• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Brake caliper shims for V65

Julian Sudano

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Jul 25, 2021
Messages
61
Location
Los Angeles, CA
V65 SP 1984


I had one of my front calipers off the other day to service my speedo drive gear and discovered that one of the bolts that holds the caliper to the fork, was slightly bent. Looking at the parts diagram online, I realized I was missing the spring washers, as well as the shims ( #14 ) MG caliper parts shown in the diagram, on ALL of my damned calipers. Sadly lots of these "not crucial to make her run" parts have vanished.

I see there are 2 sizes of shims available - 0.5 & 0.8mm thickness that sit between the fork and the caliper body.

Can anyone help me by explaining which thickness is needed and are they strictly necessary as the brakes function well enough? I'd like to bring the bike back to original condition.

Thanks as ever for the feedback!
 
V65 SP 1984


I had one of my front calipers off the other day to service my speedo drive gear and discovered that one of the bolts that holds the caliper to the fork, was slightly bent. Looking at the parts diagram online, I realized I was missing the spring washers, as well as the shims ( #14 )View attachment 24934 shown in the diagram, on ALL of my damned calipers. Sadly lots of these "not crucial to make her run" parts have vanished.

I see there are 2 sizes of shims available - 0.5 & 0.8mm thickness that sit between the fork and the caliper body.

Can anyone help me by explaining which thickness is needed and are they strictly necessary as the brakes function well enough? I'd like to bring the bike back to original condition.

Thanks as ever for the feedback!

Hi Julian,

I don’t have this particular model in front of me, but I’m 99% certain that this wave washer and spacer are really dimensionally insignificant.

I believe their intended purpose is (1) the wave washer keeps tension on the bolt to prevent loosening while the other washer (shim) allows tensioning to occur uniformly by providing a sliding surface. For the life of me I cannot see where 0.3 mm difference is needed it the location of the caliper.

To me it seems unimportant as far as location / distancing of the caliper itself from the fork leg goes.

Given your functioning of the brakes, this would seem to be confirmed. I also looked up the factory service manual and there is no reference to this at all.

I would not fret it at all honestly.

These brake calipers are very basic design and not high tech in any way.
 
Last edited:
Well, there you go Julian.

Obviously, I was mistaken and for sure, V700Steve has more experience with this really old small block motorcycle.

Aligning a stock caliper to a stock rotor is something that hasn’t been done in 40+ years. 😆

Thanks V700Steve! I love learning something new everyday.
 
Last edited:
If you look, the split line on caliper should be in center of rotor. This is how I adjust to what I need for shims. Bolt up w/no pads, check centers measurement, install shim the correct thickness to center caliper.
Thanks - that would make sense.
 
On an Aluminum I put mag wheels on I had to take off 2mm on ea leg for it to be centered. Machine shop were good, I didn't have to separate forks from legs.
 

Attachments

  • alum 4.JPG
    alum 4.JPG
    11.6 KB · Views: 2
Another easy way to perfectly center your caliper over the center of the disc, is take out the mounting bolts and squeeze your brake lever. If the caliper is not centered, it will move to one side of the disc or the other, either moving over against the mounting lugs, or away and leaving a small gap between the caliper and the mounting lugs. That is what the shims are for. If the caliper moves toward and hits the lugs and is much out of the center, it will flex the disc under hard braking. That condition is a lot harder to correct. Conversely, if it leaves a gap, shim it!
 
Back
Top