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Burnt electrical smell and no power V1000 G5

Frey

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 8, 2015
Messages
44
Location
Happy Valley
Just back on the road with the G5 after a near complete restoration. Took a few years, a good chunk of change, and finally the help of a skilled Guzzi mechanic. Other than a few miles of testing by the latter, I had not ridden it (ever) until I finally had a chance yesterday. Enjoyed my virgin ride doddering around the back roads of central Pennsylvania for about 50 miles, mostly around 60mph, give or take. Bike worked very well. Figured I'd give it another go today before the rain begins.

Probably should have let it warm up a bit more, but was anxious to beat the rain. I headed out of the driveway, made it half a block up a short hill, missed second gear (I can see why some folks call these old Guzzis "agricultural" -- shifting is not so much a snick as a whole leg lift), and continued to goof around trying to find a gear, stalled, and stopped.

Now, no start, no instrument panel lights, no headlight, nada. Coasted into the driveway. Smells like burnt electrical. Check fuses -- all fine. Checked AGM battery state of charge -- 71%.

Have I fried my rectifier? Having ridden 50 miles yesterday, I would have assumed the battery to be fairly well topped off. Perhaps frying something took a significant amount of juice? What would you check first, and (maybe a question for later) what would you think to do to prevent it from happening in the future? FYI, all new wiring, pretty much exactly to spec, by experienced Tonti mechanic. Rectifier was original.

Any and all thoughts on this matter will be greatly appreciated.

The only silver lining is that this will keep me off the road for a while (which is good because PA DMV somehow screwed something up and can't issue a plate:lipssealed:, and given the situation, could be several months before that is sorted).
 
Charge battery, before stating shut off lights, put in neutral because some G5's were wired to the neutral sender. Start bike and measure across battery terminals for voltage then give it some gas and see if voltage increases. If not look at diode board under R/H sidecover, it's above your brake. IF defective, the backside toward the battery will be burnt in some spot. Newer wiring will often get warm especially the large power wire to starter. The more you try starting the bike the warmer that big wire becomes. Could be what you smell.
 
Charged battery -- reading 12.62v across the terminals. There is no starting this bike. I've got nothing except brake light -- no dummy lights, no turn signals, no headlight (for what it's worth, all indicator and dummy lights have been converted to bright LEDs), no parking lights, no neutral indicator, no horn, no start button.

I can't see any loose wires.
I can't see any damaged insulation on wires.
I can't see any obvious burn on the back of the regulator.
I don't smell anything anymore.

With key in and turned to "on" position, I have 12.5+ volts reading at each fuse (all fuses are good).
I have all new K&S switchgear.
I have a new clutch interlock.
 
Start checking connectors on the main harness, should be 2 like about 12(+or-) pins by back of headlight. Check connectors from both L & R switches. Check the same for ignition switch. Sounds like an unplugged main loom connector except for power at fuses.
You may want to call the guy who did wiring.
 
With the ignition switch in the on position , try jumping across the small blade on the starter solenoid lead to the
battery lead on the top of the solenoid , does the engine crank over and start ? Peter
 
SOLVED!

Thanks, V700Steve. After I stalled heading up the hill, in making my way to the side of the street, I must have turned full lock and pulled the connector apart. It, being in a new sheath is quite stiff. Is there a good (non permanent) way to get that connector to stay connected. I may have to snip a few cable ties and pull an extra inch of the loom forward to allow a little more play.

Apparently I made up the burnt electrical smell. Doh!

Cheers,

Frey
 
SOLVED!

Thanks, V700Steve. After I stalled heading up the hill, in making my way to the side of the street, I must have turned full lock and pulled the connector apart. It, being in a new sheath is quite stiff. Is there a good (non permanent) way to get that connector to stay connected. I may have to snip a few cable ties and pull an extra inch of the loom forward to allow a little more play.

Apparently I made up the burnt electrical smell. Doh!

Cheers,

Frey
 
First I am hearing of this. I am the one who installed all of this wiring. The sheathing is very stiff. I pulled it forward as far as it would go and zip-tied it so the Molex wouldn't unplug, but obviously it still does. There is no more "slack" in the harness to pull it forward without stressing the wires or unplugging something else. Unlike the original Molex plugs, the replacements do not have locking lugs meant to keep them together. The fix from Greg Bender (supplier of the harnesses) is a long screw with nut that goes through an unused hole in the Molex shell and keeps them from coming apart.
 
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