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Aftermarked Voltage Regulator Rectifier

Hi, I have a SP of 1980 vintage and I used the diode board and solid state regulator from Euro Motoelectrics and it works like a champ. Voltage is up @ idle and more consistant across the rev range. He provided fast shipping and some good tech advice over the phone. Hope this helps.
 
CzDaveC said:
Hi, I have a SP of 1980 vintage and I used the diode board and solid state regulator from Euro Motoelectrics and it works like a champ. Voltage is up @ idle and more consistant across the rev range. He provided fast shipping and some good tech advice over the phone. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

That would be this regulator http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/produc ... lash-p.htm Not the one he provided a link to.
 
I just installed the Electrosport voltage reg/rec unit on my Bosch-equipped 850-T this morning.
The Euromoto Electrics unit uses the Electrosport unit, only with a modified wiring harness. The stock Electrosport model has very long wires from the voltage reg/rec to the alternator...you could install it way back by the battery if you wanted. The EME adds some gang connectors to make a better fit and for easier on/off.

Cheers
Sean
 
Personally I would never use a combo black box regulator rectifier for the simple reason if it fails you are upshitscreekwithoutapaddle. The rectifier is highly reliable and easily repaired in east nowhere - the replacement rectifiers offered by Euro and others are no doubt better than the OEM and also pretty cheap.

Solid state regulators are also cheap and again if they break in east nowhere you can find a replacement or wire it so the rotor is always energized when riding and get yourself home.

No doubt the black box units are pretty reliable but I don't think the reduction in clutter worth the lack of fixability IMO
 
To TheOtherSean:

How on earth do you install a single phase Electrosport rectifier in the 3 phase Bosch system on the 850T and get it to work like a champ?? Some details please?

Bill
 
T Bill said:
To TheOtherSean:

How on earth do you install a single phase Electrosport rectifier in the 3 phase Bosch system on the 850T and get it to work like a champ?? Some details please?

Bill
Click to expand...

Electrosport has a reg/rec for the Bosch systems, and another model for the later single phase charging systems.
Here is the one I installed.

HTH
Sean
 
To TheOtherSean:

Thanks for details, didn't see that when I looked before. Any idea whether the new regulator controls voltage by varying field current, or if it just runs field at max and uses a shunt regulator on the output, where it dumps excess power as heat across a zener diode or similar? I might try one of these.
 
T Bill said:
To TheOtherSean:

Thanks for details, didn't see that when I looked before. Any idea whether the new regulator controls voltage by varying field current, or if it just runs field at max and uses a shunt regulator on the output, where it dumps excess power as heat across a zener diode or similar? I might try one of these.
Click to expand...


Good question. Unfortunately I don't have an answer.
 
I think typically it is just a transistor that turns on and off to provide the necessary voltage at the rotor i.e. it turns on when below the preset charge voltage and off when above. They don't get hot so no zener like on old british iron!
 
What sort of air flow do these Electrosport units need? Similarly, what about the Dyna Electronic ignition units, do they need lots of air or would they be Ok in that area under the seat?

Thanks, Chad.
 
We're drifting off topic, but I had a Dyna mounted behind the side cover on my 850T, and it did OK heatwise. It went intermittent on me, and stranded me in Alma Wi. When I returned, and was taking it out and reinstalling the points, I realized the problem was due to fact that it depended on a a ring of foil on the sensor PCB making ground contact with the aluminum distributor(sic) case, and it had corroded. Frankly I don't think they're worth using. The bike runs just as well with the old points. Since we were really talking about voltage regulators, if one is worried about not making enough electrical power, the Dyna is a bad bet, since you can't set the dwell, and it wastes power keeping the coils energized way longer than necessary(high duty cycle). This is a design flaw that they advertise as a feature.

If you really want a Dyna, I'd use the amplifier version that uses the points to gate switching transistors, removing the high current load from the points, but retaining the ability to set dwell. That way if the Dyna box goes paws up, the points are still installed, and it's easy to bypass the Dyna box and get back on the road.
 
more on thesec combined units.
I have installed one on my LM5 ('88) along with an mUnit from motogadget.

The orange wire from the R/R, where EXACTLY do i conect it (switch is what I am told) I contected it to the mUnit AUX terminal which is powered from the switch, but everything I rev the bike the mUnit cuts out.
If I disconect the orange R/R wire the bike runs fine and the mUnit has not issues, BUT the battery will nort charge.


Any help in finding a way to connect the orange wire properly appreciated.
 
Squeak said:
more on thesec combined units.
I have installed one on my LM5 ('88) along with an mUnit from motogadget.

The orange wire from the R/R, where EXACTLY do i conect it (switch is what I am told) I contected it to the mUnit AUX terminal which is powered from the switch, but everything I rev the bike the mUnit cuts out.
If I disconect the orange R/R wire the bike runs fine and the mUnit has not issues, BUT the battery will nort charge.


Any help in finding a way to connect the orange wire properly appreciated.
Click to expand...

OK Squeak,

What wires do you have coming from your R/R unit and where do they go on the wiring diagram?

Do you have 2 or 3 yellows from the alternator, ie is it a single or 3 phase alternator and do you have the corresponding R/R unit?

PM me if you wish and I'll send you my email so you can attach the wiring diagrams if I can't work it out by your description.

Cheers

Rod
 
That looks pretty clear to me Squeak.

Hard for me to tell you where to join it into your wiring as I think you have changed a lot so I don't know what connectors you have left but it needs to get 12V+ after the ignition switch. That means 12V when the key or whatever system you have is turned on.

Normal Guzzi ignition switch has 4 wires. 12V+ in, Brown and White are usually powered once the key is on. Green from memory is accessories. Simply got to where the power comes out of the ignition switch and splice into there somewhere. White is power to the coils. I'd leave that alone.

I have no direct experience with theis M gadget thing and the aux position you mention. Sounds like it is supposed to work but there may be diodes that don't like the direction of flow. Attach it to a dumb wire.

If you still have a fuse box then you can link it into a circuit that only has power with the switch on. If not track back to the ignition switch.

Best advice I can give from this far away.

I keep my bikes fairly simple and standard. I've learned from working on the water that I like to stick with technology I understand and can fix. I much prefer something that works at 90% efficiency for 100% of the time than something that works at 100% efficiency for 90% of the time.

Hope it helps
 
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