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Changing gear box oil, but where?

A*D*A*M

Just got it firing!
Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
20
Location
Sweden
IMG 6528 I know this is a rather dumb question but as I can't find any useful information on the web, in the user or workshop manual I turn to you just to see if there's a solution I have overlooked.
Do you really fill up using the inspection hole on the side of the gearbox ?
On my old T3 that is the case but then the hole sits half way up to the top making the pouring easy.
 
It's easy with the plastic litre bottle that have a short plastic pipe which pulls out of the cap or fill it by removing the breather if it's the same as the six speed. Steve.
 
I agree, I've never liked the idea of filling it until it dribbles out of the filler hole. Too many variables, as well as messy. Just measure in the amount you should add. With the newer bottles sporting see-through graduated panels, it's easy. Even with bottles that don't have these, use a measuring cup and a funnel. In either case, it's easier and neater to add the oil through the breather hole than through the filler. The only caveats are 1) use a new crush washer every time; 2) be very careful not to over-tighten the breather when reinstalling it, 12 Nm, no more.

As an aside, with the newer 6-sp gearboxes on the VII series, you HAVE to measure in the oil, there's no other way to know if it's properly filled.
 
I agree, I've never liked the idea of filling it until it dribbles out of the filler hole. Too many variables, as well as messy. Just measure in the amount you should add. With the newer bottles sporting see-through graduated panels, it's easy. Even with bottles that don't have these, use a measuring cup and a funnel. In either case, it's easier and neater to add the oil through the breather hole than through the filler. The only caveats are 1) use a new crush washer every time; 2) be very careful not to over-tighten the breather when reinstalling it, 12 Nm, no more.

As an aside, with the newer 6-sp gearboxes on the VII series, you HAVE to measure in the oil, there's no other way to know if it's properly filled.


I agree it is best to measure and fill. It is pretty easy to put the oil in with a flexible funnel with the bike on the side stand. if measured, there is no need to fill till it runs out. Also in rear drives I've experienced not putting enough oil in using the fill to fill plug method. Sometimes it will seem to come out when not full, expensive lesson on a T rear drive.
 
I agree it is best to measure and fill. It is pretty easy to put the oil in with a flexible funnel with the bike on the side stand. if measured, there is no need to fill till it runs out. Also in rear drives I've experienced not putting enough oil in using the fill to fill plug method. Sometimes it will seem to come out when not full, expensive lesson on a T rear drive.

Whatever I advised about the gearbox also applies to the rear drive. For adding the viscous rear drive oil, I use a 100-ml graduated plastic syringe with plastic tubing, available for a few bucks on Amazon.
 
To add to the two posts above, I've made a habit of lowering the spec'ed amount by 50-100cc to avoid over-pressurization, much like the engine oil level.
 
I use a measured amount on a Guzzi though I prefer the fill till it runs out of the hole on most other bikes if that is the recommended way. On those I normally overfill then let it settle to the correct level but I have the advantage of a lift I put the bike on to hold it level and the time of it being in my heated garage. I will spin the rear wheel to let the oil get around inside or yes, it will seem full before it is. I have found the local beauty supply store (Sally's around here) has nice bottles with a spout used for hair coloring and other stuff that works great for putting oil in the sideways filler holes. I never thought of removing the vent.
 
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