• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Clutch Wear Inspection

mg_sparky

mg_sparky

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
26
Location
San Diego, CA
For the Norge/Breva is there a way to check clutch wear/condition without removing the gearbox?

I'm well aware of the fact that the clutch well not need to be replaced for 100K or so. I'd like your thoughts on inspection techniques or tools you find useful.

Thanks in advance.
Kurt
 
Kurt,

Since the clutch is enclosed by the flywheel, there is no way to inspect the clutch plates without dis-assembly of the unit. In other words, only if the transmission is separated from the engine for some other reason.
 
the costly drawback of a modern guzzi cos the v is across the bike. I had my clutch replaced at 36k and the whole engine had to come out. I wondered if you supported the engine with a jack then took the swinging arm off, maybe you could unbolt the gearbox. It the sort of thing I'd like to do but the maintenance manual isn't detailed enough for me.
 
Norge and most Brevas have different clutches. Most Brevas have the tried-and-true Guzzi two-plate clutch. Norge has a new single-plate clutch, and there is very little real-world data on how long it will last.
 
Greg Field wrote:
Norge and most Brevas have different clutches. Most Brevas have the tried-and-true Guzzi two-plate clutch. Norge has a new single-plate clutch, and there is very little real-world data on how long it will last.
Click to expand...
The parts diagram I have for the Norge shows a two plate clutch. I thought that only the newest Norge's came with the single plate clutch. Is the diagram wrong?
 
According to my parts list Norges have the twin plater but our listing only goes up to the 2008 model as I don't think they bought in any this year. P'raps the new ones use the new single plater?

Pete
 
If Guzzi put in the same clutch they used on some of the EVs, I'm afraid they won't last too long. I've converted some from single to two plate as the single plate units only lasted about 15,000 miles.
 
A good friend from PA w/ 08 Norge, less than 10K mi on it had his clutch plates warp & come apart (twin plates), fixed at FBF under warranty, picked it up & headed to OH rally, didn't get far, took to another dealer in PA, they pulled it apart and found 1 clutch plate w/rivets ground off & apart and the other one w/ deformed rivets doing the same thing.

This is the first I have heard of anything going wrong w/Norge clutches!

But, then again, I do not keep up w/ all the forums out here
 
All this discussion of failing clutches makes me wonder how many of you have dropped the engine to inspect the clutch?

Kurt
 
mg_sparky wrote:
All this discussion of failing clutches makes me wonder how many of you have dropped the engine to inspect the clutch?

Kurt
Click to expand...

That is too much work to do if there aren't any symptoms. Why look for something to be wrong if it is working!! If all is OK, yu can induce a failure by checking it. Saw that allot in teh military,they do so much "preventive maintenance" the item getsw worn out inspecitng ans servicing everything. Follow RCM (Reliability Centered Maintenance), if you can inspect it, do that e.g. tire wear, if you can predict the failure, replace just before failure e.g. spark plugs with over 12,000 miles may fail so replace at 12,000 miles, if you can't see it or predict it, run it until failure e.g. clutch.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top