch the inlet rocker open the inlet valves and then shut them. You now know that the piston is ascening the bore one the compression stroke.
11.) Poke something long and clean, (A drinking straw is good, I use an Allen key T-bar but I've done this for years and know what to expect.) down the plug 'ole and feel the piston as it rises. Once it seems to slow down as you turn the crank you know you're getting to the top of the stroke, keep turning until you feel the long, clean thing start going down again, now jiggle until you feel that you are at the highest point. You CAN take the timing bung out of the RH side of the crankcase and look for the TDC mark on the flywheel if you want to be super-exact to the book but the IMPORTANT thing is that both the tappets, (Cam followers.) should be on the BASE CIRCLE of the cams. Anywhere 80 degrees or more either side of Top Dead Centre will be on the base circles but if you are within a few degrees of it you know you're pretty right.
12.) Getcha feeler guages out. 0.1 inlet and 0.15 exhaust is the go, or 4 and 6 thou if you're an old fart like me
13.) I'm using the pick to point to the lash-cap that sits on the end of the clearance adjusting screw and the top of the valve. The clearance is measured between this and the stem of the valve.
14.) Try and slip the feeler betwixt the lash-cap and top of the valve. Because the cap *wobbles* like a ball and socket/hip joint on the adjuster it is important to give it a bit of a wriggle. If it still won't go in you need to unlock the locknut (9mm nut.) and wind out the adjuster a bit. Then turn the adjuster, by finger at first, until the feeler guage is a smooth sliding fit. You shouldn't have to brace your foot againt the bike and tug but neither should it simply slip out. I find tightening the adjuster finger tight and then nipping up the nut will usually result in a pretty good fit as long as the adjuster doesn't tighten as you tighten the nut.
15.) If neccessary use a screwdrivee in the slot of the adjuster to hold it while using the spanner to nip up the nut.
It is very important to remember that these are teeny-weeny little screws. They do NOT need to be tightened to buggery to hold their place. A gentle 'Nip' with a short spanner is all that is required. If you can't judge what might be suitable for such an application? Take it to someone who can.
Repeat the adjustment on the three other valves. The inlets are set to 4 thou the exhausts to 6 as the exhausts obviously run hotter and will expand more than the inlet valves.
16.) Note that the plug orifice is sealed by an o-ring. Inspect thois carefully and have a couple of spares on hand in case of damage. You don't want your plug-ole filling with oil. Note pre-formed Viton/nitrile rocker cover gasket. I use a bit of rubber grease on the nternal o-ring just to help it slip over the *tube* in the head.
17.)Replace rocker cover and ridiculous plastic bling. Don't forget the tampons!
18.) Tighten down the rocker cover screws..
OK, that side is done, (You can do either side first, it matters not a jot.) you now go round to the other side, which you will of completed steps 1 to 4 on already and repeat steps 5 to 18. The con-rods share a common crankpin so TDC on one cylinder is NOT the same as TDC on the other. Just think of the engine as two single cylinder motors for the purpose of tappet adjustment and treat each one separately.
19.) Add a bit of Nickel-coat or silver based anti seize to the plugs.
20.) And re-install them.
21.) Press home the plug caps and reposition the HT leads.
22.) Re-install the HT lead covers.
23.) Put back in the shitty little badge.
24.) Re-install. the bung on the front of the belt cover.
Finally check that you haven't done something stupid like leave the ratchet on the end of the crank, you can account for all your tools, (None left inside!) and that all the fasteners etc are clean and tight.
All this info is given in good faith. If you can't work out which are the inlet valves and which are the exhaust valves or only have three bent screwdrivers, a sawzall and a big pair of vice grips I DON'T suggest you try it but it is easily within the ken of anybody with enough mechanical aptitude to turn on a tap without hurting themselves. I DO though state that if you screw up it is YOUR fault, not mine. so consider carefully.
2.)Undo the 3mm hex bolt that holds on the HT lead cover and remove it.
How *NOT* to do it... see Tech bulletin:
3.) As you can see my plug caps are manked up. This is because they are incredibly soft, even with great care i managed to tear the rubber they are made of so the best idea would be to use forceps to remove them, I didn't have a set and paid the price. New HT leads, with caps, cost $88 a side here, ridiculous! so mine are now lashed up with silastic and insulating tape. Sure it's ugly, but it works and you can't see it. But for others who don't want to screw up like I did? Get forceps to get the caps off and then tie a loop of twine around the sealing rings on the plug cap. It can be hidden under the HT lead cover and used next time to extract the cap without risk.
4.) Using an extension and plug socket, extract the plug.
5.) Undo the 4 rocker cover retaining bolts.
