• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Clutch Lever Too Hard

Uss

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Sep 11, 2016
Messages
96
Location
Melbourne. Australia
Hi. I came back today after a two day ride on some windey roads with lots of gear changes. By the end of the ride my left hand fingers were hurting & took the joy out of the ride. I feel the clutch has become hard. Is there any specification regarding the force required to engage the clutch? How does one check how hard it has become from the original setting. And is there a way to decrease this resistance and make it lighter to operate?

Cheers
 
The Cal 14 which has a hydraulic clutch. All you can do is bleed the black worn out fluid. There is a bleed nipple on a hose extension under side cover I think, may be under seat.
You also might be able to swap master for a larger one which may make it a lighter pull.
 
Per what Steve says above, and stated here on this Forum dozens of times (per the paragraphs at the top of each page, please search and read before starting a new thread), bleed the clutch monthly or more if you ride more. The other thing we have seen frequently in my workshop, is that the low $ slave cylinder HERE fails often in the sense of the o-ring always looks smashed or poorly assembled. It's a big job to get to, so best to have one in hand if you tackle that huge task. If that all checks out, a better master cylinder has proven to help this problem, and a match on the front brakes even more so.
 
Per what Steve says above, and stated here on this Forum dozens of times (per the paragraphs at the top of each page, please search and read before starting a new thread), bleed the clutch monthly or more if you ride more. The other thing we have seen frequently in my workshop, is that the low $ slave cylinder HERE fails often in the sense of the o-ring always looks smashed or poorly assembled. It's a big job to get to, so best to have one in hand if you tackle that huge task. If that all checks out, a better master cylinder has proven to help this problem, and a match on the front brakes even more so.
I did do a search but there was nothing that came up for the Cali 1400s. Plus the mechanical mapping for the other Guzzis appeared quite different, hence the post. Thank you for the advice. I want to explore if there was something that could be done before we start anything elaborate. You mention a better master cylinder will help, I would love to explore that option before getting to the slave cylinder. Can you recommend any that works on the 1400s with better results than the standard one and makes the clutch easier to operate.

Cheers
 
The Cal 14 which has a hydraulic clutch. All you can do is bleed the black worn out fluid. There is a bleed nipple on a hose extension under side cover I think, may be under seat.
You also might be able to swap master for a larger one which may make it a lighter pull.
Thanks Steve. The oil is clean, there is a possibility of moisture absorption which I need to check.
 
Back
Top