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Bleeding brakes

I have never had any problems bleeding linked brakes. All i have ever done is jam the peddle down, fill up the master cylinder, check it for the first few hours and leave it over night. Next morning you have perfect brakes. I use the same method for the front as well.
 
I have used pressure bleeders on cars (the only way to do it). Just didnt want to make a bleeder cap for this master cyl. So I spent a little time and drank a few beers. Cool.
Us old guys can enjoy our time.
 
Papasloan

Reminds me of the two bulls chewing the cud together on a rise overlooking the herd. Said the young bull, "Look at all those cows down there. Lets rush down and do a couple." Said the old bull, "Nah. Let's stroll down and do do the lot."

Hurrying is different from speed and effectiveness.

Graham
 
Papasloan wrote:
The master cyl I used is 16mm.
And it works F'n awesome. Had the chance to climb on it hard. Didnt slide the wheel but it was making funny noises. Yeehaw!
Click to expand...

Hi, thanks for that, Warwick :cheer:
 
Holt wrote:
Just so much faster&easier using a comp-air bleeder. You'll do 2 bikes in 10 minutes for a complete change of fluids.
Click to expand...
Try using a commpressed air or vacuum bleeder on the linked system with the proportioning valve, as fitted to the SPIII etc.
There is a one way valve it there which prevents fluid going to the front brake until quite some considerable pressure has built up, more than you would use on a compressed air bleeder.
It's to delay the front brake coming on.
However you can bleed these very effectively using the syringe method referred to earlier.
 
Brian UK wrote:
Holt wrote:
Just so much faster&easier using a comp-air bleeder. You'll do 2 bikes in 10 minutes for a complete change of fluids.
Click to expand...
Try using a commpressed air or vacuum bleeder on the linked system with the proportioning valve, as fitted to the SPIII etc.
There is a one way valve it there which prevents fluid going to the front brake until quite some considerable pressure has built up, more than you would use on a compressed air bleeder.
It's to delay the front brake coming on.
However you can bleed these very effectively using the syringe method referred to earlier.
Click to expand...

I do not, and will hopefully never, own a bike with linked brakes.

Sorry for suggesting a - to me - very easy bleeding method, which works very well. Guess there are many more methods and varieties in brake bleeding than described above; many may work, some even be better, some worse. ;)
Just trying to point out an alternative method to heehoo hasn't got an indoor garage and more time than I have for doing these things.

The very complicated and hideous expensive tool I'm using looks like this

1650.jpg


Works by creating a quite low vaccuum, which will suck brake fluid through the bleeding nipple, while you slowly pour new brake-fluid into the master cylinder beecher; just like when youre doing the old open-push-close job. No cavitation, no bubbles . And no spilling.
And to those who care about that; no brake fluid exposure to humid air for an extended time.
 
I am merely trying to point out some limitations in specific circumstances.

What do you use as a source of compressed air which I assume you also need?
 
Brian UK wrote:
I am merely trying to point out some limitations in specific circumstances.

What do you use as a source of compressed air which I assume you also need?
Click to expand...

Much fuzz on brake-bleeding here. :laugh:

I'm using a small, cheap 230-V €75-at-the-DIY-store-compressor. Good for adjusting tire pressure also. And much more.
 
OK, I have a slightly different question. What's the reason for using an oily liquid that's corrosive? I just played around a bit with a machine designed for calibrating pressure senders, and the liquid used therein is "just" hydraulic oil. Nothing corrosive or that degrades in time in there!
 
I believe normal mineral oils would get too thick in the winter.
There are a few cars (Audi?) that actually do call for mineral oil.
 
Wayne Orwig wrote:
I believe normal mineral oils would get too thick in the winter.
There are a few cars (Audi?) that actually do call for mineral oil.
Click to expand...

Not Audi. They are using a 5W-30 very synthetic long-life oil nowadays.

Brake fluid isn't oil at all. It's an glycolbased liquid. (triethylene glycol monomethyl ether & additives)
 
Found it.

Citroen uses or used mineral oil, called LHM fluids.

Should have known they would be different. :eek:hmy:
 
That LHM fluid is shared with the suspension system on many Citroens. On their conventional suspension vehicles they specify standard DOT4 brake fluid.
 
All this talk of brake bleeding made me feel guilty, so today i did the back brake on the B11.
Dead easy to do, and boy, loads of bubbles came out!
What i thought was a half decent brake is now like a ships anchor, and rock hard!
Can't wait to do the front if it improves them as much! :)

Of course i've just fitted the Stelvio handguards, perfect timing! :lol:
 
If you are going to bleed the front brakes too I recommend giving them a good clean up at the same time.
Simply remove the pads and give them a good going over with some brake cleaner using an old toothbrush, then do the some to the callipers, pins and such. Put a little copper grease on the pistons and on back face of the pads, put it all back together again and bleed as normal.
I do my brakes between each service, it makes one hell of a difference.
 
Brian, does that mean Rolls Royce also uses LHM fluids on some of their models? ;)

In reaction to Joe's post: someone on the previous board won a right to a Brembo training day, where he was told that brake cleaner should not be used on the calipers. I can't remember if that applies to all models, or just the "Gold" series mounted on most (?) current Guzzis.
 
Wayne Orwig wrote:
Found it.

Citroen uses or used mineral oil, called LHM fluids.

Should have known they would be different. :eek:hmy:
Click to expand...

I should have thought of that! I was practically raised in Citroën D-models; my father had 6 or 7 of them in a row since the mid-50's.
Always some work to do on those cars, he was a real DIY man! :laugh:
 
And worth it they were, too. Cars usually don't mean anything to me, except for a number of Citroëns (up to and including the SM), and the DS range is special. The DS Cabrio is one I'd get my car drivers license for... I suppose ye all know that DS stands for Déesse, French for goddess? ;)
 
Bleeding brakes 101

Howdy
Trying to bleed my rear brake on my Jackal for the first time and having trouble. Can you rundown the basics, I dont have any special tools, and my GF isnt handy to push down the pedal, so is a one man job possible? Do you loosen the vent first, then push down the pedal? Seems like we pushed a resevoir full of fluid thru the rear caliper, and its still mushy. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
DINO
 
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