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Breva V1100 fork oil change

GrahamNZ said:
3ackok

Lovely yellow paint job there!

The reason why I and many others opted for 15W oil is to increase the damping response. The Guzzi spec of 5W to 20W is a huge range. The reason for adding more oil is to increase the air-springing effect as the forks near full compression, not to affect the damping. Adding an excessive amount of oil could ask a lot of the oilseals, but reports of up to 500cc being used make that volume sound OK. Just the same I'll stay with 450cc.

Reading this thread reminds me that since my Breva is just over four years old it's time to change the fork oil again. One wet day in the near future looks like the go for that so I'll buy some oil. This time I'll try to measure the oil level after adding 450cc of oil to one leg and match that for the second leg because that method is preferable to measuring just the volume when refilling after an oil change.

As an experiment I tried 500ml of SAE10 fork oil. It didn't work as the front end was wayyyy too harsh - so I took the front end apart and went back to 450ml. Haven't had chance to ride it yet, but I've got my eye on one of the Matris FM100KE kits if I'm not happy...... :D

I've got a feeling I won't be.... ;)
 
For the recommended 5 or 20 fork oil I do think it's an accidental recommendation or a translation error. I've been reading several Guzzi oil rec's and found in one Italian saying 5W/20, which is completely different.
Tho' I don't know if fork oils comes in multigrade...
 
pulled the forks today to change oil and install a Matris Fork kit... when I first turned the fork over what came out was clear liquid not tell I pumped the fork leg did I get black liquid to flow out... didn't know fork oil turn to water...WTH??? Also there was a noticeable difference in the volume that drain from each leg...didn't measure it though...

Dan
 
I had loads of problems trying to remove one of the fork bungs. Tried allsorts and managed to do some damage to the hardchrome, in the triple tree area.
I thought of cooling the aluminium bung to shrink it a bit but the stanchion was too long to go into the freezer.
In desperation, I tried heating the bung with a heat gun until very warm.
After cooling somewhat, the bung undid with not a lot of effort.
In answer to someone's query about the spanner required for the bung removal, I have measured it and it us 28mm.
I would recommend using a socket or ring spanner which is hexagonal, not 12 point as this will put less pressure on the corners of the hexagon of the bung.
Something that I don't think has been mentioned is that before you attempt to take the bung off completely, you should completely wind off the preload adjustment as this will reduce the spring tension and thus reduce the possibility of damage to the last threads of the bung.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Brian (QLD) :)
 
Hello, can somebody confirm the length of the spring spacer?
I see two measurements on this thread: 204 and 209,55 mm. Which one is correct?
 
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