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Breva 1100 07 front brakes drag after tire change

Posting videos again as tobinh mentioned "private" setting. They're all "unlisted" now which I think means you can follow the link. Sorry, never made and posted video before so that's new, too. Never had a problem with brakes after a tire change either. Recap action to this point.
Removed wheels for tire replacement. Don't remember any brake issues at that point.
Re-mounted wheels and left front caliper mounting tabs didn't have good clearance.
Brakes drag. Removed calipers and checked for piston movement. Depress by hand, extend with brake lever. Fluid was flowing back to MC at that point.
Loosened axle bolts and pried the left fork out and caliper mounted normally .
Pumped up the brakes and tightened axle bolts. Wheel was off the ground
Brakes drag. Removed calipers and cleaned with brake cleaner and toothbrush including exposed portion of piston. Blocked the rear pistons to force the front pistons out somewhat to clean them. Pads were removed and cleaned, too, as well as the pad mounting pins. Depressed the pistons by hand and remounted calipers. No rub at that point.
Pumped up the brakes.
Brakes rub. Setup for a week. Shot the video.
Odd thing is the rear brake last weekend was dragging similar to the front. This weekend it's normal. And the front is dragging more if anything and the fluid level in the MC is down into the sight glass.
My first Guzzi so I'm not familiar with it's idiosyncrasies if that's what it is. Seems like maybe fluid return is maybe blocked or not working properly. Maybe the master cylinder? Or maybe an exorcism?



 
Rear sounds fine.

The front is wrong. It sounds metal to metal to my ears, that you have the pad clips installed wrong / upside down?

Check that first as it does not sound like pad rub to me.
 
No, the right side wheel spacer was in place. No wheel spacer on the left side. Evidently, the left side fork leg can pull inward when installing the axle. Slight pry moved it outward and it stayed in position.
 
Scott, yes it does sound awful but the pads are in correctly, pad side to rotor. The only time I've heard a sound like that is when the pads were worn out. Even then when pressure was released the sound goes away. But not in this case. I'm thinking the master cylinder is not allowing return.
 
You said the wheel spacer is in place. Now, remove the front fender and wheel again. Be sure to grease the front axle before you install. It should go in place with just hand pressure. Any more any you will misalign the forks. Tighten the axle and don't do any brake application or bouncing prior. Now snug the pinch bolts (I like to remove and use anti seize on these screws). Next install calipers. Last iInstall the front fender last. Do put anti seize on the two screws that go into the fork leg casting. Now see if you have binding.
 
Not the best photo but the only one I could find quickly.

Are you sure you have the pad clips installed like these in the photos? Pay attention to the orientation of the slot cut into them being on the side away from the hydraulic line and not the other way around.

I'd swear you have something there misaligned or improperly installed by the sounds. If everything is ok, then I would support your master cylinder not returning fluid hypothesis.

S l1600
 
It doesn't sound like pads rubbing, more like metal. Take all 4 pads out and spin the wheel and see if its quiet. Do not operate the brake lever or you will pop the pistons out.
 
Thanks for all the photos and suggestions and apologies for my delays. I only have the weekends to work on it so it takes a while to try something and respond. At this point, though, I'm out of time and patience so I guess I'll be taking it to the shop. Today I also found fluid leaking from the MC in addition to the other issues.
Before finding the leak, though, I had made some videos.



 
Moving the grommet is simple. Anyone installed a bar riser kit and had to replace the right or left side brake line with a longer one? Anyone know of a source for modified length brake lines? Right now with the wheel off the ground the brake line is stressed, i.e., carrying part of the weight of the wheel. Is it common for the left side caliper to wear one brake pad twice as fast as the other?
 
Ive just installed a set of Heli bars, on my Breva 1100, they're about 25mm higher, closer and narrower. really good and yes i had to get a set of front brake lines, the clutch was ok. I measured what i needed and a local bike shop got me "Allegri" brake lines. (Italian) They are a crimped line with a 11mm connector on the ends. You purchase the length you require and they bolt onto a banjo union (purchased) on the caliper and master cylinder. I purchased 3 lines, special "o" rings and a "T" piece so it looks exactly the same as the original, the longer line is from the "T" piece to the brake master cylinder. Don't buy a kit where you cut the original and use a compression joint to hold it. In NZ that will fail at a testing station, and anyway who would want a dodgy join on the front brake. If I change the bars back I have the original front brake hose. Let me know if you want photos
 
Mmm thats interesting John, from the master cylinder to the "T" it was about 30mm short, if I pulled the slack from the lines going to the calipers there would be no give on full extension of the forks.
 
Kevin.NZ said:
Mmm thats interesting John, from the master cylinder to the "T" it was about 30mm short, if I pulled the slack from the lines going to the calipers there would be no give on full extension of the forks.
Click to expand...

When I put heli bars on I check the routing of the line. The heli bar doesn't easily go on with the M/C on, but if you line it up then pop it over the slack returns to the brake line. As with the anesthesia hammer, it is all in the wrist:call:
 
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Hello, Kevin. Solved the "error" problem by using "Link" instead of "Media" button. Slowly coming into the digital age by employing the "poke and hope" method of problem solving.
 
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