• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Another leaky Final drive

bimmerheadbri

bimmerheadbri

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Mar 24, 2009
Messages
27
Hey guys,

I have a leaky final drive on my 2008 Breva 750. Unlike alot of the other posts I have read here, this one does not seem to be coming from the front of it and flowing towards the back, but instead is leaking between the final drive and the wheel itself.

Has anyone ever had this same issue before? Any suggestions are welcome.

preview_leakycarcsmaller1.jpg
 
Re: Another leaky CARC

2008 Breva 750 does not have a Carc, It's the same Transmission ( Guzzi's Word ) that's been on Guzzis forever, In the US we would call it the rear end.

Pull the wheel for a futher inspection of the source.


Clipboard02-5.jpg


Clipboard01-16.jpg
 
Re: Another leaky CARC

Thanks for the clarification and the parts diagram.

I was afraid that I would have to pull this off and take a look. Is there anything special I should be looking for?
 
Re: Another leaky CARC

The leak is not that bad. However, I don't like having any kind of oily substance hitting my rear tire. Since I have changed out the fluid it is only leaking like in the photo (mabye because the new oil is still thick and has not thinned out like the old stuff). In any case, I have already felt uncomfortable taking aggressive right handers because of fear of oil on the tire.

I guess I will just have to suck it up and take off the wheel to see what is going on. I think I remember seeing a great set of photos from Anders that outlined the process very well. I'll give that a try first, then get back to all of you with what I find.

I'll do my best to photo document the exercise as well.

Cheers.
 
Re: Another leaky CARC

bimmerheadbri said:
The leak is not that bad. However, I don't like having any kind of oily substance hitting my rear tire. Since I have changed out the fluid it is only leaking like in the photo (mabye because the new oil is still thick and has not thinned out like the old stuff). In any case, I have already felt uncomfortable taking aggressive right handers because of fear of oil on the tire.

I guess I will just have to suck it up and take off the wheel to see what is going on. I think I remember seeing a great set of photos from Anders that outlined the process very well. I'll give that a try first, then get back to all of you with what I find.

I'll do my best to photo document the exercise as well.

Cheers.
Click to expand...


Remove some, I'd bet the level is to high creating excessive pressure, how much did you put in and did you use the top filler hole to put the oil in?
 
Re: Another leaky CARC

I used the rear fill plug to fill it. Only filled it to where it was level with the threads on the filler plug.

I have never removed the top breather plug.
 
Re: Another leaky CARC

bimmerheadbri said:
I used the rear fill plug to fill it. Only filled it to where it was level with the threads on the filler plug.

I have never removed the top breather plug.
Click to expand...

That makes it suspicious to me. That oil is so clean I bet you overfilled. It is only 700 ml -- very little -- and it measures preciely so when you fill from the breather on top. (Careful you don't strip anything!) I'd empty it, measure what comes out and refill. Bet you're over the limit. (Easier than doing the whole tire job, I think.)
 
Thing is, it was leaking before I changed the oil. That's the reason I changed it. I did measure out 700 ml when filling it and also let it drain for a few hours (while I was raking up 20 bags of leaves).

I will try that first, drain it, measure it, then see what happens.

Thanks.
 
You've got two sealings in there. One of them is leaking - or both. If you you're not experienced, I'd recommend to let a shop do the work.
And the filling amount is only 175 cc.
Thats equivalent to the size of a normal glass of red wine.

Not a bottle. ;)
 
Hey Anders,

I actually pulled it all apart last night (thanks to the photos you posted on WildGuzzi). First thing I did was drain the unit. Sure enough, I did NOT have 700 ml in there... more like 170-180 ml, so the level was fine. I was actually surprised how dark it was already though since I just changed it last week. I actually opened up the unit (it wasn't terribly difficult) and took a look at the gaskets in there. I "think" the issue is that one of the gaskets is torn, thus causing the leak. I just really can't see where else it would be leaking from, and the leak I showed in the photo would support my thoughts. I am going to order a couple of new gaskets today.... I should have them by 2011 !!!!!!

