bluesman Guzzi
Tuned and Synch'ed
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2009
- Messages
- 29
Hi, I`m not sure I`ll get a response here after my (regrettable) disagreements with some of the stalwart members here, but here goes in the hope that we all advance our knowledge.
My bike, a Nevada Club, LAPD, call it what you will, suddenly ran very lean and hot, dangerously lean in fact, plug chops revealed white plugs in all throttle ranges.
I`d previously had the carbs off to clean and free off the chokes pistons, messed one up by trying to push the choke piston through from underneath, so replaced the carb body on that side. Naturally I assumed that human error was responsible for the sudden poor running of the bike so stripped the carbs again 4 more times hoping to see where I`d gone wrong, but nothing there. I checked thoroughly for vacuum leaks, nothing there either.
Looking online to find out the jetting for the Nevada 750 I could only find this for the listing, 102 main, 36 idle 266T atomiser, X8 needle 3rd notch and slide 40, and began to wonder why my carbs were jetted so lean. If I compared my carbs set up of 105 main, 32 idle, 264T aromiser, X88 needle 4th notch, and a 50 slide. I`d changed the mains to 135`s to account for straight through "safety" pipes and the air filter system for a couple of foam pods.
I was questioning this set up here at guzzi tech and fell out with a couple of people because I disagreed with their diagnosis of my situation. I was a pain in the ass with it too, admittedly, but I was saying that I felt it must be the manufacturer`s spec as surely nobody would make such changes for any modifications, making it leaner, why would someone do that I exclaimed.
I was told I had it set up far too lean and in danger of damaging the engine. I knew this just couldn`t be the fault as the bike had been running exceptionally well over the past 18months with 2 European trips undertaken. Something had to have changed. I`m not a complete idiot though and I know a good running engine from a bad one, and something had changed considerably.
Despite this, I bit the bullet and bought the richer stock set up mentioned above. This took the white appearance off the plugs, but the bike still runs horribly and is very uneven through the throttle range.
However yesterday I found this in a manual online, its the carb specs for the Nevada 750 club and now know for sure that the set up was correct for my bike after all.
Carburetor data
Venturi (Ø 30 mm)
Throttle valve 50
Atomizer 264 T1
Main jet 105
Idle jet 32
Starter jet 60
Needle X 88 (4th notch)
Float 9,5 g
Idle screw adjustment: open 1 and 1/2 turns approx
So I`m back to where I started, though I have considerably less cash than when I started.
So now I`m looking at the ignition side of things.
I cant see it being the coils as I doubt they`d both go and would expect that to affect one side only if one coil goes bad.
The only thing left I feel is the digiplex electronic timing unit. I`m thinking it must be significantly over advancing the timing and thus running the engine very hot, does that make any sense to those experienced with the digiplex?
I always thought if they failed the bike simply wouldn`t run, but I just cant put it down to anything else.
Anyway I`m off to my mate`s workshop this afternoon to check the timing and take it from there.
I`m wondering if a points conversion is possible on this bike, would anyone happen to know?
Thanks, Martin
My bike, a Nevada Club, LAPD, call it what you will, suddenly ran very lean and hot, dangerously lean in fact, plug chops revealed white plugs in all throttle ranges.
I`d previously had the carbs off to clean and free off the chokes pistons, messed one up by trying to push the choke piston through from underneath, so replaced the carb body on that side. Naturally I assumed that human error was responsible for the sudden poor running of the bike so stripped the carbs again 4 more times hoping to see where I`d gone wrong, but nothing there. I checked thoroughly for vacuum leaks, nothing there either.
Looking online to find out the jetting for the Nevada 750 I could only find this for the listing, 102 main, 36 idle 266T atomiser, X8 needle 3rd notch and slide 40, and began to wonder why my carbs were jetted so lean. If I compared my carbs set up of 105 main, 32 idle, 264T aromiser, X88 needle 4th notch, and a 50 slide. I`d changed the mains to 135`s to account for straight through "safety" pipes and the air filter system for a couple of foam pods.
I was questioning this set up here at guzzi tech and fell out with a couple of people because I disagreed with their diagnosis of my situation. I was a pain in the ass with it too, admittedly, but I was saying that I felt it must be the manufacturer`s spec as surely nobody would make such changes for any modifications, making it leaner, why would someone do that I exclaimed.
I was told I had it set up far too lean and in danger of damaging the engine. I knew this just couldn`t be the fault as the bike had been running exceptionally well over the past 18months with 2 European trips undertaken. Something had to have changed. I`m not a complete idiot though and I know a good running engine from a bad one, and something had changed considerably.
Despite this, I bit the bullet and bought the richer stock set up mentioned above. This took the white appearance off the plugs, but the bike still runs horribly and is very uneven through the throttle range.
However yesterday I found this in a manual online, its the carb specs for the Nevada 750 club and now know for sure that the set up was correct for my bike after all.
Carburetor data
Venturi (Ø 30 mm)
Throttle valve 50
Atomizer 264 T1
Main jet 105
Idle jet 32
Starter jet 60
Needle X 88 (4th notch)
Float 9,5 g
Idle screw adjustment: open 1 and 1/2 turns approx
So I`m back to where I started, though I have considerably less cash than when I started.
So now I`m looking at the ignition side of things.
I cant see it being the coils as I doubt they`d both go and would expect that to affect one side only if one coil goes bad.
The only thing left I feel is the digiplex electronic timing unit. I`m thinking it must be significantly over advancing the timing and thus running the engine very hot, does that make any sense to those experienced with the digiplex?
I always thought if they failed the bike simply wouldn`t run, but I just cant put it down to anything else.
Anyway I`m off to my mate`s workshop this afternoon to check the timing and take it from there.
I`m wondering if a points conversion is possible on this bike, would anyone happen to know?
Thanks, Martin