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8V TECH: Valve Adjust How-To

Well done, just the same on BMW's.

Valve check ?
Was the Stelvio 1200 4valves, not a bike with hydraulic valve adjustments ?

Slekke
 
Re: Re:8V TECH: Valve Adjust How-To by Pete R.

pete roper said:
My advice to people is to get their shop to check them, (Or do it themselves!) at the first service at 800Km/500 Miles then again at 5,000 and then again at 10,000. My GUESS is that after this 10,000Km checks will be perfectly sufficient. I intend to keep checking mine more regularly so I can form some sort of idea of what is 'Normal'. if people are willing to trust my judgement on that it should be a good baseline.

Pete

Thanks for this, Pete. I'm glad I read this thread. My NTX tappets were (presumably) done at the first service but, in light of this thread, I checked them today at 4200km. The exhausts were OK (one was a bit tight but had clearance) but the inlets has ZERO clearance. Reckon I'll check 'em again when I change the oil at 5000km, just to be sure.

BTW, my manual has/had first service at 1500km.
 
Re: Re:8V TECH: Valve Adjust How-To by Pete R.

pete roper said:
My advice to people is to get their shop to check them, (Or do it themselves!) at the first service at 800Km/500 Miles then again at 5,000 and then again at 10,000. My GUESS is that after this 10,000Km checks will be perfectly sufficient. I intend to keep checking mine more regularly so I can form some sort of idea of what is 'Normal'. if people are willing to trust my judgement on that it should be a good baseline.
Pete

Its almost like clock work Pete
I had them checked at 800km .....wasn't told if they were loose or not but at 3500km I was hearing excesive ticking from the engine and assumed that the valves needed adjustment......sure enough they were off a bit. (loose)
This week I was hearing again excesive ticking and sure enough they were loose again at 8500km.

Just finished adjusting the valves, balancing the TB's and reseted the TPS. (Much smoother)

Should they be tighting up or loosing up with time?
 
Re: Re:8V TECH: Valve Adjust How-To by Pete R.

DanPez said:
Should they be tighting up or loosing up with time?

Better to go loose. If they get tight it is an indication of valve seat erosion.
 
Re: Re:8V TECH: Valve Adjust How-To by Pete R.

john zibell said:
DanPez said:
Should they be tighting up or loosing up with time?
Better to go loose. If they get tight it is an indication of valve seat erosion.

See I would have thought intake loose and exhaust tight ....with time. (Exhaust Heat, expansion, metal grade)
Thats the "Technologist" in me thinking :)
Thanks John
 
I adjusted the valves this morning. Last adjustment/check was 10,000km (6,250miles) ago.

All valves within spec expect the exhaust valves of cylinder #2 (the one in front of the right knee).

Both valve clearances close up by 0.06mm comparing to the clearances measured 10,000km ago, that’s quite significant considering the recommended clearance is 0.15mm, that’s 40% in reduction :blink:

Here's the valve clearance record of those 2 exhaust valves in question since new:-

640km - 0.15mm & 0.14mm (no adjustment made)
3000km - 0.16mm & 0.15mm (no adjustment made)
13000km - 0.10mm & 0.09mm (today's finding)

Should I worry?

Phang
 
No, that's why you need to check 'em from time to time. No ideaon the reason for a sudden change but if the bike is still running fine and nothing is out of the ordinary? why worry? I don't!!!! :mrgreen:

Pete
 
It is very reassuring to hear that from you Pete. The engine runs like a top, I have set the clearances a hair on the loose side. I guess it is good for another 10,000km.

Recommended clearance : 0.15mm
Cylinder 1 inner exhaust : 0.16mm
Cylinder 1 outer exhaust : 0.16mm
Cylinder 2 innner exhaust : 0.16mm
Cylinder 2 outer exhaust : 0.16mm

Recommended clearance : 0.10mm
Cylinder 1 inner intake : 0.10mm
Cylinder 1 outer intake : 0.10mm
Cylinder 2 inner intake : 0.11mm
Cylinder 2 outer intake : 0.11mm

Both of the upper spark plug tunnel tube o-rings were cut by Luigi in the factory. I spotted it when I removed the rocker cover for the very first time. It didn’t leak for the past 13,000km but I took the opportunity to replace them this time.

