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Cracked Cal 14 Exhaust Parts

We'll see if it can be welded back together locally first.
I've tried that for many years, and it's most always a temporary fix. It's why I got into building exhaust components. Just FYI.
 
Thanks Todd! I've heard nothing but good things about your products and I just might take you up on that. We'll see if it can be welded back together locally first. I'd really like to put your full exhaust and remapping system on the bike but it's just not in the budget right now.:(
I admire your willingness to pull it off and get it welded. If I was younger, I'd probably do the same thing. :)
Unfortunately, several bikes and years later, exhaust repairs have always turned out to be more work and finally more money in the end.
 
I agree. It's never worked for me having the pipes welded. They tend to fail next to the repair.
Mine hasn't cracked yet , but I have one of Todds H pipes for when it does.

Insurance
 
Interesting... Question... Do all of you that have experienced this exhaust issue run the stock mufflers (at least until this header leak happened)? If not, with what and when were they replaced? I'm becoming convinced the cause is the evidently excessive mass/weight of the catalytic converter equipped stock mufflers. The weight making it difficult for the factory engineers to come up with a cost effective fix....

I put a pair of Mistrals on my 2014 California Custom at about 1100 miles. They are probably a third of the weight of the stock exhaust. The at-idle vibration of over an inch with the stock mufflers is now maybe 1/4" to negligible. And I've not had a cracking/crossover problem at all. Oh, 6300 miles to date. I know, not much, but at least half of these problems I've read about happened well before that second service milestone...
 
Hi
Mine just broke this weekend (17000 Km on it) I did a 600 km day trip. After 2h in the trip I noticed it sounded different, but nothing very loud so I figured I would check it out when I get back. 3h later "SERVICE" came on, the bike had high RPM's in idle, burning more gas and I only could start the bike when it was in neutral. I found the crossover cracked on the right side. I assume all the symptoms I just described are due to the exhaust crossover failure (please correct me if I'm wrong)
Todd I like what I read about your H-Pipe Crossover.
After cutting out the cracked crossover - How is your new H-Pipe Crossover reattached ???.
And do I have to have the Dealer look after the "service" light - RPM's - etc. OR will it all go away after the H-Pipe Crossover is replaced ??

Thanks
Mark
 
Todd I like what I read about your H-Pipe Crossover.
After cutting out the cracked crossover - How is your new H-Pipe Crossover reattached ???.
And do I have to have the Dealer look after the "service" light - RPM's - etc. OR will it all go away after the H-Pipe Crossover is replaced ??
Thanks. Purchase info here; https://gtmotocycles.com/products/california-1400-gtm-h-pipe
Per earlier in this post, once you cut, you slip mine on and use the supplied clamps to the stock headers, with the mufflers fitting the same as stock. You will likely have to visit a dealer to have the service light codes cleared and reset.
 
Many of these have been replaced under the normal manufacturer's warranty with no hassle to speak of from Piaggo. As this is part of an emission control system, it may still be covered even outside the official warranty period (at least here in the US). Anyone reading tried this approach with an out of warranty bike??
 
Could the exhaust crossover failure be blamed for the "service"icon, high RPM's in idle, burning more gas and I can only start the bike when it is in neutral, OR it's something else on top of that?
What you think ?
Thanks
Mark
 
Thanks. Purchase info here; https://gtmotocycles.com/products/california-1400-gtm-h-pipe
Per earlier in this post, once you cut, you slip mine on and use the supplied clamps to the stock headers, with the mufflers fitting the same as stock. You will likely have to visit a dealer to have the service light codes cleared and reset.

Todd,

I notice that the "H-Pipe" does not have a clamp on the cross-over pipe. Is the intention that the two sections simply slide together and leak as needed? If so, fine. If not, I may be missing a clamp...

image.jpg
 
Todd,

I notice that the "H-Pipe" does not have a clamp on the cross-over pipe. Is the intention that the two sections simply slide together and leak as needed? If so, fine. If not, I may be missing a clamp...

image.jpg

In lieu of Todd perhaps not being able to reply, I can assure you that yes, it is designed to "auto align" and there are no clamps missing.
 
Could the exhaust crossover failure be blamed for the "service"icon, high RPM's in idle, burning more gas and I can only start the bike when it is in neutral, OR it's something else on top of that?
What you think ?
Thanks
Mark


No. That is your clutch switch. Mine did the same thing.
 
