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BUB Sump Removal

Discussion in 'Loop & Tonti' started by Anderson, Feb 22, 2021 at 3:29 PM.

  1. Anderson

    Anderson Just got it firing!

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    Hello, all,

    Long time reader, first time poster. Also first time BUB sump owner.

    I got a LM III that I am going through prior to starting for the first time. I wanted to inspect inside the pan but am at a loss as to how to proceed.

    Here is my situation:

    It's a BUB sump.
    I've removed all 12 of the perimeter bolts and separated the BUB from the block
    The pan now dangles 1/2" under the block but that's as far as it drops; it's hung up on something.
    I searched "BUB sump" and found this thread, which shows a photo of the pan. --> "Quick question for the Illuminati"

    That's all of the OEM tech info on these pans I've been able to find.
    I suspect the inner manifolds are stuck to their gaskets, but I don't want to force it.


    Any direction from the more experienced?

    Andy in PA

    Edit: original post called out 10 bolts.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2021 at 1:51 PM
  2. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    I had a bub sump on a CA II, The lines failed and I lost oil pressure so my recommendation is to ditch the bub sump and go back to stock. There are two blocks that connect to the oil gallies of the block. They are held on by either Allen screws (5mm head) or 10mm head bolts two in each block. If you must, cut the lines to gain access and put that pan in the trash. Check with dealers to see if they have a used pan that works. Harper's Moto Guzzi is my go to shop for these kind of things. If not bite the bullet for a new pan. I don't remember if the pressure relief valve is transferred from the stock pan to the bub, but if it is salvage it.
     
  3. Amboman

    Amboman Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    I have a good, used, original sump for sale.
     
  4. Anderson

    Anderson Just got it firing!

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    Thanks, John. I just had a look at it in better light. The hardware you mention is apparent.

    Order of disassembly appears to be this:
    1) remove 12 perimeter bolts and separate pan from block.
    2) nose of pan will drop enough to expose two allen bolts on underside of BUB forward junction block. Removing those will separate that BUB junction block from the engine. This will allow the front of the pan to drop away from the bike.
    3) This should expose the rear BUB junction block for similar disassembly.

    The pan can then be removed (and binned).

    If any of that changes, I'll edit my post for accuracy.

    Charlie, I'll be in touch. Thanks.

    Andy


    Edit: original post called out 10 bolts.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2021 at 1:52 PM
  5. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Andy, that procedure will work. Since Charlie has a pan get it.
     
  6. Amboman

    Amboman Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    14 perimeter bolts.
     
  7. Anderson

    Anderson Just got it firing!

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    1) I got it apart as per the instructions above.

    2) Re 14 bolts: Normally, sure, but this has 12, oddly enough.
    (Above, I wrote 10 originally -- now edited to 12.)

    The threads for the central front and rear do not get utilized by the BUB design.
    See pic.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 24, 2021 at 2:05 PM
  8. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Be prepared to order a complete set of pan screws for the stock sump. Some of your perimeter screws may be correct, but the ones for the center 4 won't be.
     
  9. Anderson

    Anderson Just got it firing!

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    Here a re two pics of the BUB sump, dropped from the block, but still assembled.
    Seeing these pics may help someone some day.

    -Andy
    BUB pan.jpg BUB pan 2.jpg
     
  10. Anderson

    Anderson Just got it firing!

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    Charlie, PM Sent.
     

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