• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

brake light flicker ... bad contact?

RJVB

GT Reference
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
1,936
Location
Paris
I organised and participated in a group ride last Friday (report forthcoming!). Among different pleasurabilities, one of the participants told me I probably have a bad contact somewhere, as my brake light flickers regularly when I ride over bumps.

I've checked and wiggled the obvious cables and connectors under the seat, and the black sensor that is fixed (solidly, on mine) under the brake pedal, without provoking any flashing of the taillight. So presuming it's not simply a matter of my foot touching the pedal (or the pedal moving on its own), how would one go about finding such a bad contact? It's not like I could lift the bike and let it bounce on the rear wheel... ;)

Thx,
René
 
I would check the brake return spring on the foot peddle to ensure there is adequate tension on the switch, allowing it to close fully. Power to he brake lites can only come from the front or rear brake switches. Being that both switches are exposed to the elements, dirt, water, bug guts, ect could contaminate the contacts inside the switches or keep them from closing properly. You could try and use a commercial electrical contact spray cleaner ( sold at most electronic and electrical stores). You could also try a bit of compressed air ( low pressure please) to blow out any debris from the contacts.
Only owning my Norge for 1 week and still waiting for the service manual, I can't comment further as to another source for this problem. Perhaps another rider on this forum has run into this issue and can offer some advice.

Good luck
SPEEDY
 
The front switch is sealed, if I'm not mistaken. But it's true that it may have received a blow during my RHS crash which tore off the brake lever completely...

What kind of a switch is it under the rear brake pedal, anyway? It almost looks like the circuit goes through the pedal?!
 
Rene;
The front brake switch is activated by the lever moving away from the switch allowing the button to come out and make the internal contact close. if your lever is loose and not holding enough pressure against the button, then that would explain what is happening. The picture shows the switch the bright object on top is the lever arm that moves away to operate the switch. Hope this helps BTW this assembly came off the parted out Norge on E-Bay. I managed to get 20 items, cost me about 500 US but I got 4 or 5 times the value if I had to buy them from Guzzi.

P5252537.jpg
 
Thanks Daniel. I'd have to go have a look to see what exactly you mean, but you could well be right. The lever did seem a bit lose to my taste. Still, I think I tried wriggling the lever and not seeing any flashing...
 
Is there any adjustments on the switch that you could see? His switch could just need to be re-adjusted. You will hear an audible "click" when the brake lever is pulled in and again when you release the lever. ( This is the sound of the micro switch opening and closing) Note:The brake lever should have a bit of travel before the switch will activate.
 
Check the adjustment on the shaft for the rear brake pedal is not too short. This will allow the brake pedal to sit lower, but it will wave up and down with the bumps in the road and switch the brake light off and on.

I tried this adjustment on my Breva to lower the brake pedal, but had to return it to its normal position after others were commenting how much braking they thought I was doing.
 
I had the same problem.

Proved to be a faulty front break switch.

Pull off one of the wires that go to the front switch, then get a friend to follow you (not too close) to check if it flickers still?

I couldn't take the switch to bits to attempt a fix.
 
I guess the rear brake switch could go faulty too ... and it doesn't look one can pull any wires on that one!

Kiwi Dave: where's that adjustment?
 
Follow the mechnical action from the brake pedal to the master cylinder. There's a rod (part number AP8121222) that has an adjustment on the end. There should be little or no slack otherwise the brake pedal will bounce up and down and activate the brake switch.

You should be able to emulate this if yours is out of adjustment by shaking the brake pedal gently and see if the light flickers. If it doesn't then your problem is elsewhere.
 
I was just going to ask about this.
My front brake lever has some wiggle in it, and the switch is quite sensitive... so I can see on bumpy roads the rear brake light flashing. I was going to ask if there is some adjustment before I get in there and see if I can adjust it. The lever has always sort of "wiggled" on my bike. A bit like it needs a washer in there or something to stabilize it.
 
I'm tempted to say the problem might be at my brake lever, and not at the pedal.
I didn't find the adjustment, though. I can just see a horizontal T or I-shaped profile that's attached to the lever, and that disappears behind the footrest plate. I don't think I saw anything move behind the lower fairing either, but the pedal seems "solid" enough.

I'll try to remember watching the tail light next time I take her off the centre stand, with the contact on. If anything's really too shaky, I should see a flash then, I guess.

Greg: how on earth do you see your taillight flicker on bumpy roads??
 
Back
Top