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Charging System mysteries

zen_arcade

Just got it firing!
Joined
Sep 13, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Atlanta
howdy all. I have a 1985 v65 lario. Just installed new charging system (old one worked, just wanted to upgrade). after install charging light is fully on while running, dims a little over 3000 rpm. I bought the EME kit, which includes stator, rotor, rectifier/diode board and voltage regulator. any thoughts? thx
 
howdy all. I have a 1985 v65 lario. Just installed new charging system (old one worked, just wanted to upgrade). after install charging light is fully on while running, dims a little over 3000 rpm. I bought the EME kit, which includes stator, rotor, rectifier/diode board and voltage regulator. any thoughts? thx
thanks!
 
From my looking, that kit is actually designed for early BMW airheads, and specifically the diode board, which is not used in Moto Guzzi's.

I would call them and ask for technical support. Hopefully that will get you some help. Otherwise, it's impossible to know what you have done and how. Too many variables to account for.

Good Luck!


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Euro MotoElectrics
2505 W 2nd Ave Unit 15
Denver, CO 80219
303.526.0901
email us: info@euromotoelectrics.com
 
From my looking, that kit is actually designed for early BMW airheads, and specifically the diode board, which is not used in Moto Guzzi's.

I would call them and ask for technical support. Hopefully that will get you some help. Otherwise, it's impossible to know what you have done and how. Too many variables to account for.

Good Luck!


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Euro MotoElectrics
2505 W 2nd Ave Unit 15
Denver, CO 80219
303.526.0901
email us: info@euromotoelectrics.com
can i ring you after 1230 pm est today? or you may ring me then @404 8245506. thanks!
 
From my looking, that kit is actually designed for early BMW airheads, and specifically the diode board, which is not used in Moto Guzzi's.

I would call them and ask for technical support. Hopefully that will get you some help. Otherwise, it's impossible to know what you have done and how. Too many variables to account for.

Good Luck!


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Return to Help Index
Additional Support
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Euro MotoElectrics
2505 W 2nd Ave Unit 15
Denver, CO 80219
303.526.0901
email us: info@euromotoelectrics.com
Scott, BMW and Guzzi used the same system until the Saprisa on the Guzzi. The exact same diode board. If a BMW one went bad (they oftern did from vibration and heat) the Guzzi one is the same electronically and Guzzi charged less for one back in the 70s and 80s.
 
Scott, BMW and Guzzi used the same system until the Saprisa on the Guzzi. The exact same diode board. If a BMW one went bad (they oftern did from vibration and heat) the Guzzi one is the same electronically and Guzzi charged less for one back in the 70s and 80s.

Well as you know, I have very limited experience with this ancient Moto Guzzi stuff. I was going on the notations on their website which said “N/A” under Moto Guzzi.

My bad.

Nevertheless, his issue needs to be taken up by EME which I gave him the info to.

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can i ring you after 1230 pm est today? or you may ring me then @404 8245506. thanks!

Please don’t call me.

You need to call Euromotoelectrics. That’s their information I shared with you.

I cannot help you with their products and I don’t want to become the guy people here start calling with questions. I don’t want that to start as I cannot nor will I engage in doing that. I would be abused to death and my time would be wasted and I cannot afford to do that. Sorry.
 
Hi, mate, I use this generator on my airhead for years and I had the very same problem, charging from 3krpm up, what means, from 50mph - on! The seller of this set wasn't much helpful and I went along old guys' advice. The initial charging point can be brought down by using a bigger charging light bulb. We cannot, of course, use endlessly bigger and bigger bulb - BUT we can fit another one, paralelly. So imagine your red idiot light is rated 2W, then 3W or 5W will make a difference - but if that's still not enough, find a front parking light bulb holder thing at the local scrapyard, connect it +ve to +ve, -ve to -ve and you will notice a proper drop, down to the desired revs. No way to make any damage - easy solution. Just cover the bulb with black tape and hide it away in the wires!
 
Hi, mate, I use this generator on my airhead for years and I had the very same problem, charging from 3krpm up, what means, from 50mph - on! The seller of this set wasn't much helpful and I went along old guys' advice. The initial charging point can be brought down by using a bigger charging light bulb. We cannot, of course, use endlessly bigger and bigger bulb - BUT we can fit another one, paralelly. So imagine your red idiot light is rated 2W, then 3W or 5W will make a difference - but if that's still not enough, find a front parking light bulb holder thing at the local scrapyard, connect it +ve to +ve, -ve to -ve and you will notice a proper drop, down to the desired revs. No way to make any damage - easy solution. Just cover the bulb with black tape and hide it away in the wires!
thanks so much for the info! that is an easy solution, and inexpensive too!

ps yeah the seller was of no help at all....
 
