• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

8V TECH: Valve Adjust How-To

If you set the clearances at standard cold, 0.1mm you get 'x'
If you set them slightly hot you get 'x'+ when they're cold
So when they get to normal running temp they would be a little slack, not tight so would not induce weaR.
Just a piont of observation,
Trolls unite.
 
if you let trolls do this, you'll probably get zero slack, and a petrified engine as soon as it catches the 1st ray of sunlight!
 
That's the trouble with trolls, some get too much sunlight.
My dealer today said the Griso 8v had the same problem at the start, exactly the same problem, so I'll wait for Guzzi's reply on this one.
Good pic's Pete. Thanks.
 
Gary wrote:
My dealer today said the Griso 8v had the same problem at the start, exactly the same problem, so I'll wait for Guzzi's reply on this one.
Click to expand...
And which all-knowing dealer would that be then?
Seems odd to me that if this were the case, there have been absolutely no cases mentioned on any Guzzi forum.
 
Been out for a ride today - first bit of sun and temps above 0 - tagged onto the end of a cuple of big hondas out for a run, enjoyed the sprint but I was enjoying it too much and went through the red line on one occassion, when I stopped the top end was very rattely - oh no I am wondering if I have broken it...

Sound is coming from the right side though if I listen long enough it is coming from everywhere...

What do I do next apart form take it to my dealers who is 50 odd miles away and doesn;t speak a word of English and I don't speak very much French beyond ordering a coffee and a sandwhich.
 
Hi Nomad

On my first bike I was about 60 miles from home when I noticed a top end rattle.
It was coming from the left head. I decided to ride it to the dealers, as I rode it got louder until when I arrived it was a definate nock.
Going fast or slow made no differance it was just a loud nock. It was the follower cup to the cam on 1 cam only.
On the 2nd bike which I am still riding was and still is different.
The noise is a rattle, it cannot be heard at standstill. It developes at between 2800 and 3800rpm. I appeares to vanish under load above 4500rpm comletely. Is sounds like throwing a hand full of gravel on to a tin shed roof.
That was 1000 miles ago. It has been stripped an checked out twice, it has not as yet got any worse.

You are under warrenty take it to MG main dealer. MG appare to be honouring all top end warrenty claims and know to the problems with some UK bikes.
I believe as yet no other bikes have been affected.

What is your noise like?


Loftyjohn
 
Nomad, you shouldn't be able to ride through the red line. The rev limiter should cut in, unless it's set too high. You can alter it in the main menu, mine is set to 7750rpm and locks out at that. That equates to an indicated speed of 132mph .
 
Hmmm? You sure you aren't talking about the shift light, Gary? I'd be amazed if one could tinker with something important like the rev limiter.
 
Ok in the manual it's called the gear shift. It can be set from 6000 to 8500. If you set it to 7500 it shows a warning triangle at that limit but wont rev past it. At full throttle on the straight I could not get above 7750 revs.
 
Gary wrote:
Ok in the manual it's called the gear shift. It can be set from 6000 to 8500. If you set it to 7500 it shows a warning triangle at that limit but wont rev past it. At full throttle on the straight I could not get above 7750 revs.
Click to expand...

Errr. No, sorry. As Rene suggests all it is is an indicator to suggest you are due to change gear. You can happily rev right past it to where the RL cuts in. I have no idea where that actually is as I've never hit it, I see little point in chasing revs that high. I do know that I have mine set to 7,500 and have happily pulled beyond 8,000 without the limiter cutting in.

Pete
 
yes the limiter cut in I was quite surprised because I didn't realise I was reving so high - yes the light comes on but I rarely rev that high usually just to 6.5k

I will put it on a trailer and drive it to the MG dealership in Ussel in the New year - off to Spain for a week tomorrow and then the UK for xmas. If I have time I may ring them when I get back from Spain, I am sure it will be covered under warranty and am not too worried about that, the bike has only got 4000kms on the clock and before this ride it purred like a kitten very nice and smooth.

My main worry is that I pourchased the bike in the UK and am taking it to A French dealership - luckily I payed them a visit a couple of weeks ago to introduce myself ;) and asking if I was okay to use him for my servicing and any warranty issues, He was surprised I had taken the time to do that and was happy to gain a new customer, Hopefully he will sort me out.

