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Buying a 14' Cali 1400 What to look for?

Discussion in 'Cal 1400 8V' started by Ken Wantje, Jul 26, 2021.

  1. Ken Wantje

    Ken Wantje Just got it firing!

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    I am looking at a 2014 California Touring 1400 with 8900 miles. I have read through some posts here about the H pipe exhaust issues, possible final drive leaks and some drivability issues at low RPM's. I have requested the vehicle history from the dealer to see if any of these or other issues have been handled under the original warranty from the previous owner. Are there any other things I should look out for? I am buying this sight unseen other than detailed photos and description from the dealer. I have 24 hours to return it, 7 day wheel to wheel warranty and 30 days powertrain. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    I am a 40 year cycle veteran, owning, riding and repairing dozens of bikes over the years.
    Thank you
     
  2. Sasazuka

    Sasazuka Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    How about checking the oil overflow tube that comes out of the airbox? Seems like a common issue with over filling with oil that can result in fouling up your air filter/box.
     
  3. groundhog105

    groundhog105 Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    I had a 2014 custom that I put 45000 miles on. They are solid bikes but would benefit from Todd’s fueling and exhaust which mine had. I was confident enough in the bike I sold it to my niece and her husband a couple years ago. They love it and are still riding it.
     
  4. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Lack of grease in critical places was also a common issue with early 1400s, e.g. drive shaft splines, headstock and swing arm (if all the reports are to go by)
     
  5. Chet Van Aken

    Chet Van Aken Tuned and Synch'ed

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    The comments above are good, overfilling the oil is common since the oil cooler is not drained 3.5 L is all you need not 4 L. Rear tire removal can be a problem due to lack of lube and if the center housing slips out while you are doing it you can scratch the wheel. Service and valve adjustment is pretty easy except for the 30K mile alternator belt change. I never noticed issues with fueling or drivability, but I am sure the fueling changes would be great. Never had the H pipe crack either. I think it is a great bike, wouldn't hesitate to buy one again.
     
  6. Ken Wantje

    Ken Wantje Just got it firing!

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    Thank you all for your replies since this bike has less than 9,000 miles on it I would expect it to be in pretty good shape mechanically. what is the recommended interval for valve adjustment? I've also heard that the rear differential or final drive only holds 250 ml of oil so that might want to get changed right out of the gate. Is there any other service I should ask the dealer to perform prior to delivery?
     
  7. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    6000 miles are valve adjustment intervals (IIRC), but it's easy to do, especially if you have an ATV style jack to lift the rear wheel off the ground (to rotate the engine) and the rubber gaskets for the head covers are resuable at least 3 times (from my experience).

    I would not worry about replacing the final drive oil straight away as the service intervals are huge (30k miles) and its a bit of pain to get to (rear wheel needs to come off). Most do it when they replace the rear tire (every 2 years in my case).
     
  8. Vintagehoarder

    Vintagehoarder Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Plenty of smiles to the gallon!
     
  9. Calvin Rudd

    Calvin Rudd Just got it firing!

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    Hi guys, looked under my bike today and saw this.


    [​IMG]

    I see three tubes under the bike. two black rubber ones bound and exiting from same location and clear one with what looks like engine oil. I suspect previous owner has overfilled bike with oil and its really messing with my ecu.

    Advice is appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. FrankZ

    FrankZ Tuned and Synch'ed GT di Razza Pura

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    That's the tube from the airbox that everybody talks about. Put a pan under it, pull out the stopper, drain, reinsert stopper. Repeat the next time it catches your attention. I'm sure I'm in the minority here, but I'm not fully sold on the overfilled crankcase theory. I didn't check my air filter this year (pain in the butt, hopefully there's no mice living in there), but, every other time I checked, I never found any amount of oil in the airbox, no soaked air filter. I just recently topped off my oil level, was almost down to the add mark, and that hose still had a bit of oil in it.
     
  11. GTM®

    GTM® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Heh, sure, don't believe the theory that painstakingly came to be after decades of daily hands-on experience from shops around the world, and those for decades before us. Oiling the mass air flow sensor on these bikes is definite disaster and makes the bike barely run.
     
    TravelinPawPaw likes this.
  12. FrankZ

    FrankZ Tuned and Synch'ed GT di Razza Pura

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    I'm not questioning your knowledge, just think that, in my case, I fill it to the full mark, tube fills with some oil. Engine's low on oil, tube fills up with oil. Never a lot, mind you, but always some. I'm sure some people do overfill them, just absolutely sure I haven't done that. Mine's running great, only experienced the mysterious hanging throttle issue for a short period last Summer. I hope your recovery is going well!
     
  13. GTM®

    GTM® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Yes, which means there's oil in the air box, that feeds into the throttle body. Stop it before it stops you and costs you significant $. We've corrected a handful in the workshop already, post service by dealers mostly.
     
    John L likes this.
  14. Calvin Rudd

    Calvin Rudd Just got it firing!

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    Thanks Frank & Todd for both perspectives. By the looks of it I have some work to do regarding removing airbox cover, taking a look at filter soaked in oil or not and cleaning this airflow sensor if there is oil on it.

    Is there a picture based thread tutorial on airbox removal & sensor location on this forum i've missed? Appreciate any advice.

    I've also posted a problem with my Audace that is spontaneously revving up to 5k stopped at the lights stationary with the clutch in.
    I have found i can arrest this issue buy letting out the clutch slightly and this problem seems to occur more often when bike is cold. ie 1st 10 mins of riding.

    Many thanks to all in the Guzzi community. Makes me love owning this bike!
     
  15. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Pretty easy to remove airbox. Start with battery, remove two clips on top and two more on side of airbox, pull back from top and up and the air filter etc comes out. The tricky bit is putting the side clips back on afterwards. It's documented in several places here and is a real B****.

    The sensor is under the tank on the engine air intake just behind the filter and throttle plate. It's held in place by one small bolt and sealed with a rubber o-ring, just wriggle it lightly as you pull it up. I clean it peridically with a spray of something designed for clearning mass air sensors which you can probably pick up in any automotive store (cost me about $10)
     
  16. Calvin Rudd

    Calvin Rudd Just got it firing!

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    Hi Paul,

    Great Info! Have u ever replaced the air filter? I picked up the bike at 17,000km so if im going to go ahead with the job I may as well change the air filter, clean the sensor and do the moaning whale mod all in one go.

    Is there a recommend place on the web to order stock air filter replacement?
     
  17. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    I replaced the air filter with a high flow item from the store as part of a power commander V/AT300 fueling upgrade. Fitting that with standard fueing would probably make it run even leaner ,and they run lean right out of the box (i.e. not too well) so might not be a good idea. I'd check with Todd to see what he stocks and recommends but they can be bought from other guzzi specialists if he doesn't carry them.
     
  18. FrankZ

    FrankZ Tuned and Synch'ed GT di Razza Pura

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    I saw your post about this on the Hanging Throttle post, and noticed you neglected to mention the part about the clutch affecting your problem in that post. The best way to solve this is by going back to when the issue started. Did it appear out of nowhere, or after performing one or all of your mods. I assume that the bike did run properly at a previous time while you owned it. If you bought the bike with the mods already done, was the fueling adjusted to compensate for the mods?
    From what you posted, I would check that clutch lever switch with an ohm meter. It's a double throw switch, make sure you check both circuits. If it's the cause of your problem, I would think you should see a change in the ohm reading on one side or the other while moving the clutch lever through the point where you noticed it affecting the RPMs.
     

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