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camshaft timing marks & chain tensioner question

KnowFear

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
103
I just replaced the OEM camchain adjuster with the aftermarket unit as source from MG Cycle.

I noticed that the camshaft sprocket was 1 chain roller out of alignment according to the marks on the cam gear and crank gear. Easily fixed, but I'm wondering how this must have affected the engine running with a mis-timed camshaft??

Also, I could not find the torque settings for the 8mm bolts that hold the front main bearing carrier (I had to remove two of them to install the tensioner). I used 25 ft-lbs -- does that seem correct?
 
Can I leave them as is (over tight), or should I go back and redo?
 
1 tooth forward or reverse (clockwise or counter-clockwise)?
How did the bike run before ya changed the chain?
Was the OEM tensioner destroyed?
Could be the chain was really stretched eh?
Sounds like you're doin the job in the nick of time.
Alex
 
I rotated the camshaft sprocket 1 chain link countercloclwise (looking from front of motor) to line up the timing marks.

The motor has @ 19,000 miles. It ran before I stripped it, but I never rode it. It needed a lot of TLC. The camchain does not appear to be worn out. The rubber block on the OEM tensioner appears to have little wear on it. It wasn't anywhere near the chain when I opened it up.
 
wow. Something of a mystery.

I would imagine being off a whole tooth on the cam gear would noticably impact performance.

Alex
 
Tonerjockey said:
wow. Something of a mystery.

I would imagine being off a whole tooth on the cam gear would noticably impact performance.

Alex

Yes, me too. I assume that cam lobe duration is @ 90 degrees. So, even though it is sub-optimal, I also assume it should run if the camshaft is mis-timed by 9.5 degrees. The bike did start and run before I tore it down, but I have no idea how well it ran. The previous owner didn't ride it (or maintain it) much, so I have no baseline. As long as the gears are marked correctly, then this beast should finally run as intended!
 
Only way to confirm timing is with degree wheel on crankshaft and dial guage on rocker.
I did this on my last MK 3 (bought it with 200k+ klm) when I did rebuild with new cam chain.
All timing was within 1 degree and a few thou of spec.

I have seen a relatively new BMW 1200 GS backfire due to EFI/tuning, and cause the cam timing to jump 1 tooth on the right cylinder (twin cam). It ran rough after start up so the owner stupidly reved it hard to make it go better.
BANG!

I've also seen timing marks on Guzzi flywheels a long way out as well, with a few degrees difference between S & D.
Get these right and it will run sweet as.
 
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