Does anyone have the torque specs for the final drive bolts? Both the ones holding the case together AND the nuts holding the drive onto the swingarm?

Here's some photos of the teardown:

Fluid Level
preview_fluid0.jpg


Open Final Drive
preview_innerdrivea0.jpg

preview_driveinternalsb20.jpg


Gaskets
preview_gasketa0.jpg

preview_gasketf0.jpg


I think THIS is the problem
preview_gaskettear0.jpg


Rear view
preview_rear0.jpg


Right side
preview_rearright0.jpg


Left side
preview_rearleft0.jpg
 
Gives a warm and fuzzy feeling finding what could be the error, doesn't it? :D
The nuts are 25 Nm, see if I can find the bolts.

When your'e in there, do check the sealings as well.
 
Thanks Anders,

Checking the seals would mean I have to disassemble one more layer to get to them. Then I would need the torque numbers for those allen bolts as well. There are only 5 of them.
preview_driveinternalsb20.jpg



And what would I be looking for? Seems to me that everything will be covered with oil anyhow... finding a leaky seal will be like finding a needle in a stack of needles.

???????
 
Ok, i removed the 6 bolts on the inside of the drive. Luckily I have an impact wrench, otherwise, these bolts were going nowhere. Once I got these off, I was able to separate the part with the teeth on it, but there is a metal ring on the shaft that will not let me remove it any further.

I could separate it enough to look inside (not that I know what I was looking for). I counted 17 ball bearings in the seal...I think I read somewhere that I should have the one with 19...I have no idea.

Anyone take a look at this and give me some more advice. Oh, and now I need the torque specs for the bolts holding on this part of the drive.

preview_drivesealouter0.jpg


preview_drivesealinner0.jpg
 
Pete,

I have tried, if I could find a freakin repair manual for this bike! The only manuals I have found don't detail the final drive repair and the torque specs don't talk about this either. That's why I am here asking all you long time Guzzitsis.

I've taken apart and restored old BMWs so I'm not completely incompetent, just lacking some technicalities about the bike.

Can you either help me out or point me in the direction of a good manual?
 
Sorry, I haven't got any time these days to follow anything anywhere.

But a good shop manual - THE shop manual, that is - covering the whole bike is found here:
http://www.guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/pb/ ... 03_Atel(GB).pdf

You'll also find the torque-numbers needed in there.

Please do donate a few €, for the service provided!
 
This is PERFECT Anders!

Thanks very much. This will make this go so much smoother. Only thing is that I won't be bugging all you Guzzitsis all the time ;)

I will definitely throw a few bucks towards the site.

Thanks, and I will let you know how I get along.
 
Ok. I followed the manual and got the first circlip off, however, I don't have the proper pulled to remove the spacer which would then let me get to the seals. I will reluctantly reassemble the transmission and wait to get my 2 gaskets. Hopefully between that and the breather, my leak will be resolved.

If not, then I'll finally have to bring it to the incompetent boobs at my local dealer. I won't see that thing until 2011!!! Anyhow, here's to hoping.

Thanks to all for the help (you too Pete, I know you just care that I am doing this right). Thanks to Anders for getting me the link to the manual I have wanted since I got my Guzzi.

By the way, I donated to the site as suggested.

Thanks.
 
Brian. The only real obstacle to getting the seal off, (If it is still the same as the earlier boxes, and I think it is.) is the inner race for the needle roller on the flange. While this always used to be a tight fit, cleaning it up thouroughly of oil so that when you hold it and your hand didn't slip and then giving the inside of the hub a hearty whack with a plastic mallet, (So as not to damage the hub.) would usually get it out!

Otherwise just take it to your local machine shop and get them to press it out with knife edges.

Once you're that deep into the box there is no point in NOT doing the inner seal as that is BOUND to be the problem. Do the outer one too, just for safety's sake. I can assure you the leak WON'T be from the gaskets. Oh. And make sure you check the backlash once its all bach together.

Pete
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top