• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Brakes locked

motoguzziv50

Just got it firing!
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
3
Location
ruidoso, NM
I'm stuck, my V50 rear and left front brakes lockup when the temp go up during the day. They release when the temp goes down, The problem started without any assistance from me. I ride the frequently, replaceing the fluid about once a year. After the problem srarted I removed dis-assemled/re-assembled the rear master, did not see anything wrong with it. bleed the lines, etc. Any ideas?
 
Make sure the M/C piston is returning fully. If not the seals may have swelled due to differing brake fluids.

Pressure is building up so there is air in there somewhere. Bleed throughly by cracking all the joints from the M/C to the calipers.

Ensure the 2nd feed hole in the M/C is clear.

Just a few suggestions.
 
Fairly common in automotive applications. Brake hose may be swelling and pinching on the inside acting like a check valve, hose will look great from the outside. Next time they are locked up try breaking the hose connection closest to the master cylinder or splitter first. If the hose is collapsed on the inside the brake will stay locked because the hose is not allowing the fluid to flow back. Next brake the connection at the caliper. If it is still locked then the problem is in the caliper.

It actually may not be heat related but more "use related". How often do you sit on a "cold" bike & pump the brakes? However when you are riding you are constantly using them without thinking about it. For instance the next time you leave the house count how many times you have hit the brakes before the first stop sign at the end of the street. A collapsed brake hose will not close up all the way so as the bike "cools" down the fluid slowly seeps back into the master cylinder so it appears as though temperature is playing a part. I have seen hoses that would stay locked up over night.

So before the next ride just try sitting on the bike and pumping the brakes a lot to see if they will lock up. If they do follow the steps above.

I would appreciate you posting what you find out so others can benefit.
 
Back
Top