I am not too worried about the bike being off the road so much as I have 2 other bikes to play with. I am concerned that this will happen again when I am a long way from home... :S

I still love the bike the wife thinks I am bonkers but I am very relaxed about the whole thing, Had I not seen the threads describing this I would probably ride through the noise until I destroyed the engine believing it to just be cam tensioner rattle or valve clearence needing adjustment. But I do need to remind my self it isn't a bullett proof Jap bike that it is somthing to cherrish and take care of :*
 
Just a note, I too dont normally ride to the line. When the bike was new it didn't go over 4000rpm for the first 4000 miles, and now rarely goes past 5500/6000. Just now and again I gotta hit the limiter in every gear, that's how I found the top speed to be 132mph. If the limiter was raised to 8000, then perhaps 135 (indicated) may be achievable.
 
It is interesting to note how varied this problem is, in that it onle occurs occasionally.
I was talking to PAul, of Corsa Italiana the other day. He has sold a few 8 valves, and had not heard of this problem, let alone had a bike back.
I do know that they do religiously check tappet clearences at all services though, including at the PDI.

But another thought.
As each cam opens two valves, the loading on the cam/cam follower is doubled. So have they got the correct strength valve springs, or are there variations in these springs perhaps?
 
Thanks a lot of the great tutorial Pete. Just finished my 09 Stelvio. Curiously I was unable to find any definitive markings on the flywheel so I used your technique instead to locate TDC on comp. stroke. The whole process is basically identical to all the other Guzzis I have worked on so I was in a good comfort zone.

Anyway here is what i found:

right cylinder intake before adjustment: .18mm/.08mm
right cylinder exhaust before adjustment: .18mm/.19mm

left cylinder intake before adjustment: .18/.18
left cylinder exhaust before adjustment: .21/.21

Intakes reset to .10mm, exhaust to .15mm

Hooked up to Twinmax and balance was close enough i did not bother to change. TPS was right on the money according to VDSTS.

Saturday dealer will put the new fueling map on the bike, assuming it is not already in there.
 
It looks like your valve clearances got larger instead of smaller. Am I reading this correctly? How many miles are on the bile?
 
They must set them loose at the factory to allow for some bedding in via hammer. I've yet to see one that was anywhere near close out of the box. No 'Miles' issue, just conservatism at the factory.

Pete
 
If they set them loose at the factory, then maybe that explains the first service at 932 miles. In other words, if they are already compensating for the clearances tightening up during the break in period, then maybe we don't have to worry so much about the valves seating quickly and the clearances getting too tight before the first service.

I don't know, just a thought....
 
Had an early first valve clearance check/adjust today. Bike has 650km on the odometer and the clearances measured before the adjustment as follows:-

Left Cylinder
Exhaust valves 0.16/0.16
Intake valves 0.11/0.11

Right Cylinder
Exhaust valve 0.15/0.14
Intake valves 0.12/0.10

I only adjusted one of the RHS Intake valve from 0.12 to 0.10 and left the rest for the next clearance check.

Looks good to me :mrgreen:

Thanks for the instructions Pete.

PDSCN6552.jpg
 
At 3500km I was hearing excesive ticking sound from the engine and assumed that the valves needed adjustment.
So I opened up the covers and sure enough they were off a bit.
At the intakes 5 / 6 thou and the exhausts 7 / 8 thou ...... with engine still warm.

I'll wait till tomorrow when the engine has cooled down to check the gaps but was wondering at TDC rocker arms are loose and jingling back and forth ...... with all this play what is the tolerance?
Spec say Intake should be 4 thou and Exhaust should be 6 thou

As far as go / no go ........should I adjust Intake 4 thou go / 5 no go? and Exhaust 6 thou go / 7 no go?
I will have to check them again before 10000km but for now should I adjust them this tight?

Update:
I checked them (after a day) and the intakes were 5 thou go / 6 no go and exhaust were 7 thou go / 8 no go
(The nuts of a couple of adjuster screws were not as tight)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top