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Axle torque

Hydrolastic

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
105
Location
Pacific NW
I am changing both tires on my California Titanium. The front axle is the updated type where the axle threads into the right fork leg. The service manual calls for 140-150 Nm for the "Nut for front and rear wheel shaft", but that seems excessive for the threads into the fork. My Triumph Thunderbird called for 69 Nm, which is right in the middle of the quoted spec for the V11 LeMans on their forum. Does anyone have the updated specs, maybe for the Cal Vintage?

Thanks,
Dave
 
I will follow this thread with interest as I have just changed the wheels on my California Stone. It has the same arrangement of a threaded left hand fork leg that the spindle screws into, with two pinch bolts at the bottom of the right hand leg to secure the spindle once tightened.
The owner's handbook explains how to change the wheel but provides no torque settings. The workshop manual acknowledges that the two different spindle arrangements exist on different models and VIN #s but only provides the 140 - 150 NM for the nut version.
I guess that as long as it is tight enough to ensure that the spacers etc are all being trapped securely, then the right hand leg pinch bolts should ensure that it stays that way.
 
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Guzzi is famous for inaccurate information in their manuals. Just use your sense of feel and snug up the axle. The pinch bolts will keep if from rotating loose. Remember you don't want it so tight you can't remove the axle later with tool kit tools.
 
Yep, I have discovered the lack of clear direction on most torque specs. I am surprised that they would leave out something as critical as a suspension component. A calibrated hand can be trusted if you've done a few hundred of these, but not going in green. I don't want it to work loose, but I don't want to crack the spacers, damage the fork leg, or anything similar and cause bigger problems. Here's what my research shows with other Guzzi models:

Sport 1100 - 9-10 kg-m, equal 88-98 Nm. 40 mm Marzocchi fork
V11 Sport - 90-100 Nm, 40 mm or 43 mm Marzocchi fork
California 1400 - 80 Nm front and rear

Based on that, I think I'll set it to 90 Nm and call it good. I'll stick with the 140 Nm on the rear axle nut.

Dave
 
If it's any comfort, there have been thousands of them out there with the threaded fork leg spindle arrangement for over twenty years and I have never heard of one coming loose through any of the forums etc.
I suppose that you could always put a spot of blue loctite 243 on the thread, bearing in mind John's comments about being able to remove it with the bike's toolkit in the event of a puncture!
You could also put a spot of white paint on the spindle head and fork leg as they do on the brake rotor bolts. That way you could do a simple visual check to see if it has moved.
 
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Interesting.

I just posted a longwinded -- my specialty :giggle: -- comment in the header-flange-nut-torque-spec thread (https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/exhaust-flange-nuts.16830/page-2#post-162597) before seeing this.

Again, for wheels and peripherals, I have found the service manuals give reasonable Nm numbers for the six Guzzis I've owned (and still have five :)). I use torque wrenches for those. Other fasteners need a touch of common sense before grabbing the 1/2" driver and breaker bar for good measure! :party:

Pinch bolts? What John said. Several folks have had to buy new fork legs by over-tightening those fasteners. :(

Bill
 
Interesting.

Again, for wheels and peripherals, I have found the service manuals give reasonable Nm numbers for the six Guzzis I've owned (and still have five :)).
Bill

You must have gotten lucky with the models you have. As I stated in the original post, the issue here is the fork was updated in 2000, but no torque figures were added for the change. Your '98 EV has all of the original parts for when the manual was developed, so that makes things easier. I have both PDF and hard copy of the EV manual and Section Q supplement for the 2003 models, and no torque figures were updated in either for the axle change, hence my investigating other models built in that time frame with a similar layout for guidance.

I went with 90 Nm and everything went fine. There are also no values for the pinch bolts, front or rear, and Guzziology definitely had a caution for cracked fork legs due to overtightening on the front. I went with 10 Nm for the 6mm pinch bolts on the front (again, reading the generic recommended figures for bolt sizes), but remember only using 30 or so on the rear, as the 45-50 figure for 10mm fasteners seemed high for a pinch bolt.

Dave
 
Front wheel spindle nut torque for the Norge (‘12) the manual says 80 Nm.

Question: changing tires first time on new to me Norge. Is there a special tool needed for that slotted right side (facing) of the axle/spindle? Trying to tighten the nut and it’s all just spinning. (Excuse the question here but couldn’t find any info in a specific search this forum.)
 
Front wheel spindle nut torque for the Norge (‘12) the manual says 80 Nm.

Question: changing tires first time on new to me Norge. Is there a special tool needed for that slotted right side (facing) of the axle/spindle? Trying to tighten the nut and it’s all just spinning. (Excuse the question here but couldn’t find any info in a specific search this forum.)

First... Right and Left are ALWAYS based upon being seated on the motorcycle. This is the industry-wide convention.

Tighten the pinch bolts on the locknut side first and then tighten and torque the locknut. That is one way.

The other way if I remember the axle correctly, is that there is a hole that goes through the axle. You can hold it in place with any drift (punch) that fits in the hole.
 
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Yes the holes and slots in the left end of the spindle are what had me wondering about a special something’er other to hold while getting bolt to correct torque. New bike/diff’rent stuff. But pinch bolts first stop that axle/spindle from tightening at all.? So your plan B seems best. Thanks Scott🤙🏼
 
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This sure is weird way to tighten a wheel axle/spindle Moto Guzzi… Whatever tool fits in these slots and holes, is the only way to tighten it. Nothing holds it while tightening trying to torque the 30mm spindle nut. Have a 2000km tour tomorrow and stuck with something as simple as an untorqued/tightened front wheel. Mama-mia!
Rear wheel is a breeze.
 
it's strange... I just did this a few weeks ago and can't remember having any trouble. I certainly don't have any special tools for this.

then again, I didn't look up any torque values either. maybe the listed value is just excessive?
 
It's not at all hard. You are doing something bizarre.

I double checked the Service Manual and it indeed says to tighten the pinch bolts first, just like I stated. I don't know what you are doing, but it isn't correct.

Screen Shot 2022 10 11 at 20717 PM

Screen Shot 2022 10 11 at 20735 PM
 
It's not at all hard. You are doing something bizarre.

I double checked the Service Manual and it indeed says to tighten the pinch bolts first, just like I stated. I don't know what you are doing, but it isn't correct.

View attachment 27041

View attachment 27042
Well that’s it then, so nothing bizarre at all just procedural by a month old Guzzi noob- I hadn’t see that. When I did tighten them first (usually the last step on my other bikes) but then thought I wouldn’t be able to tighten/torque the spindle properly.
Thanks for pointing me straight.
 
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