6.) Lift off the plastic bling and note that there are 'Tampons' beneath the screws, Yes, that's what they're called in Italian, it translates to 'Plug' :lol: There are these sealing washers under all four bolts but on the rear pair where the bling is they go ABOVE the bling.
7.) Don't loose the front pair either.
8.) The rocker cover can now be lifted off, the gasket is a nitrile/viton type and is re-useable.
Now repeat this opperation on the other cylinder head. Now we can get to the valve adjust.
9.) Pry out the rubber bung from the front of the alternator belt cover.
10.) Using a 24mm socket and a ratchet turn the nut, (Which is on the end of the crank.) CLOCKWISE as viewed from the front and wathch the valve gear. Each cylinder is a separate operation, it matters not a jot which one you start with. WAtch the inlet rocker open the inlet valves and then shut them. You now know that the piston is ascening the bore one the compression stroke.
11.) Poke something long and clean, (A drinking straw is good, I use an Allen key T-bar but I've done this for years and know what to expect.) down the plug 'ole and feel the piston as it rises. Once it seems to slow down as you turn the crank you know you're getting to the top of the stroke, keep turning until you feel the long, clean thing start going down again, now jiggle until you feel that you are at the highest point. You CAN take the timing bung out of the RH side of the crankcase and look for the TDC mark on the flywheel if you want to be super-exact to the book but the IMPORTANT thing is that both the tappets, (Cam followers.) should be on the BASE CIRCLE of the cams. Anywhere 80 degrees or more either side of Top Dead Centre will be on the base circles but if you are within a few degrees of it you know you're pretty right.
12.) Getcha feeler guages out. 0.1 inlet and 0.15 exhaust is the go, or 4 and 6 thou if you're an old fart like me
13.) I'm using the pick to point to the lash-cap that sits on the end of the clearance adjusting screw and the top of the valve. The clearance is measured between this and the stem of the valve.
14.) Try and slip the feeler betwixt the lash-cap and top of the valve. Because the cap *wobbles* like a ball and socket/hip joint on the adjuster it is important to give it a bit of a wriggle. If it still won't go in you need to unlock the locknut (9mm nut.) and wind out the adjuster a bit. Then turn the adjuster, by finger at first, until the feeler guage is a smooth sliding fit. You shouldn't have to brace your foot againt the bike and tug but neither should it simply slip out. I find tightening the adjuster finger tight and then nipping up the nut will usually result in a pretty good fit as long as the adjuster doesn't tighten as you tighten the nut.
15.) If neccessary use a screwdrivee in the slot of the adjuster to hold it while using the spanner to nip up the nut.
It is very important to remember that these are teeny-weeny little screws. They do NOT need to be tightened to buggery to hold their place. A gentle 'Nip' with a short spanner is all that is required. If you can't judge what might be suitable for such an application? Take it to someone who can.
Repeat the adjustment on the three other valves. The inlets are set to 4 thou the exhausts to 6 as the exhausts obviously run hotter and will expand more than the inlet valves.
16.) Note that the plug orifice is sealed by an o-ring. Inspect thois carefully and have a couple of spares on hand in case of damage. You don't want your plug-ole filling with oil. Note pre-formed Viton/nitrile rocker cover gasket. I use a bit of rubber grease on the nternal o-ring just to help it slip over the *tube* in the head.
17.)Replace rocker cover and ridiculous plastic bling. Don't forget the tampons!
18.) Tighten down the rocker cover screws..
OK, that side is done, (You can do either side first, it matters not a jot.) you now go round to the other side, which you will of completed steps 1 to 4 on already and repeat steps 5 to 18. The con-rods share a common crankpin so TDC on one cylinder is NOT the same as TDC on the other. Just think of the engine as two single cylinder motors for the purpose of tappet adjustment and treat each one separately.
19.) Add a bit of Nickel-coat or silver based anti seize to the plugs.
20.) And re-install them.
21.) Press home the plug caps and reposition the HT leads.
22.) Re-install the HT lead covers.
23.) Put back in the shitty little badge.
24.) Re-install. the bung on the front of the belt cover.
Finally check that you haven't done something stupid like leave the ratchet on the end of the crank, you can account for all your tools, (None left inside!) and that all the fasteners etc are clean and tight.
All this info is given in good faith. If you can't work out which are the inlet valves and which are the exhaust valves or only have three bent screwdrivers, a sawzall and a big pair of vice grips I DON'T suggest you try it but it is easily within the ken of anybody with enough mechanical aptitude to turn on a tap without hurting themselves. I DO though state that if you screw up it is YOUR fault, not mine. so consider carefully.
