• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

cooler running = differnt weight oil

W

Wistrick

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
128
Location
Pendleton, OR
I was wondering if now that I have the Ecu reflash (on its way to Todd) and PCV which I have heard will lower the head temp almost 40 degrees if maybe I can run a more common oil weight like say 20/50...Or is there another reason besides temp that MG recommends such a heavy oil. I know I know an oil thread

Dan
 
I can't imagine any other reason for a 10-60. Around here, 15-50 at around 9 bux a quart costs the same as 10-60 though..
 
its not only cost but availability of 10/60 in my part of the world...I can get 20/50 all day long due to Harleys using it...

Dan
 
I have no comment on 20-50 vs 10-60, thought for myself despite having PCV & ECU reflash on my Norge I will continue to use 10-60 merely because it is specified by Guzzi. As for availability, you clearly have internet access & do you live somewhere UPS or similar does not deliver? That's how I get my Motorex, bought by the case to minimize shipping costs. Stuff doesn't go bad sitting in the garage. If I were on the road somewhere & needed to, would have no problem topping off with 20/50 full synthetic rather than letting it be low.
 
but does Guzzi spec it cause of the high operating temp of these engines, and if so dropping the temp 40 degrees would 10/60 still flow well enough to protect vital parts....Nobody has ever answered the question as to why the gooses need 10/60 and every other air cooled vtwin is either 10/40 or 20/50... Hell why do BMW sport cars call for it????

Dan
 
Pete Roper did a whole thing on why the new 8v motor needs heavier weight oil. Not sure which Griso you have but I have been running quality 20/50 in my 2v since day one.
 
Wistrick said:
but does Guzzi spec it cause of the high operating temp of these engines, and if so dropping the temp 40 degrees would 10/60 still flow well enough to protect vital parts....Nobody has ever answered the question as to why the gooses need 10/60 and every other air cooled vtwin is either 10/40 or 20/50... Hell why do BMW sport cars call for it????

Dan
Click to expand...


Since the "10" part of 10/60 is lower than the "20" part of 20/50 seems apparant to me that the 10/60 is at least as if not more capable of handling a wider range of temps at BOTH ends than 20/50. You can hypothesize all you want, experiment all you want with your motor. As to why Guzzi specifies 10/60 I don't know, I don't have the expertise in that field, but since they designed it I will assume they know better than you or me until I have actual reasons (other than speculation) to believe otherwise-especially since 10/60 is so easily obtainable on line, & since the cost of oil that is changed only every 6000 miles is completley trivial compared to the cost of engine parts & the cost to replace them. And if in fact our motors post mods are now running 40 degrees cooler, I would regard the higher temp handling capabilities of 10/60 vs 20/50 as simply an extra margin for handling rare but real extreme conditions such as an air cooled motor idling in heavy traffic for extended periods under extremely high ambient temps. To me that is far more valuable than saving trivial amounts of $ by trying to use a slightly cheaper oil.
 
First, I gotta say I don't care what oil anybody else runs. I only worry about what I use in my vehicles.
Second, when someone posts a question about something, like in this case oil, I try to offer what I know or what I have experienced that may help answer their question.
But to answer their question by saying that Guzzi spec'd this weight oil so it must be for a reason and using anything else would be wrong..... well, that sheds no light on the question in my book. In fact I have to wonder if we are talking about the same Guzzi that spec'd all kinds of stupid sh!t in the past that loving owners have had to undo to get their Guzzis to run as they were meant to.
Why would someone use a 20/50 instead of a 10/60? Well first let me point out again that the 8 valve motors are different then the 2 valve motors. My 2 valve motor came from the factory with 20/50 in it (at least that is what was spec'd at the time by Guzzi) and I have continued to use (quality) 20/50 in it with zero issues that are oil related. A 20/50 will, on average, flow better through the motor when hot and remove more heat from hot parts then a 10/60 oil. The 10/60 only has advantages when the temp goes above what the 20/50 is made to handle. Does that happen in a Guzzi motor and will it not happen after upgrading with Todds kit? F* if I know.
Personally, I pay more attention to the specs the oil meets then whether it is the same weight as what the manual says.
For example, some 10/60 oil that is popular with some people is designed and made for cars, not motorcycles. Now, if you choose to put that oil in your Guzzi, I don't care (see line one), but I would rather put oil made for my motorcycle in my motorcycle. Even if it costs more money, because as mentioned the cost of an oil change with quality oil is nothing compared to the cost of a dead motor. And by the way, oil ratings are a lot like tire width ratings. Actual flow and performance abilities vary between different brand oils of the same grade.
Feel free to read up on it and form your own opinions.

To the OP, measure oil temp and see what you get. Or try 20/50 and check it after a little while to see if it is breaking down too fast or not. Part of it may be where you live and the climate you ride in. I live somewhere it often gets above 90 degrees F during the summer, but I try to avoid riding when it is that hot.

I hope this adds positive info to the discussion and not pisses to many people off. Oil threads can do that.

Duck and cover.
 
is 10/60 spec'ed due to heat??...if so then cooler running equals different oil....thats all I am saying....Guzzi are mostly gas cooled not air, and run hot to due Euro III emissions...So fix the lean condition and low engine temps...Sounds logical to me....

ducking........

Dan
 
*disclaimer - i'm not an engineer*

here's my two cents.. if you're in fact significantly reducing engine temperatures, theoretically I guess you could go to a lighter oil.. but I'd think you need to carefully monitor engine oil temperatures (idling in traffic, high ambient temperatures, extended runs into high revs).

Wistrick said:
Guzzi are mostly gas cooled not air
Click to expand...

also, you could call any engine fuel (gas) cooled, but our Guzzi's do use air cooling.. that's what the "cooling fins" around the engine are for.. some of the newer guzzi's are oil cooled (check the Griso's oil heat exchanger).

For what it's worth, I found this informative: http://www.americanagip.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=11

-Phil
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top