The size is 26mm x 2.5mm

Part #9 in the diagram
sparkplugtunnel.jpg


PDSCN6832.jpg


PDSCN6834.jpg


Phang
 
mojohand said:
"A tappy tappet is a happy tappet," as they say :)

Unfortunately Mojo in the case of the new motor, especially the A5 this isn't the case. The cams, for a 4V are very radical. They also have very short, if any, quietening ramps. set the clearances too large and you risk the tappets hammering the flanks of the cam to buggery. With the 8V quiet is good. Noisy is bad!!!!

Pete
 
Pete.....thanks a lot for taking the time to post this.I'm at 1400mi and taking the 2010Stevio to a dealer I sort of trust for the first check.For the future this looks like a great resource.I was thinking a 4 valve head might be more complicated but it appears pretty straight forward :)
 
doug45 said:
Pete.....thanks a lot for taking the time to post this.I'm at 1400mi and taking the 2010Stevio to a dealer I sort of trust for the first check.For the future this looks like a great resource.I was thinking a 4 valve head might be more complicated but it appears pretty straight forward :)

Well they are straight forward just 2 more of them on each side without having to find TDC for "each" one. Mine have not been adjusted at the 3500 mile mark, spot on.
 
Finally gonna do my own valve job. Griso 8v - Intakes are on carb side (back) and both frwd are exhaust valves?
I cant find any diagrams of the engine that would say otherwise and I havnt taken the covers off yet so it may seem a silly question but want to be sure I am right before I open it up. The nearest Guzzi dealer is a long ways away and I have only done wheels, tires and fluids on my other bikes but the Guzzi looks to be nice and simple for valve check.
Thanks
 
New Guzziast said:
Finally gonna do my own valve job. Griso 8v - Intakes are on carb side (back) and both frwd are exhaust valves?
I cant find any diagrams of the engine that would say otherwise and I havnt taken the covers off yet so it may seem a silly question but want to be sure I am right before I open it up. The nearest Guzzi dealer is a long ways away and I have only done wheels, tires and fluids on my other bikes but the Guzzi looks to be nice and simple for valve check.
Thanks

You are CORRECT. Look at page 1, the photo where Pete talks about using a straw to feel the top of the piston. You can see the 2 intake valves on the right, and the 2 exhaust valves on the left. Just take your time and follow the directions step by step. This is important as nobody experienced will be there to watch over your shoulder.

Good Luck. I have found servicing my own motorcycles over the years has been one of the most satisfying aspects of the motorcyclist experience for me. I hope you do too! :)
 
Perfect. Thank You very much.

Will be doing check in a couple weeks when i have days off.
I agree, the more mtce I do on my bikes the more I enjoy them as well and the more confidence one has when riding as well.
 
And I am finally going to do mine today. Hit the 6K mile mark after the first service that Guzzi Steve did at Rider's Hill in March.

While I'm doing this (it takes me hours, but that's just me), I noticed that the Norge 8V GT service manual says the gaps are .15/intake & .20/exhaust. Has this been taken up before somewhere? I hat to be asking this kind of question while my valve covers are off. :(

7888405918_d864b02026_o.png


NVER MIND: SEE https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/topic. ... 176&hilit=
 
pete roper said:
AA motor uses six and eight rather than four and six. Follow the book.

So what does my 2011 SE call for, Guzzisteve calls it the half breed Newer cam, old adjusters ?

I got it all apart now am wondering what should I adjust it to. Found them at .004 10mm and .006 15mm been that way since I got it, It has always been spot on with no adjusting needed. Help me in my quandary.
 
Check my valves last night with 8000km on the clock (still early but wanted to do it before winter). Right side slightly tight, Left side spot on. Used the straw technique (use a zip tie and works fine) to find TDC on the compression cycle (valves closed and shaky rocker). I kept looking for the TDC on the fly wheel but did not really see any obvious markings (eye sight may be going). Was expecting to see a "T. What does the mark look like??
 
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