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Cali III fuel capacity? Cant get a straight answer!

GuzziHero

GuzziHero

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
485
Location
Stoke-on-Bloody-Trent
Yes, its another one of GuzziHero's Stupid Questions!

Some sites/books say the Cali III (teardrop tank) has an 18l capacity including a 13.5l main tank and 4.5l reserve,,,others say the reserve is exclusive for a total 22.5l capacity.

I've held a 15l bucket alongside it to try and gauge it and 22.5l seems impossible!

Only reason I'm asking is that I want to drain a (full!) tank to sort the low fuel warning and don't know if I have enough sealed containers. I guess the other option is to ride it for a hundred miles or so to get the level down :p
 
The second option is the easiest. Remember you don't have to drain it completely, only enough to leave the level switch high and dry when you stand the tank on end.
 
I had a CA III. They will hold 6 US gallons, or about the 22.5 liter capacity. However, Brian is correct in a good technique to remove the low fuel sending unit. You can't remove it with the tank mounted to the bike as it is long and there isn't clearance.
 
Cheers :)

I'll probably give it a total job, get any rust out while I'm there, and clean my fuel filters.

Thanks for the replies :)
 
Okeydokely.

*I* think the problem is the yellow live wire between the dashboard and the sensor (it broke as I touched it...) my mate thinks the fuel sensor is broken. So, a query...

This is the sensor I have, the long type:
30103060.jpg

{thank you, MG Cycle for the pic!}

The thin brass rod...is that supposed to move up and down? We think it should...but it isnt. It is very very non-moving.

If it is supposed to move, is there any known way to free it off?

Cheers :)
 
It doesn't move as I remember. A magnet "floats" in the sensor, and at a certain level the magnet causes the reeds to make contact.
 
If you find no wires broken, then it's possible to replace the reed relay inside the tube. Spares are available from Maplin in the UK. You will need a heavy duty soldering iron too, to open the end of the tube, and then reseal it.
You can also make an adjustment to the point at which the light comes on if you want. Just raise or drop the reed relay in the tube before sealing it in.
 
The yellow +ve feed to the sensor has broken at the plug. I'm planning to rewire the sensor on both sides.

Ironically, on my fuel-burn riding session today I...ran out of fuel! Luckily I was uphill of a petrol station!
 
No, I only put 5l in so I could get home, and know I had a can to empty the rest into :)

Right, took it out today. The wiring on the bike was good, replaced a dodgy bulb holder and fitted bullet connectors.

On the sensor itself, the wiring had corroded inside the +ve so we shortened both wires and bulleted those.

Problem is, now even with a full tank the light stays on. There was a resistor on the +ve side, which we had to cut off, and I'm thinking thats the issue, unless the sensor magnet has gone. If the resistor is the issue, do you know what its value is?
 
Why not just buy a replacement sensor? You seem to be going through many gyrations that wouldn't be necessary if you just broke down and replaced it.
 
Yeah, thats pretty much my plan now. I do like to sort stuff for myself not out of cheapness, but because I love to solve problems :) Buying parts is usually my last resort.

Still, I know I have done pretty much what I can short of replacing it...and the wiring/bulb holder did need sorting.
 
If the magnet had gone AWOL the light would never come on.
I think the most likely situation is that the positive wire is shorting to earth somewhere in the tube.
 
Gah!

Ah well, I've found a 2nd hand one for £22, so that looks like a plan. At least Ive sorted my wiring out.

Thanks for all the help once again :)
 
Long story short, I replaced the sensor and it now works.

Thing is though, the old sensor was mounted too low. You know the left-to-right thread adaptor? Well for some reason the bottom of the old sensor was touching the rocker cover. I am presuming that over time the heat damaged the wax at the sensor base.

Oddly, when I removed the adaptor from the old sensor to put on the new, there was what appeared to be a plastic washer on the sensor thread which didnt appear removable, and isnt on the new sensor.

Ah well, it works and thats all that matters :D

---
Oh, to answer the original Q... at least on my model there is about a 19l total capacity, with 3.5l of it reserve.
 
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