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Clutch slipping...

ARVENO said:
ok, I got it,
i've got the hub off , yes the oil is coming from the trans seal..behind the clutch hub.

Before replacing seal and o ring and putting the new clutch hub back...is there any kind of silicone/sealant should i use to be sure it won't leak again ?

No, sealant is required nor recommended. Since the front seal is leaking, do you see any scoring/pitting on the hub gear? Check the input shaft for lateral play. If you can detect play, it becomes a new game and you may need an input bearing. In other words, see if something besides age caused the seal to fail. If only age related, or hub gear surface problem then you will take care of everything with what you have.
 
john zibell said:
ARVENO said:
ok, I got it,
i've got the hub off , yes the oil is coming from the trans seal..behind the clutch hub.

Before replacing seal and o ring and putting the new clutch hub back...is there any kind of silicone/sealant should i use to be sure it won't leak again ?

No, sealant is required nor recommended. Since the front seal is leaking, do you see any scoring/pitting on the hub gear? Check the input shaft for lateral play. If you can detect play, it becomes a new game and you may need an input bearing. In other words, see if something besides age caused the seal to fail. If only age related, or hub gear surface problem then you will take care of everything with what you have.

John,
I don't feel any play from the shaft,but i will re-check just to be sure, i see a little bit or "wear" on the hub, looks like it has a sorta of black "stripe" given IMHO by the contact with the seal. i cannot feel any pitting, it just something visible.
mmhh i may bring the trans to a shop just to sleep well :)

what kind of sealant should i use ? Yamabond ? what do you suggest ?

thanks
Marco
 
Marco, I thought I said no sealant. With the new hub gear, and new seal, you shouldn't have a problem there. Again, if lateral play in the shaft, that could be a problem. If you can't detect any, then it should be OK.
 
john zibell said:
Marco, I thought I said no sealant. With the new hub gear, and new seal, you shouldn't have a problem there. Again, if lateral play in the shaft, that could be a problem. If you can't detect any, then it should be OK.

No, sealant is required nor recommended

ops !! :oops: i am sorry...i was so tired last night i got it wrong..... :)
Ok, i got it, good that we are going to have a long week end.... hopefully i will be done soon....

thanks again, i will post some pics !!

Marco
 
ok, last night i got the parts and the tools, i got the clutch off and surprise !!!!

the clutch is brand spanking new.
Yes ,it looks New, covered of oil though.... :)
The engine seal look brand new as well....
I don't know anything about this bike , it looks well taken care.... it hasn't been running much though..

i took few pics, i am gonna post them later.... gotta go to work.... :D

Marco
 
Mi_ka said:
No way to clean them having them submerged into some cleaner and then dried in an oven or so?

When you consider the labor involved in getting to them, why take the risk. Any solvent strong enough to remove the oil, may very well damage the friction material.
 
In the old days carbon tetrachloride was the first thing you'd try - now I guess Acetone. Carbon Tet was amazing at dissolving oil but unfortunately carcinogenic. I've done so in my impecunious days and had some success.

In either case it is, as John says, not worth the chance. Removing the engine twice is major pain and the plates are not that dear.

I'd check the engine oil seal and cam plug while the engine is out using soapy water/pressurizing the crankcase to 3-5 psi while everything is apart. Also the two lower bolts on the main bearing carrier - they are drilled all the way through.

Do use a centering tool when you replace the plates - it is very easy to bend the intermediate plates. You can use the transmission hub and a long bolt.

ChrisR
 
....soooo the new clutch has been installed , thanks to the "special" tool to old the clutch in place...it took me 5 min to install everything.... :D
tomorrow i am going to install the gearbox.
I've got a question : where on the pushrod am i suppose to set the 2 seals ? I mean , are they go right after the trow out bearing assembly ? do they ( the seals ) have to be close to each others or do i have to leave some "room" in between ?
When i took the push rod off the gearbox they where far apart ( 1 inch ) each other.... i don't think is correct....
the manual i got doesn't show any pics...
Any help ?

thanks a lot..

i took a bunch of pics.... step by step, i am going to post them later... they might be useful for someone who will do it the first time...like me..

Thanks
Marco
 
Marco,

They should be at the bearing end. Touching each other, with the large end to the rear of the bike.
 
today i've finally got some time to upload few pics.
The tool to hold the clutch is a good thing to have, i would recommend it, i put the clutch on in five minutes. :D
 

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Then i put the swing arm first, then i slide in the rear drive shaft.

I got the swing arm powdercoated, and i did some polishing...( grearbox and bevel ) now look sooooo good !!
 

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I swapped the Bub sump with a stock one plus the spacer ( thanks to John for the advice...)
Here is a pic of the inside of my engine...everything looks clean...
And then a pic of the final result, sorry for the poor quality.... was too dark outside.
Tomorrow the test ride ! fingers crossed....


thanks to everyone for the precious advice , i had lot of fun working on a Guzzi for the first time.

Marco..
 

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I swapped the Bub sump with a stock one plus the spacer ( thanks to John for the advice...)
Here is a pic of the inside of my engine...everything looks clean...
And then a pic of the final result, sorry for the poor quality.... was too dark outside.
Tomorrow the test ride ! fingers crossed....


thanks to everyone for the precious advice , i had lot of fun working on a Guzzi for the first time.

Marco..

Any follow up? I'm going through what appears to be the same problem.
 
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