Barely Starting.

[Penis Rotor]

The forks are a weird one? Never heard of that being an issue before.

On the non starting the cams weren't removed for some reason were they? If one side has been advanced a tooth it'll still run but bloody hell it makes 'em hard to start and they run bad.

Pete

 

[Toadride]

and forks were worn out.

What do you mean, worn out? Leaking? Actual metal ground up?

When I asked Danny how bad they were (because me pulling on the front wheel detected nothing) he said the bushings and sliding parts were worn beyond tolerances with very noticeable movement.

 

[Toadride]

The forks are a weird one? Never heard of that being an issue before.

On the non starting the cams weren't removed for some reason were they? If one side has been advanced a tooth it'll still run but bloody hell it makes 'em hard to start and they run bad.

Pete

Pete. When I got the bike brand new, home from the dealer I even found the side cover plastic front mounting tabs had been crushed and split by someone ham fisting the bolts on. This was all documented and presented to the dealer who never did another thing about it. I have also pointed this out to Customer Care who have opted to ignore it. So, as for someone messing with the engine? Anything is possible.
And with all these 'deficiencies' I have even tried to reason it out by thinking of the possibility of a customs crew tearing it apart and putting it back together badly. I had suggested this to Danny and he actually asked the Guzzi Powers That Be if any bikes are torn open off the boat. Answer was not that they are aware of.

 

[draidt]

and forks were worn out.

What do you mean, worn out? Leaking? Actual metal ground up?

When I asked Danny how bad they were (because me pulling on the front wheel detected nothing) he said the bushings and sliding parts were worn beyond tolerances with very noticeable movement.

Sorry but my response is ????????????????????????????????????????

where there any symptoms ?

 

[Toadride]

Hey, I could have lived with them the way they were. But not looking a gift horse in the mouth and knowing if I had waited for symtoms they would be telling me, sorry, u should have had this taken care of earlier, I chose for them to do it.

 

[Penis Rotor]

This is beginning to make my brain hurt?

So even through there were no signs that anything was wrong with the forks and no detectable play someone at a shop decided to tear them apart and discovered that they were worn beyond service limits and opted to submit a warranty claim that then took ages to happen and when you got the bike back it would barely start and they told you that that was perfectly OK and you shouldn't worry about it? :shock:

I strongly suggest that you get it to someone who might have quarter of a clue and have it thoroughly examined and un-fucked as far as possible.

I have found that the 2O2 Stelvios are a very sweet thing straight out of the box. Re-flashing the ECU, with or without eliminating the O2 sensors, is just going to introduce another variable that is going to make it harder for anyone but the shop that knows the parameters used to set-up and tune the bike properly. I would of thought that especially on an extended road trip where reliance on dealerships was going to be needed keeping things stock or close to stock would of been wise. If I were in your position I would try and get the machine to one of the known and reputable dealers closest to your current location and try to get the poor thing taken back as close to original as possible. Check the plug caps as suggested by Wayne, check the cam timing. With a re-flashed ECU it may well be that the OBD and Navigator/PADS will see problems and throw up errors that are the result of the re-flash. Unfortunately it is unlikely that anybody apart from the person responsible for the re-flash will know if these alerts are 'Normal' or the result of actual problems that need addressing. It makes things very frustrating. Its like asking a blind person to describe colour.

Pete

 

[Toadride]

No. The way the fork thing happened, Pete, was that when I took the bike to Redline, I asked for new tires and for them to check the front rim for true as I had this wobble. Turned out to be the rotors and when they had the front wheel off they found the fork play. I then had Fasttrixx do the work later when I stopped for a month.
Redline also told me that with the flash, an error code for the O2 sensors would show up but the reflash would work well in conjunction with the O2 sensors. I do let any dealer know all of these facts.

 

[Penis Rotor]

Look, I'm not trying to obfuscate. Its just that I can't understand how in a matter of a few thousand miles a set of forks can stuff their bushes? Unless of course there was no oil in them!

I've just had so few problems, especially with the 2x 02-sensor bikes that I'm amazed. I'm just trying to explore what might be the problems with the poor starting and other issues.

Pete

 

[Toadride]

26 degrees F in Ozona this morn. Worried all night about being stuck in this armpit with a dead bike. Checked the voltage before cranking. 12.3. Got the single crank and let off the key. Tried again and it got past the single crank and spun four or five times before I let off. Remembered one members' reply about opening the throttle a bit in severe cold, tried it and she is now running. Will prolly let her run as I pack up. Gonna be the coldest jaunt yet but, praise Thor. he must be sleeping because there is 0 wind. Unlike yesterdays using me as a punching bag all day :lol:
And away we go.

 

[WayneOrwig]

26 degrees F in Ozona this morn. .

Sounds like fun.

NOT!

:lol:

 

[gdp]

26 degrees F in Ozona this morn. .

Sounds like fun.

NOT!

:lol:

...where th'bloody hell is Ozona?.....

 

[draidt]

26 degrees F in Ozona this morn. .

Sounds like fun.

NOT!

:lol:

...where th'bloody hell is Ozona?.....

 

[canuck1969]

26 degrees F in Ozona this morn. Worried all night about being stuck in this armpit with a dead bike. Checked the voltage before cranking. 12.3. Got the single crank and let off the key. Tried again and it got past the single crank and spun four or five times before I let off. Remembered one members' reply about opening the throttle a bit in severe cold, tried it and she is now running. Will prolly let her run as I pack up. Gonna be the coldest jaunt yet but, praise Thor. he must be sleeping because there is 0 wind. Unlike yesterdays using me as a punching bag all day :lol:
And away we go.