Please don’t call me.

You need to call Euromotoelectrics. That’s their information I shared with you.

I cannot help you with their products and I don’t want to become the guy people here start calling with questions. I don’t want that to start as I cannot nor will I engage in doing that. I would be abused to death and my time would be wasted and I cannot afford to do that. Sorry.
my apologies!! i misunderstood your message. i appreciate the effort.
 
Just wondering if you have checked it w/a multi meter like the book says as to why the light is on? Maybe rotor went bad or?
I would think they would ask what the numbers are in checking.
 
Hi, mate, I use this generator on my airhead for years and I had the very same problem, charging from 3krpm up, what means, from 50mph - on! The seller of this set wasn't much helpful and I went along old guys' advice. The initial charging point can be brought down by using a bigger charging light bulb. We cannot, of course, use endlessly bigger and bigger bulb - BUT we can fit another one, paralelly. So imagine your red idiot light is rated 2W, then 3W or 5W will make a difference - but if that's still not enough, find a front parking light bulb holder thing at the local scrapyard, connect it +ve to +ve, -ve to -ve and you will notice a proper drop, down to the desired revs. No way to make any damage - easy solution. Just cover the bulb with black tape and hide it away in the wires!
Thanks for this advice. I'm going to give it a go! I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
Just wondering if you have checked it w/a multi meter like the book says as to why the light is on? Maybe rotor went bad or?
I would think they would ask what the numbers are in checking.
hi,
first, here what I done to electrics in the past weeks: replace dash harness+bulbs, replace rear section "charging harness" (covers regulator, diode board/rectifier, connectors to battery and dash light connector on main harness), diode board/rectifier, regulator, rotor, stator, stator housing. BTW, charging light was fine prior to all of this.

here is what I'm getting on mutli-meter:
12.8v - switch off (full charge just off tender).
12.7v - switch on, not running. charge light 100% brightness
12.7v - Idle @1200 rpm. charge light 100% brightness
14.1v - @3000 rpm. charge light ~30% brightness

I am going to try the suggestion of @Adamigo to add a bulb in parallel to charge light bulb.

thanks to all for you comments!
ps: thanks to Greg Bender of thisoldtractor for harnesses and tips.
 
I meant AC voltage off stator or Ohm's on slip rings for brushes on the rotor. Isolated for rotor. Then there is readings for diode board about all 3 phases. Also possible it's the wiring in harness for light it's self in dash. How do you know what to fix? You must test all the components of system individually to find the issue.
The manufacturer will ask these questions so they know which part is bad.
 
Or , if you've got the time , try replacing the regulator with your known good one , check , then try your
known good rectifier , and each of the other components ,one at a time to see if you can find the
"smoking gun " . This all might be an academic exercise , as
14V at 3000rpm is pretty good :) . And of course you can just eliminate the charge light circuit .
Peter
 
I meant AC voltage off stator or Ohm's on slip rings for brushes on the rotor. Isolated for rotor. Then there is readings for diode board about all 3 phases. Also possible it's the wiring in harness for light it's self in dash. How do you know what to fix? You must test all the components of system individually to find the issue.
The manufacturer will ask these questions so they know which part is bad.
thank you for this. looks like i will have to dive deeper as you say.
 
Or , if you've got the time , try replacing the regulator with your known good one , check , then try your
known good rectifier , and each of the other components ,one at a time to see if you can find the
"smoking gun " . This all might be an academic exercise , as
14V at 3000rpm is pretty good :) . And of course you can just eliminate the charge light circuit .
Peter
happy to know that is good reading. ha yeah removing the charge light circuit may be the final result. it just bugs me...
 
I've sent Todd the manual that covers how to test the system. It covers the V35, V50, and V65. It should be available in the downloads in a day or so. To upgrade your account so you can access the download see this. https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/user-account-upgrade-donations.14025/
I appreciate this site, and your expert moderation. I'm relatively new to the guzzi addiction, and this forum has been invaluable. I just joined as a Famiglia member. thank you!
 
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