In lieu of Todd perhaps not being able to reply, I can assure you that yes, it is designed to "auto align" and there are no clamps missing.
Thanks Dave.
No center clamp by design, and it is designed to move/float as needed. There will be no leaks. Only critical point for leaks is into the header at the head, and the end of the muffler is a giant leak.
 
Thanks Dave.
No center clamp by design, and it is designed to move/float as needed. There will be no leaks. Only critical point for leaks is into the header at the head, and the end of the muffler is a giant leak.

LOL! Yes, the outlet of the muffler is indeed a major leak source! (funny guy...)

Okay, I thought the intention was for the two sections of the crossover section to float. You confirmed it.
 
2015 1400 touring an elderly thread and postings. Horrible clanking and rattle yep I am a victim. Still have the MFR warranted and In the 1400 goes. I do hope the MFR replacement parts last more than 10 k miles. I really do like the Offerings here. I shall keep a weather eye on the repair.
 
Todd,

My cross-over failed at 10,800 miles and is need of replacement via welding, your "H" Pipe, or complete new "Full 1400 Header System.

Even after reading all of the posts, I am not sure if the OEM header pipe, once cut to length, is a slip on, or slip in, fit to your mfg'd "H" Pipe. Appears for the photos that the heat shield can be remounted after the "H" Pipe is installed, true?

Finally, does the "Full 1400 Header System allow for the heat sheild to be attached?

Thanks for your talents and your efforts.
 
I have a question especially for the Eldo owners....has this problem been faced by any of the Eldos? I have Agostini pipes... are those heavier than the originals and are all Calis fated to have this failure? Are there any precautions one can take to avoid this? After a long ride when I put the bike on the stand with the motor running I start to hear some tin/rattling noise especially from the right hand side. Is this how it starts? I only have 2000 kms on it....
 
My cross-over failed at 10,800 miles and is need of replacement via welding, your "H" Pipe, or complete new "Full 1400 Header System.
Even after reading all of the posts, I am not sure if the OEM header pipe, once cut to length, is a slip on, or slip in, fit to your mfg'd "H" Pipe. Appears for the photos that the heat shield can be remounted after the "H" Pipe is installed, true?
Finally, does the "Full 1400 Header System allow for the heat sheild to be attached?
Email is best for these type of questions, though they are all answered here on the Forum and product pages.
H-pipe;


My Full system does not use any (horrible) shields (see gallery images);


IMG 0540
 
I have a question especially for the Eldo owners....has this problem been faced by any of the Eldos? I have Agostini pipes... are those heavier than the originals and are all Calis fated to have this failure? Are there any precautions one can take to avoid this? After a long ride when I put the bike on the stand with the motor running I start to hear some tin/rattling noise especially from the right hand side. Is this how it starts?
I haven't compared part #'s, but visually it seems the exhaust are identical, so I expect they too will crack. Most aftermarket mufflers (outside of the LaFranconis, which are the same), are much lighter, but that isn't the issue. It's materials and (poor) manufacturing of the stock headers and balance pipe 'H.' No precautions to be had. Rattling is likely just something loose. The bolts in the shields can come loose. Poor running and popping through the exhaust is a result of a cracked H (outside of uncorrected fueling when changing the mufflers).
 
I have a question especially for the Eldo owners....has this problem been faced by any of the Eldos? I have Agostini pipes... are those heavier than the originals and are all Calis fated to have this failure? Are there any precautions one can take to avoid this? After a long ride when I put the bike on the stand with the motor running I start to hear some tin/rattling noise especially from the right hand side. Is this how it starts? I only have 2000 kms on it....

When the exhaust on my California broke, it was pretty clear that is happened. Riding, I heard a noticeable noise (like a hole in the exhaust pipe) coming from the left-hand side of the bike. Ironically, it actually broke at the H-connection on the right-hand side. Another symptom was rattling of the heat shield. I think this might have been due to the break allowing the muffler/exhaust pipe being permitted to move more due to the break.

I did purchase Todd's replacement H-pipe but have not yet installed it. My broken exhaust was re-welded and is still holding as of this date. WHEN the other side breaks or the repaired side breaks again, I am all set to install Todd's solution.
 
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