Toad,

Sounding more and more like your battery is on its way out. I have heard of batteries right out of the box be bad, not common, but happens sometimes. Would not surprise me that your 6month battery is going bad. Maintenance free does not mean problem free. May have a low cell in it from the factory or a small short. Maybe when they pulled it out they banged it around and caused some damage. Will still read the right voltage but the cranking amps will be low, especially in cold weather. Between the cold engine, cold fluids, cold battery and low CCA it all fits why it only does it when it is cold. A bad or loose ground could do it also, but you would think you would see some other evidence of it. Look for what makes sense....a bad battery makes sense....at least in my opinion.

If it is a bad battery eventually it will leave you stranded hot or cold. Do yourself a favor and pick up a cheap battery at Wally World or something to get you by and see if it is the problem. Most auto stores will do a free battery test so may want to try that route. AAA will also do one if you have them. At least CAA does so would expect the same.



Good luck and safe travels....your living my dream..... :lol:

 

[Toadride]

Canuck,
Yes I am becoming more and more convinced of that myself. With readings of 12.4 and 12.5 I am wondering what other 2012 NTX batteries are reading. Seems to me it should be up in the 13 or near 13 range.
And I have made it to my friend Pete's and there is a Walmart at Nogales, a short distance. Does anyone have any info on what battery they might carry to fit?

 

[canuck1969]

Canuck,
Yes I am becoming more and more convinced of that myself. With readings of 12.4 and 12.5 I am wondering what other 2012 NTX batteries are reading. Seems to me it should be up in the 13 or near 13 range.
And I have made it to my friend Pete's and there is a Walmart at Nogales, a short distance. Does anyone have any info on what battery they might carry to fit?

Toad. My will normally read 12.6 - 12.8 before I start. 14.0 and change when at cruise. It is not so much what it reads at the start (although 12.3 is definitely low for a supposedly charged battery) as opposed to what it reads when you crank it over. I am trying to remember what mine is when cranking but recall not much lower than 11.8 or so.

As for the replacement. For a quick fix, just make sure the +ve and -ve terminals are on the same side as the existing battery and the CCA are relatively the same, and obviously that it will fit. Will need to be maintenance free. I think if you go the maintenance type (ie. have to fill it) the angle that it is installed at may be an issue and you have no vent hose to drain an overflow.

Good luck

 

[uzidzit]

here is your test of the battery, hook up volt meter to battery, now crank bike while watching voltmeter, if it drops below about 10.5 volts, it is bad change it, or since it is not necc bad. pull the cap strip off and add 10cc distilled water to each cell, re-cap. (just read on guys I know it is a agm battery) now charge out of the bike on a good proper 10% of rate charge overnight. Retry the above test go ride about 60 miles then re-test in the morning, you may be very surprised. I have done this addition to about a dozen agm batteries now and it has extended the life from a minimum of 6 weeks to a battery in a friends gixxer1k that has run for 2 years now, 1/2 a gram of sodium metabisulfate in each cell injection seems to make it last longer as well, your batt should sit at 12.7-13.2V the morning after a ride 12.7 at the temps you mention would be just fine, the voltage you see is a 50-60% charge voltage.

read this:
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2009.pdf

Ps I TOLD YOU NOT TO CHARGE THE AGM IN THE BIKE AFTER WATER ADDITION! some will vent and you do not want that all over the inside of the stelvio. is is a good thing to charge out of the bike 3 sucessive days by the third charge no more water will spit out the vent.

 

[Toadride]

Yep, I have been travelling at least 200 miles a day and am not getting more than 12.5 in her at rest. So, it looks like she is on her way out. Is that warranty?

 

[canuck1969]

Yep, I have been travelling at least 200 miles a day and am not getting more than 12.5 in her at rest. So, it looks like she is on her way out. Is that warranty?

One would think so, but most likely depends on the dealer and their definition of "bad" battery.

Do you think that when the last dealer took out your battery, they put back a different one by accident. Very weird that is all of a sudden started after your last service.

 

[pyoungbl]

Toad, I just did an experiment to give you voltage numbers from my bike.
47F temp.
The battery has been on a DelTran Battery Tender for a long time so I think it is safe to say it is fully charged.
Fluke volt meter connected directly to the battery, no voltage loss through the bike wiring system.
With key off, 13.33 volts
With key on, 12.83 volts
With key on and starter button pushed, momentary drop to 10.9 volts. By momentary I mean that it was so quick that I almost missed it. The bike started in an instant, maybe only one crank revolution.
Running, 14.18 volts.

I'd take the voltage reading you get off the dash as just a general indication of what is going on electrically.

Hope this helps.
Peter Y.

 

[Toadride]

Yep, I have been travelling at least 200 miles a day and am not getting more than 12.5 in her at rest. So, it looks like she is on her way out. Is that warranty?

One would think so, but most likely depends on the dealer and their definition of "bad" battery.

Do you think that when the last dealer took out your battery, they put back a different one by accident. Very weird that is all of a sudden started after your last service.

:lol: No, I don't think that at all. And it's really not weird at all. When the bike went in to the shop it was 70 degrees+ out. When it came out it was 25. Plus it sat for five + weeks.