• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

California oil drip

B

bikesnbones

Just got it firing!
Joined
Oct 16, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Uk
Hi all.
Got an issue with my recently acquired EV1100 2003.
Under the swing arm on the right side just after where it comes out of its rubber gaitor there is a tiny hole out of which I've got a bit of oil coming through.
I can see a grub screw inside the hole which I assume is to retain a bearing.
Not much oil coming through.
Just a drop every so often but of course I can't see what's getting past that hole down to the final drive.
It's definitely transmission oil so I fashioned a dip stick out of a cable tie where I marked where the oil level sits after I changed it and I've been monitoring over the 4 months.
There is no discernable drop in level so I'm somewhat perplexed by this.
Is this a common issue?
Many thanks.
 
There should not be a hole or grub screw in the swing arm. Just looked at the parts manual to confirm. Never the less, it shouldn't be leaking either. It is probably just the gearbox output seal. To replace it requires removing the swing arm. If you do the job yourself, pay attention to the little steel ball that resides on the output shaft to drive the speedometer gear.
 
john zibell said:
There should not be a hole or grub screw in the swing arm. Just looked at the parts manual to confirm. Never the less, it shouldn't be leaking either. It is probably just the gearbox output seal. To replace it requires removing the swing arm. If you do the job yourself, pay attention to the little steel ball that resides on the output shaft to drive the speedometer gear.
Click to expand...

Thanks
A friend of mine has the same model california which also has the hole in the same place.
 
That would likely be a gearbox/transmission output shaft oil seal (GU90403547) leak. Swing-arm off replacement as John states above.
 
bikesnbones said:
Well it's definitely not a figment of my imagination



The hole is threaded and there is a grub screw inside.
As I said a friend's EV has exactly the same hole
Click to expand...


I had an early production EV with external fuel pump. That may be a later modification but it does show up in the parts manual after you showed me a picture of where it is. Still as I and Todd said, it requires gearbox output seal replacement.
 
Moto-Uno said:
Isn't that pretty close to where the carden joint support bearing is ? Peter
Click to expand...

Yes.
It's my understanding that the grub screw you can just about see which is an allen head, helps stop that bearing from moving.
 
GTM® said:
That would likely be a gearbox/transmission output shaft oil seal (GU90403547) leak. Swing-arm off replacement as John states above.
Click to expand...

Is there a tutorial for the job here.
I'm a reasonably capable home mechanic and have removed chain drive swing arms many times but this will be my first time with a shaft drive.
It looks quite straightforward but I'd like to be aware of any potential pitfalls.
Many thanks
 

Attachments

  • clutch-big-twin-en-2004-07-04.pdf
    241.4 KB · Views: 11
GTM® said:
Our friend Rolf outlines most of the job (and much deeper) on the attached PDF.
Click to expand...

That looks much more involved than I was expecting.
Can't the output shaft seal be accessed by simply removing the swing arm?
Interesting tip about replacing the UJ carrier bearing.
I wouldn't have thought to do that at the 20,000 miles my bike has but it makes sense while it's apart.
 
bikesnbones said:
Can't the output shaft seal be accessed by simply removing the swing arm?
Click to expand...
Yes, what I stated above is that the job speaks of swing arm removal, which is all you need to do. All I can be of help with personally here.
 
bikesnbones said:
That looks much more involved than I was expecting.
Can't the output shaft seal be accessed by simply removing the swing arm?
Interesting tip about replacing the UJ carrier bearing.
I wouldn't have thought to do that at the 20,000 miles my bike has but it makes sense while it's apart.
Click to expand...

You shouldn't need to replace the carrier bearing. It helps to have the Guzzi special tools to remove the speedometer drive on the output shaft or a modified 27mm deep socket (remove the ridge so you can fully engage the nut of the speedometer drive) and an impact wrench. Be advised not to lose the little steel ball that drives the speedometer gear. Also on install that ball goes into the long groove of the spline shalt to nest in a recess of the speedometer drive. I find it helpful to remove the rear drive so you are handling less weight with just the swing arm. Also a vernier caliper to re-center the swing arm by having the swing arm pins exposed the same amount. I like to get them within 0.5mm of each other. Service/workshop manuals are available in the downloads see this thread of you don't already have access https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/user-account-upgrade-donations.14025/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top